Skootter14's S/C’d Locked Long Bed Sport

hahahahaha I'm not a "purest" by any means, but that just seems wrong to put a toyota in a chevy. Plus I've heard and read a lot about how resilient these 350's are. Regardless of what I do power-wise down the road, I want to get the original motor running just because its the original. Even if I swap it, I'll still keep the motor in the garage.

 

so, as I continue to research (thats all I am doing right now it would seem, the wife hates it haha) I BELIEVE the L48 was 180hp and the L82 was 195. Please dont take anything I say as gospel as I'm new to all this. As I was talking with my uncle about this motor, he explained that once he had it rebuilt and modified back in '85, although it is an L48, it is closer NOW power-wise to an L82. I read somewhere that these 350's can handle like 330hp (??) so I would like to get it running again and then see what I can do to get power up in this original motor (cost vs benefit though) before I move to something like a crate motor with 430 hp (keeping the xmsn in mind so I dont end up getting 2 before this is all over).

EDIT: I know it has a mild cam upgraded and I think he also did the carbs and intake.

 

Well since you wont' SAS the truck... SAS the vette!

Like this

 

...thats what you want to contribute to this. . . . haha

the suspension is one of the things I am SERIOUSLY dreading. The corvette suspension seems to be a known finicky and troublesome area. We'll see just how bad it is once I get it in my garage and lifted off the ground

 

Quick google says the 1979 C3's with L48s made 185hp and the L82 made 220hp. The 75-77 year models had the L48 at 180hp. But I am by no means a Vette guy so who knows

You can get any amount of power you could possibly want out of a Small Block. Just takes money

The L48 is a 2 bolt main engine so you wont make crazy power out of it but itll handle ~400hp just fine. Just dont run it at high RPMs. RPMs tend to kill engines more than just raw hp. And even then it comes down to stock crank, pistons, ect being part of the issue (at over 400hp and high rpms). This is assuming N/A and not turbo/supercharged as well. Also depends how yo uare running it too. Doing 1/4 mile pulls is going t0 kill it long before just a "weekend warrior" car.

As for the suspension...Im sure it just needs all the basics done and itll be fine (ball joints, new shocks, new springs, ect)

 

Makes sense; I could have easily mixed up numbers...Ive read too many too close together recently. I do know they didnt come super high hp off the lot though. And the plan is for it to be more of a weekend car once complete; i could also see myself wanting to maximize output though as this thing starts to come together

 

Even 180 back then was a decent hp number. Wont find to many other cars with much higher. Even the Ford Mustangs were only like 150hp back then if memeory serves me right.

No matter what.....clean it up, get it running safely (brakes, steering!), get the motor working, then drive it and have fun before doing to much to it Biggest regret in my project ('76 FJ40) was bring it home and only driving it up and down the driveway and then taking it all apart. Wish i'd gotten to drive it more before tearing it down

 

I'll remember that!

 

Nothing worse than having it non running and having to see it lol. To be fair though mine needed all new brake lines which spiraled out of control way to fast leading to the whole frame off thing (seized calipers, seized cylinders, bad brake lines, ect)

 

thats bad news bears!

Im REALLY hoping this doesnt turn into a frame off job!!! I got some key places along the birdcage to check for rust once I get it cleaned, to see how large of a project this really becomes. From everything I have check though as it currently sits, it looks really good rust-wise so far...as in practically none

 

O i knew mine would be a frame off eventually. Just not so soon lol. The brakes were a bit of a suprise. Thought they were just empty of fluid. Well it was empty of fluid cause they had a ton of leaks!

 

yea, i am already planning on every soft line being replaced and most, if not all, hard lines. I'd rather expect worse than the opposite haha

 

Well if you end up wanting ot make your own....nicop brake line is super easy to work with. And spend the $200 and get the eastwood flaring tool. Made the hard lines super easy to do.

or let me know if you do want to and i can send you mine since I wont need it for awhile

 

ill add it to my notes, thanks. If there are any rubber fuel lines I am going with all hard lines, since its recommended to avoid rubber for the fuel.

 

I would imagine (again not a vette guy) that you will have a mix of rubber and hardlines. Hardlines will be along the frame rails from up by the fuel pump to close to the fuel tank. Then rubber to go to the fuel pump and rubber to the fuel tank. Have to have some flex for body twist and frame movement and stuff. Kind of same concept with the brakes.

Ill be going a bit fancier for my fuel setup and doing hardlines as much as i can and then braided line to connect the hardlines to where it needs to go

 

I built a destroked 400 once, I like that a lot more than the typical 383 stroker.

That's awesome!!! Hopefully the rodents didn't get to it too badly. Looks like the intake was open to some dust and debris. I'd pour some marvel mystery oil down the cycl. and take the intake off just to check everything. Then fire that bitch up! Just get a small 600cfm carter carb and you're good to go.

 

thats exactly the plan haha. supposedly that marvel mystery oil works wonders so after cleaning it up a little, I gotta see if the crank will rotate and go through the process of working the piston rings free with the magic sauce. If I can get it to rotate, I think I'll be in business!

 

Sometimes though you'll still have issues. But let it soak in there for several days. Also ATF works really good too if you just keep topping off the cycl. with that. Sometimes starting with kerosene first for like a day then switching to marvel and atf you'll have better success. But this one sitting in a barn with minimal exposure to moisture or rain you should be in a lot better shape. I am glad the interior doesn't look like it's been torn to shreds by rodents.

 

Jeremy will get the significance.

 

That's really the only way to use that bender. I built a 10 point roll cage for our drift Supra out of 1 3/4" x .120 tube without a hydraulic ram and fuck that shit. Haha