1st Gen Tacoma 12" OSR Outboard Shock Relocation - Outside Frame Rails

You could definitely utilize a bypass in the rear of a Tacoma like this. None of use here are trying to build full blown race trucks, but my setup, and definitely Monty's could both benefit from a well tuned bypass. You just tune it at it's loaded weight.

IMO the compression clickers are kind of a gimmick. Tune the shocks how you will use them (loaded) and be happy. Even if you never touch them again once they're dialed, there's still a ton of benefit.

That's like sayong there's no benefit of a King 2.5 over a regular Bilstein 5100. Sure there is.

 

Have you ever run hard enough to get shock fade? Melted the seals out of your 2.5 shocks? Have you installed temp strips to verify what temps your running and if a second shock is even needed besides saying you have them?

Why were bypasses tubes added to shocks starting in the 70's? External adjustments while doing a test and tune or during the race. Some Herbst/Smith TT shocks had solid pistons and all the damp was adjusted with the bypass tubes, not the case with current King/ADS/ect bypass shocks on the market.

A proper valved 2.0 remote resi shock on the rear of 95% of the weekend warriors on TW will keep up with bolt on front LT kits and non tuned 2.5 shocks. Until someone runs temp strips and actually can get there shocks to the 250F range to melt buna seals I stand by this statement.

What your describing is a smooth body shock just like what you have. The bypass tubes add the smallest amount of fluid but the main benefit is external adjustments on the fly on in race cars. I have revalved more 2.0 and 2.5 smooth body shocks that run circles around off the shelf bypasses because no one opens them up to make changes that matter. It's always just turning tubes with no rhyme or reason and there vehicles still ride like hammered dog shit and they don't know why.

Comp adjuster most definitely work and make a difference, I have had all brands open and inspected/rebuild them. They best on the market is going to be the Fox DSC which can be added to any remote resi shock on the market. The second benefit of them is spreading the heat load into the resi to combat shock fade. It's like having that second shock without the expense. A King 2.5 IBP with comp adjuster and a quality foam/rubber bump stop with proper tuning will be adjustable from empty to loaded and run circles around any off the shelf double bypass. And the resi are also usually more accessible than bypass tubes are in this application and a smooth body shock is much easier to package between the frame and tire.

Also this info is pertaining to this and mostly 2nd/turd gen rear shock relocate kits, Links/backhalfs and proper caged prerunners don't apply.

I'm not at all comparing a 2.5 shock to a 5100, the 5165's maybe be.

 

I'm thoroughly enjoying this thread.

 

So am I and cant wait to get my hands on a set

 

outboard shock mounts are definitely the way to go

 

So not trying to bring the hate but just curious. Is there that much improvement moving the shock outside the frame oppose to running them next to the spring in the same direction but inside the frame? All things being equal. As in no wider stance from spaces ext.

 

Yes. Better performance due to decreased angle and leverage (closer to axle ends), and allows for the fitment of a longer shock for increased range of travel.

 

You can pretty easily fit a long enough shock under the bed to utilize the full range of motion from any springs using the stock mounting points.

 

The point of bypasses is to have different zones of damping through the range of travel... it’s not to add fluid capacity or on the fly tuning, though it does do both.

I agree the new IBP technology is the way to go, but only if you want a single compression zone, and a single rebound zone in addition.

A well tuned leaf sprung bilstein will run circles around a shitty linked bypass/coilover truck until it fades, but that’s not what we’re talking about.

 

Yes, but the closer to vertical you can get a shock the more effective it is, and the easier it will be to tune. Also, by moving both shocks to the front of the axle, you gain additional control.

Keeping them inboard isn’t wrong if you’re just looking to crawl, but there’s good improvement to be had at speed with them going outboard.

 

interesting; so what's the max travel you can get from springs using the stock mounts? in the 3rd gen 4Runner world (short links & panhard), outboarding allows for greater range of travel without sacrificing uptravel

 

Putting the shocks outboard, you can mount a universal 12" racing shock, and not a short body, while keeping about as much bump travel as stock. Seems like off the shelf springs max around 10-11" travel, but some folks run 63/64" Chevy springs, or you can always have a custom leaf pack built.

 

so, if you're using all of the stroke, that's around 14" or so at that angle, no?

(also always use a short body)

 

I doubt 14" with a 12" shock, maybe 1/2" to 1" extra. That angle isn't necessarily required either, where the tower will be mounted is up to installer, it can float and be more vertical

 

You can keep you shocks pretty vertical, inboard, under the bed and still have a pretty good all around setup. Not just for crawling, I drive fast too. That being said, I didn't mention outboarding in my last post as I was only addressing the travel claim. You can get a 2.5x10 under the bed, which is plenty long for stock leaf geometry.

9"-10" or so depending on leafs. Leafs are very different from the 4r setup.

 

of course they are. that's why I mentioned that in my post.

are you sure that's as much travel as you can get with leafs in the stock mounting arrangement? that's no more travel than the front is capable of..

 

This is exactly what a double bypass is, 1 comp tube and 1 rebound tube. Off the shelf double bypass layout won't be any benefit in this application. You will be riding in the middle of the tubes and depending on leafs and how bump stops are set up you may never get past the upper compression port to utilize the "bump zone."

If you want a double bypass to work in this application you will want a 1" dia rebound tube and a very small .75" dia that will be used in the last 30% of the up travel. All very custom and not worth the trouble when you can use IBP and a comp adjuster to achieve the same with better packaging.

I'm waiting for the rubber covered shock pics to show up!

I just put together some 12" Icon's with the manifold resi outlet like the current T4R or Tacoma 2.5's. that creates a very tunable (via piston shims) bump zone and when combined with a comp adjuster will be overall tunable depending on load out or terrain. I still have to pull the old SAW's and test fit for resi placement and to adjust the shock mounts.

 

crazy, I didn’t know there was space for that

 

I'm not picking on your install or setup, it looks good. However, the reason you can fit those straight up without bottoming out is that you have your bumps on a 3" tall spacer. The Archive kit is designed to allow full bump travel, so the the spacer stand wouldn't be necessary, which I believe is only possible with shocks outboard or through the bed.

EDIT: AND you have welded lower eyes (which add money + time initially and during rebuild, and King's often need new shafts during rebuild)

 

My leafs already bump slightly negative. I would consider that full bump travel.