30,000mile brake flush

Highly recommend the cheapo pneumatic brake bleeder kit from Harbor Freight ($33, item #92924). So much easier and faster than finding a helper and pumping the brakes.

 

It is not a closed system since you have seals on wheel cylinders which of course move when applying brakes. Corrosion will occur just a matter of how rapid ... like engine oil ... you could probably go 50k before the motor may blow but what chance do you want to take.

 

OK.
If seals do not provide the closed system how come you don't leak the fluid?

 

i tried the MityVac from HF it worked ok but I think there may have been some air in my ABS possibly when I did my front caliper pads I didn't crack the bleeders on pushing in the pistons, I took it too the stealer for a BG machine bleed it did the trick for the soft pedal I couldn't get rid of

 

Toyota Qaulity

 

Its well worth to pay $93 for the machine bleed its done once and done right using the machine gets out all air and old fluid, only I would extend it to 60k miles but its up to you

 

Don't forget to bleed them in the right order...... furthest from master cylinder to closest. I've been bit by that before.

 

The thing I'm talking about actually connects to an air compressor. Works much better than a MityVac.

 

I seen that one but I don't have no air compressor hookup, probably would give a better suck job since u can increase the PSI and its constant, whereas I think the mity vac instructions say to pump to 10-15 psi and it has to be repumped up a lot to keep it at 10-15 psi

 

Might as well pile on.

On my SCCA car, no ABS, full flush/fill every 2 years. Use ATE blue and gold alternate times, so you know by color when you have fully flushed a line. Speed bleeders in each caliper (and in the clutch slave too) made life easy peasy.

On my normal street vehicles (much less brake use) every 2 years I siphon the master with a turkey baster and refill with Castrol GTLMA (low moisture).

IF I have to replace a caliper I always do them in pairs, and of course that's a bleeding process. Same with a bad master. So I go ahead and do the full on change.

I have had to replace the master in my '04 Highlander at about 125k and 13 years old. I don't know if that would have been avoided with bi annual fluid changes or not, and I have no clue what type of forensics engineer it would take to even try and determine that. But I can say I've not had any caliper issues on that vehicle, and it has 4 of them

Bleeding a master (even with bench bleeding prior to install) in one of these things (including our Tacomas) is a nightmare unless you have the Techstream software to cycle the ABS servos for you.

 

I was gonna ask you for just changing the fluid in the MC would suffice.

 

By the time you may actually gain any benefit from fluid replacement, you'll most likely need new brakes. This would be the time for that task.

I don't ever open/remove my master cylinder reservoir cap to add fluid. When it gets to the minimum mark, it's generally time to replace your brakes. I once had a T4R that we kept over 13yrs with almost 200k miles on the clock. It never got to the minimum mark and I never opened the reservoir cap or replaced the fluid.

It would have gone another 5-10k miles had I kept it and I would have RR calipers and flush as they all get that brown deposit inside.

Hope that helps
cheers!

 

Good article on why it is considered open for those that still do not want to change fluid

https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/open-vs-closed-758514.html

 

Suffice is a matter of opinion I suppose. Everyone has their own anecdotal evidence.

I will say that it's certainly better than not doing anything at all.

 

I like Russell performance speed bleeders....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-639570/make/toyota/model/tacoma

I usually buy a set with my first brake pad change. I've broken off more than one frozen bleed valve.

 

I like the idea and ease of use with speed bleeders, but I also would like to see if and air gets pumped out if I could see the bleeder valves, I guess I could always get a pedal pumper while I break the bleeders

 

I don't really need to look at them while they are bleeding. I just send most of a reservoir of fluid down each line and call it good. No use being stingy with a container of brake fluid any way, once it's opened, the clock is ticking. I don't keep partials.

 

$129 from what they quoted me.

I'm not so much questioning doing it but whether to wait another 10-15k km till it's warm out .Or just pay lol

 

As always
I regret starting this

Agreed. It's just like when doing oil changes and people try and get away from it.
Cheap jobs that can really help.

I'm really just asking cause my previous vehicles were not as often

 

"I had a chevy cavalier that went 300k miles and never had a problem therefore the chevy cavalier is the most reliable car ever"

Yup no problems with your single data point logic at all lol. Like I said there's people that don't change their oil for 30k miles and don't have problems either, what would you say to them?? Is their logic correct in that since they didn't have a problem everyone should do it?