Remotely opening the rear window

This may be unreasonable/impossible, but is there a way to remotely open the rear window of the third gens? I have a compustar FMX remote start and a saw the auxiliary capabilities so it got me thinking. It would be nice to be able to grab something from the cab when boondocking in the short bed. Or discreetly and uncomfortably get from the bed to the drivers set while boondocking.

 

Patiently waiting for an answer too...

 

I would think you could patch/tap into the open/close switch for the window to the auxiliary feature on the remote. It would probably need to be moved to a constant on/power unless you start or put the truck in to on mode to get power to the switch.

 

You can go for the super-cheap kludge, wedge a stick against the rear window button. When you hit the remote start, the window will open...

 

Jimmy's (@jayrobot) working on some remote capabilities like that, not sure where on the list the rear window falls. But it's all possible through his remote starter.

Worth hanging out on this thread to see where they take it

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-mt-smart-module.568990/page-50#post-19541929

 

Thanks Antoin. Currently collaborating with @mattgecko to bring you phone app controlled bed lights. The same app that most have on thier 3X Remote Starters from 12VS or me. Also working on independent pop n lock tailgate control via phone app so those with tonneau covers can use thier truck bed as a safe that cannot be unlocked from the main cabin in the case of break in. You’ll be able to leave your car keys in and go hiking, surfing, or when hitting the slopes. Or use it as a safe/locker when storing expensive tools/laptops and other valuable goods overnight such as when traveling, or parked at a friends house on the street in an unknown area overnight.

I can easily do the window slide but only for the vehicles equipped with power sliding rears. The reason it’s not high on the list is because of demand. This is niche, not a very common need for most. Plus my focus is tailored on ease of install and plug n play. This is not only low demand, but may be complicated for some. You’d be surprised but crimping and splicing intimidates a lot more folk than we’d like to think. But if you want this custom solution, I can always visit it for you during some downtime. It’s not hard, would just have to route the auxiliary output from the starter, through a pulse to held high timer latching-polarity reversing relay. However, if the starter auxiliary wasn’t activated at programming andnwjen flashed or is assigned as a different function, you would have to know. I don’t sell compustar even though I have access to the line through my vendors.

The easiest way would be to tap the same wires at the dash from behind the OEM switch and run it back outside to the truck bed to a switch that has the same function as OEM that you can mount somewhere in your bed or anywhere you desire. Since this only operates when the key is in ACC mode, you wouldn’t have to worry that anyone can use this switch when the vehicle is off.

 

Throw a few thousand at a good installer. You will have your remote window. Easy peasy. Depends on how bad you want it.

 

I didn't want to scare him but I don't need a few thousand to achieve this...I can do it for less, way less. @Rob94 , PM me if you're serious about this and what your budget is. I do custom automation and applications. Your job is to dream it up, mine is to turn it into reality. I can come up with a solution within your budget, there are many ways to go about this. I already have two ways on how to do this and send you a prototype interface that can be as plug n play as possible. You would need to be comfortable with only tapping a few wires and/or crimping depending on what you want. This isn't something I would mass produce, it would be a @Rob94 exclusive.

 

The switch is only active with the ignition on. You have to 5 wire the motor wires. You’ll need 2 relays or a module like a

$16 directed 451m dooor lock relay module

directed 451m. You’ll have to use a compustar programmer to enable the aux outputs, or a web link updated and enable them that way. Not sure exactly what remote you have for your remote starter. You would need a 4 button. The down side is when enabling the outputs a single press of the trunk or start button activates the outputs. So it’s easier to accidentally bump them in your pocket or something. Materials are only a few dollars. However if you don’t know what you’re doing I wouldn’t recommend anyone trying it themselves. I was a 12v installer for 14 years

 

Exactly what I was thinking. I remember back in the day before the 451 came out having to wire up relays for 5 wire locks and doing windows/sunroofs. Things changed when viper came out with the 4button remote.

 

He can use a wireless relay with its own fob, the RF short range type used for say Christmas lights, but DC IN/OUT obviously, wire to an ACC power source, use a diode and operate it that way. I would think he would want to only activate it with ACC mode so there are no said pocket accidents. If not, tap a constant source to the relay, but he would need a polarity switching relay with timer so it’s not held high/latched when it reaches end of stroke/hard stop. It’s not an ON/OFF operation, its a two I put (each momentary held down) to power the trigger input on the relay until it slides as desired one way, hold down the other momentary, relay switches polarity because that’s how the motor actuator works, when doing fwd or rev.

 

Why would you want to go all the trouble of extra components and carrying another additional remote when the OP not only could, but stated he wanted to use his Compustar’s aux feature?

 

Forgive my insolence, but what is boondocking? I get the sense that this is a southern thing that I need to be a part of.

 

Boondocking is free camping, generally out in the boondocks, see -> https://www.boondocking.org/

 

Ah. I've been calling that dispersed camping, but now I have a new and better word for it.

 

Does the aux have a dedicated button on the FOB? If so then I’m with you. I access my aux via smart phone app by adding the respective buttons within the app that trigger those aux outputs but didn’t see if he had smart phone control and even more so those abilities if he did. Maybe I missed the details somewhere? To use aux you need an input condition, where would that be on his setup? If OEM FOB is there a sequence of presses that’s initiates a particular aux output for him?

 

No dedicated button on the fob. Enabling the aux the truck and start button become the aux. so to start for instance you press and hold for 3.5 seconds. To active the aux you would just tap the same. Same thing with truck and the other aux. Using the Drone mobile, you’d have an aux 1 and 2 button on the app. The Aux channels are all programmable. You can select the wire and the type of output function (pulse, latched, timed...ect) You can’t enable the aux using only OEM control. You will only get the lock 3x feature, or lock/unlock/lock if you set it that way instead. They have 7 aux outputs but you can only use them with a LCD remote. Not sure how you active all the other channels. I think you can do multiple button presses for different aux channels.

 

Pretty much the same, via RF FOB kit add on, or smart phone interface module, are where the buttons can be pressed. But they are momentary so you still need a momentary to polarity switching relay that toggles polarity on the same momentary relay input press if you want it to be clean in the phone app (one button) or else you’re using two dedicated buttons on the smart phone and two relay sets with reversed polarity outputs in parallel as described because most customers of mine don’t use the RF kit when they can just use thier OEM FOB, most use the smart phone and app add on. I just haven’t tested if HOLDING down the phone app aux button keeps it active until released. I figured they’re rising edge input triggers. Would be nice if they were because then it would be like jogging a motor one way and then the other. If they’re rising edge, then they also need to be timed so they aren’t high against the hardstop indefinerlty as that can’t be good for the motor. It’ll burn up eventually.