what happens with uniball UCA's and 1" lift?

I only want 1" to 1.5" of lift. I want the durability and articulation of uniballs. The mid-travel setup works for me (LT is awesome, but my wrench skills and funds are more "bolt up" level).

I get that the uniballs allow more overall travel AND the more the lift the less the down travel. I definitely would like to maximise my travel, without sacrificing my stock 4x4 drive train, or rubbing parts together at travel extremes (I will be spending a fair amount of time on the 3+ and 4 Moab trails).

My concern now is to select UCA's that are most suited to less lift. Since many UCA's are designed to compensate for "more" lift, will that compensation have unintended negative consequences in the less lifted use?

More articulation is a goal, but not if it causes CV bind, or unusual stress on components. I totally believe in keeping it simple and don't want to use limiting straps. I have read that some set ups have interference issues on full droop and I will be pushing my suspension in that direction.

I am waiting on pricing from DSM and All-Pro, to choose between King and Fox components. I am planning to use Deaver extended travel rear springs and Timbrens.

Insights? Your experiences with alignment and mech issues with a mimimum lift set up? Do you know a component selection that will "not" have any compatability problems with less lift, so I might choose them? Do you know of any parts that "will" have issues, so I can avoid them?

Thanks... H

 

As I understand it about an inch, and someone reported suspension interference with to much droop. I believe with a 1" lift I may get another 1" on the bottom (best guestimate). I need to set up to avoid interference, to make alignment easy, and to best preserve the drivetrain angles and CV operation characteristics. Durability is critical. Don't "need" lift so I am looking to buy components to maximize my sweetspot.

Since I will be spending time in Moab, articulation is a plus, but dont want to bind or bang the 4x4 suspension and drivetrain.

 

Ahh Hawww... that's interesting.

Didn't catch that as a cause on the other thread. So 1" uniball with an extended CO.

With 1" uniball Im wondering which UCA is easiest to align, and that people think highly of? Think this is most critical and will buy what it takes.

Nobody has expressed any concern about binding or drive angles, so should I assume these are a "non" issue with what I want to do?

Also plan to do some front suspension gusseting for a little insurance.

Thanks... H

 

I wouldn't waste my money on UCAs if you are only lifting a 1 or 1.5 inches.

Just my 2 cents

 

Check out the Builtright UCAs. They are also a 1" uniball.

 

I would rather spend $600-700 towards a locker or bigger tires... You obviously have never wheeled with a locker and/or 33s or larger

 

The main thing Im looking for is improved strength and a little better articulation. My primary use is moderate expedition travel with a 700 lb. camper and gear (probably 1600 to 1800 lbs total). New UCA's, gusseting, custom Deaver springs, CO's, and reservoirs all around, so I have high confidence the loaded truck will take some punishment, handle the weight, and not let me down in places like Fairbanks or LaPaz.

When I get tired of the long distance stuff I'll be looking at modifying to a more serious slickrock set up. The UCA's will be there when I need them, and I will be glad to have them in the mean time. Totally agree that the air locker and bigger tires would be a strong improvement, but not what I want to do for the next couple of years.

Talking to mikesdoublecab, Chris4x4, and 06HAOLE makes me also want a long travel kit... that would also be an incredible improvement.

Appreciate the input... H

 

Hermit...

I just think bigger tires are more important than articulation.

I have seen trucks with 37s or 40s and NO flex go places where 35s and a ton of flex can't go.

If you can't get over a rock because your tires are too small what is the point of big articulation?

There is no way a truck with a long travel kit up front and 31s is going to out wheel something with bigger tires... especially if it has a locker.

33s will do just about every trail in Colorado except the super extremes like Independence. 31s will not. I don't care how much flex you have - you won't get over big rocks with small tires.

I highly recommend throwing 33x10.50s or if you have 16" wheels 255/85

You may want to read the following link. It sounds like you have the exact same use for your truck as these guys.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bfg_mt_km.html

http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/tacoma/index.html

 

LOL - you haven't wheeled tough trails then.

31s won't hang with 33s or 35s in Colorado. Maybe you can bypass obstacles in Arizona but you can't most of the time in Colorado.

I'm not going to get into a pissing match but that is ridiculous.

Sure articulation is important but tire size is much more important off road.

I'm talking rock crawling.

BTW - $700.00 put towards a locker is a much better investment than UCAs. You will do better off road with a Locker than what you would gain from UCAs

Seriously - You really think your 31s can hang with someone with 35s???

 

LMAO

I don't care how good the driver or the suspension. 31s are not going to be able to get a vehicle over a lot of obstacles on TOUGH trails. 35s will.

You were saying 31s before and now its 32s.....so which is it?

Maybe you have driven off road but you are clueless about rock crawling.

Putting $700 towards a Air locker is a better investment than UCAs no doubt. There isn't even an comparison. The locker will get you further all day long.