Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

Handling an airbag is always exciting. I swear if someone popped a balloon near me while I was doing it I would straight up shit myself.

Sounds like you took all the appropriate steps though. As long as you handle it safely (carry pointed away from you, store face up w/ nothing on top, etc) you are minimizing your risk of injury even if something unexpected does happen.

Glad the write up helped! I think we've pretty well covered all the options for adding them at this point and have guided people through a good number of prewired and un-prewired setups.

 

So only the sr doesn’t have fog lights?

 

Where does the blue wire go? Can an extra wire be added if not prewired or is the programming missing that it operates with?

 

I did everything like it said here with the exception of the two repair terminals connecting to the switch. I have a switch I got on Amazon proably Chinese in origin with a wiring harness and pigtails. I attached the wires as directed and it only lights up when I switch the fogs off. It stays on when the truck is shut off too, unless you switch the fogs on. When I reverse the last two wires it still doesn’t work. I thought I had at least the two wires right because the fog lights function normally and the indicator above the speedometer goes on too. I just need to get the switch to light normally and I will be home free! Help me please!

 

Hey I saw your other thread and just replied over there that I would reply over here...

Okay, so the reason is because you are using an aftermarket switch. They are wired differently on the inside, even though they may both have 4 wires coming out of them.

The OEM Toyota switch is designed to simply light up with the dash lights only- that is, it will switch on or off when the dash lights are on or off, because the dash already has an icon that tells you if the fogs themselves are on or not.

This aftermarket switch is wired differently. (And I'm not sure exactly how, unless you can share a schematic)

Depending on how the wiring is set up I *might* be able to help you get it to switch the orientation of lighting. Sometimes it's on the package, sometimes it's even an image in the item listing itself.
Report back with your findings and we'll see what we can do!

 

Here is what the makers of this thing sent me earlier:

black ground
red connect 12v acc+
blue connect to light application
yellow connect 12v power source

I currently have different color wires in that harness and have been going on order top to bottom like you said in the OP. Like I said maybe I shouldn’t mess with the first two since the fogs are working, but the last two confuse me. I hope this helps. How much is a switch wired like the one you used? I have a Sasquatch Lights switch right next to it that’s fine. It’s from CH4x4 are those wired right for this application?

 

Alright so do you have a multimeter? Any old one will do as all we would need to check is continuity on the switch. There's probably a way to get this working but I would need to know what has continuity with what internally. There isn't a way for the switch to illuminate all the time, as even after "fixing" it you're only going to have it light up when the fogs are on.

Also I will edit the post to mention that the wiring setup shown only works for an OEM switch (about $20-$40 at the dealership if memory serves) so there is less confusion.

 

This is the switch pcb for the small toyota push switch.
The 6- closely spaced pins in the center are the switch pins, the 2- pairs at the top corners(one set unsoldered) are the led pins, below each pair is a pin, a space, and another pin, these are the pins for the resistors that determine light output for the leds(more often than not much brighter than oem)
The 5 pins along the bottom of the trace area are 1- led ground(dimmer ground or chassis ground), 2- led power for general illumination, 3- not connected, 4- switch out(note this powers secondary led for switch-on), 5- switch power. I haven't popped open either an oem long switch or one of the aftermarket versions to tak pics but even though the current max is much greater(20A vs 3A) I'd be surprised if the pcb layout weren't similar.

 

Is it possible I have the wrong wire connected to pin 26 from the switch even though the lights work? Am I safe in the assumption I have both the ground and the pin 26 wire right or should I be open to changing it all?

Also, what do I look for with the voltmeter? Continuity I know but do I check the wires first or what? I’ve never used a voltmeter before, please advise!

 

I’m gonna be out for the day and I’m phone posting right now but all I would need is for you to check continuity on the switch itself when pressed and not pressed.

 

Alright update: I got a guy to help me with a voltmeter and we have succeeded in getting the switch to illuminate when fogs are switched on. It’s better than nothing but I think I’m going to try another switch and start fresh. Perhaps the next one I buy will be wired like the tutorial posted here.

 

Cool man, your buddy beat me to the punch. Basically what I was gonna help you figure out was how to make it switch on with the fogs instead of switch off with the fogs, because with that style of switch those are your only 2 options.

If you wanna source the OEM switch, the part number is in the OP and I got mine from Partznet (Conicelli Toyota) ... Nice folks, used to live within will-call distance of them.

 

I like the CH 4X4 ones I have another set of raptor style lights and the switch from there works fine. I wonder if it would be okay to use one of those? They let you customize it so it’s cool but foremost it needs to work. So there is no way for the switch I have to work right?

 

Does your other CH 4X4 switch work with the dash lights? That is, pushing the button itself changes nothing and it only lights up whenever the rest of the dash lights are on?
If so then yeah it'll work just fine.

Green to Pin 26 ECU
Red 1 to Dash ground
Red 2 to Green light wire from under dash
Black to Beige light wire from under dash

And no, your current switch appears to be wired in such a way that there is no possible way to have it always on.

 

I have connected my other CH 4x4 switch to the green wire coming from the bed/cargo light harness to the third wire (red 2) on the switch harness... and it lights up when I turn on my lights along with the other interior lights, however I noticed today that it was lighting up dimly/partially when the lights are not on. Very curious. Perhaps if I get it connected in a more permanent way it won’t do this? I don’t know... do you think they could have changed some things with the 2018 as opposed to the 2016 you initially did this on?

 

But yeah this is fun finding out... life’s a journey this is something to do!

 

Okay update, I ordered a switch from CH 4x4 that I will try when it comes in next week. Jan 29 is the day it’s supposed to be here but things always ship faster for me and the company is in state so it may be sooner. I’ll try to wire it and let everyone know so that others can read and avoid the problems I have had.

 

Will this method work on a 2nd gen?

 

Thanks for the write up @Nitori !

Got mine installed and done yesterday (wheel off method)

Went ahead and added the intermittent wipers while I was in there.

Happy to answer any questions about it.

 

Where did you get the intermittent wipers installed? At the dealer? How much did it cost? I'm thinking of adding it. Thanks.