Alignment specs wandering on road

2018 dclb 5100 all around. 0 setting on fronts with 884 coils. This is the specs as it sits now. Truck drives pretty good compared to stock. Seems like the crown in the road has more affect now than before and I have to compensate the wheel a little more while at higher speeds. Any ideas on what to ask for spec wise. Alignment shop is willing to do what I request. Oh tires and wheels are 265/75/17 ko2’s on 17” ray10’s. Thanks guys

 

You'd be better off looking state wide for that. Every state is different. My alignment would be different than yours, as I live in Maine, and well.... Going around an outside corner in the road = rolling over due to how drastic our crowns are, VS say Connecticut where the crown is barely noticeable.

 

Assuming your still stock uca’s....get them to give you as much positive caster as possible (hopefully more than +2.5) while keeping camber and toe in factory spec.

 

This

 

Will do. Thanks guys

 

Just an FYI for you. My stock height Tacoma has left side caster set at 1.6 degrees and the right side at 2.1 degrees (Hunter wheel aligner). That 1/2 degree difference is recommended to help the vehicle drive straight on high crowned roads. This difference may be what you need. Your numbers indicate only 0.1 degree difference and it's on the wrong side. My truck drives and tracks like a dream with no abnormal tire wear. Even with the lift this may help you too. Check with your alignment guy for your case. The range is 1.3 to 2.8 degrees for a stock truck by the way.

 

Thank you will do. It definitely pulls a little harder to the right on higher crowned roads. On level ground it drives straight

 

It's worth asking at least. Good luck.

 

Why 884's

 

Because I didn’t want to really lift the truck. Just level it the proper way.

 

Ah okay

 

I have a dclb with 884 , my caster is set at 1.7 and it tracks good to me . The numbers actually look good . Oh i have .5 camber both sides .

 

I think the biggest thing throwing me off is the big difference in offset from the factory wheels to the ray10’s. I’m sure that has something to do with the slight bump steer and tracking difference. Could be wrong though.

 

Yes...
You can see the additional scrub pulling your toe out(negative toe). Needs to be aligned with toe in (positive toe)

 

So what specs are you suggesting. How much positive toe and caster? I’m assuming camber should be 0.

 

Caster +2.5
Camber +0.5
Toe +0.6

 

Ok I’ll try that.

 

I’m just trying to understand this. Your saying with the wheel and tire I’m running that a +0.5 camber and +0.6 toe will equal a zero on both while on the road? And should all three specs be equal on both sides or compensate some for crown?

 

Yes...and the more scrub and caster you add the greater the change in camber and toe.
To compensate for road crown, I'd go +0.6 driver's side and +0.4 passenger side on the camber.

 

Great thanks I’ll try this out Friday.