Using an in cab push button switch to kill power to a Smittybilt winch.

My SSO Slimline should be here soon, and with it I plan to install a SB X20 10K to go along with it. I'd like to also have a way to kill power to the winch when I am not using it. I could install a switch under the hood in line, but what's the fun in that? I wanted to use a CH4x4 switch inside the cab to kill the power.

Can someone point me in the right direction on how to wire this up? I know I'll need a relay, I've got the switch. But as far as the wiring goes I am lost on this one. The install manual does a good job describing how to wire the winch, but I'd like to avoid keeping it powered full time.

 

You're right on needing the relay but I don't know if anyone even makes a relay big enough for that.
Most of the 5pin relay are only good for 30-40amp. At least not in the conventional way

You might have to go with a manual switch or look into battery isolator type relays.

Blue Sea likely makes them.

 

This outta be good.

G.

 

The winch itself has a power switch

 

What is the goal of doing this?

 

Get the Winch Quick Connect with end cover plugs, connect when your going to use it.

 

You need something like this OP, and you’ll need to mount it in the engine bay, between the winch and the battery.

$39 Blue Sea Systems 9003E e-Series Battery Switch, On/Off, Red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMC914/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1h2qCb2B8309H

 

Incorrect. The switch on the winch is to turn off the wireless control. It’s powered constantly otherwise.

 

had mine installed for a week so far..... no battery draw..... it will be a new winch, so unless it has an internal short, it won't draw anything...... never had a winch "kill" a battery.... ever.

 

I don't know that he's necessarily worried about power draw. I have an isolation solenoid that I use as a preventative measure in case of an accident or if someone trying to steal my winch decides to cut the wires. There have been instances of vehicle fires caused by both of those cases.

I'm pretty sure my solenoid is rated 300a continuous with 750a or 1000a momentary but I would need to look to verify.

 

I’m not an electrical expert, but it’s a power switch according to Smittybilt and manually (including non wireless) the winch doesn’t work until the control handle is plugged in.

“This model has a switch on the solenoid pack to turn off the wireless. This way wireless interference can't actuate your winch while you aren't using it and pretzel your bumper/cause a fire. 5 pin winch solenoid wiring uses a double switched ground/positive setup so the contactor isn't grounded unless the winch switch is pressed. This provides solid security against unintended operation in the event of wiring or contactor failure, and wireless systems without a cutoff switch violate this safety measure.”

 

That is literally what he just said.

 

Edit: That BlueSeas switch model doesnt have a very high constant or intermittent amp rating, its rated to 350/600 amps . There’s another one that goes up to 900 amps. I put mine in the engine bay, but if he really wants to, I guess it could be mounted on his dash. He just needs a drill bit large enough to wire it up with some 1-guage power cord through the dash and firewall. Easy peasy!


I’m not responsible for results, however...

 

OP I have the wired model below that, 9500 XRC, and I got this one to wire between the winch and battery:

$78 Blue Sea Systems 3000 HD-Series Heavy Duty On-Off Battery Switch Grey

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...sea+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=51apZHOB0XL&ref=plSrch

 

only way to do it really. I mean he could run the line into the cab and back out lol. I moved my solenoid into the engine bay and i have in cab switches but still have the main switch under the hood and near the battery for when it needs to be turned on for use.

 

There’s more to it, the solenoid switch turns the winch off so you can’t use it manually or wireless.

The wireless battery powered remote handle has a power switch, as well.

A quick connect you’ll have to pop the hood to connect and you have to plug in the remote handle which is right next to the solenoid switch.

To connect a quick connect for a winch is a waste of money plus it can kill your winch for the reasons below. These are not 100W light bars drawing 7 amps they draw up to 500 amps.



This from another TW Member

“A disconnect isn't a bad idea to prevent issues in the event of a crash, but not matter what, it is very important to ensure the cables are well secured and protected against rubbing. Same as your high current starter cable, which are never fused BTW. The downside to any disconnect or quick-connect connector is that it will eventually be a cause of high resistance, which equals low voltage to the motor, which = high current = heat which will destroy the winch motor.”


And if anyone’s thinking of using a fuse or circuit breaker, read this from expedition portal

“In my opinion, the winch manufacturers tell you to wire the winch directly to the battery for a reason. The wire harness provided is the only wiring on the vehicle capable of sustaining the amperage load the winch demands under its rated range of performance. Degrading or limiting the harness rating would only degrade the performance of the winch.

Many winches will, in fact, consume 400 amps or more even when not stalled. A full stall electric motor consumes a lot of amperage, and it may well spike under those conditions to amperages well above those shown for the same motor under a running load. Having never had a load meter on a stalled winch, I don't know what the amperage consumption could spike to, but I would assume it would be well above the maximum draw shown for the winch under load. Still, I have stalled my winch many times without damage, and without causing a fire, so whatever the draw was, the system was able to provide it and sustain it at least briefly without negative result.

Most of the time when using a winch for recovery, you will not pull maximum loads and thus will not pull maximum amperage. We routinely use only 2,000 to 4,000 pounds of pull for recovery, even with rigs far heavier than that and with winches rated for 8,000 to 12,000 pounds of pull. Check the power consumption chart for your winch. Instead of focusing on the maximum ratings and loads, look at the consumption for a 2,000 pound pull on the first wrap or second wrap and you will find that the power consumed is far less than maximum, and probably within the range of a heavy duty alternator. If this was all the winch ever was asked to do, a 200A breaker would probably do fine in circuit.

However, the power harness for the winch should be built to handle the maximum load anticipated, not the nominal load or average demands of recovery. You simply can not control the amount of power needed by your winch when recovering a vehicle, so you need to build for maximum effort.

I would not recommend using a circuit breaker or fuse in a winch harness for the simple reason that it is both possible and likely that you will see momentary power consumption far above the rating of any such device if the breaker rating is lower than the winch demands. I don't see a point in this, because you will be resetting breakers or replacing fuses when it really is not required otherwise.

Having used winches on vehicles in extreme circumstances now for a lot of years, I can say from experience that I have never seen a short in a winch harness. I have even used mine repeatedly while the winch was fully submerged, without issues or shorting. If the harness is correctly routed, not subjected to abuse or excesses of heat and abrasion, or neglected, the likelihood of a short is so far down the probability scale as to be not worth taking extraordinary steps such as installing circuit interrupters.

My recommendation is to install the winch according to manufacturer's directions and let it go at that.”

 

That one is perfect - OP take a look at the rating on the face of the switch, the black one below can handle most winches when they are in full load mode- check your winch ratings at full load before you do this though just to be sure. See this:

vs this:


Ignore the voltage rating, as they are over 12v. As long as both continuous and intermittent amp values exceed your winch ratings, you will be ok directly wiring in this switch. Use 1 or 2 guage battery cables to do it, and keep them as short as possible.

 

I have mine directly wired to the battery now but my choose this switch just in case. Still thinking about it. Just installed the SSO Slimline today with xrc 9500. Thanks for the tip.

 

With my Warn Winch, I used Warns own relay isolator kit. Wired up to my Spod.

 

I'll have to make note of this.