Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

I think that's an over simplified statement. A 1330/1310 is only too small for certain Tacoma applications. I've been driving my Jeeps and Toyotas (in which a 1310/1330 is a common size) into the mud, muck and mountains for 20 something years and I've NEVER blown a u-joint. I don't act a fool offroad and I'm only out there to get to a camping spot or so do some mild playing, so I don't take crazy trails that'd put me in a position to bust u-joints. I also maintain/replace them at regular intervals, which lowers the risks. I do still carry spares though, because I know it's always possible.

Conversely, I have friends that I venture out with whom regularly blow u-joints. They're usually more built rigs though; 35s and bigger, dual lockers, etc etc and we tend to knowingly abuse them as the toys they were built to be. So yes, 1330s can be too small/weak for their applications and most of them have upgraded (and still blow them).

Point is, a 1330 or 1310 is a perfectly fine size and strength u-joint...right up until it isn't. I'm confident, and have proven, it'll serve its purpose just fine in my application. YMMV if you use yours differently. No need to overbuild unless there's a direct need. I do wish I could keep 1330's though, so while I'm here to pick apart your post for generalizing...I agree.

Jake

 

Parts came in today, first problem is the splined pinion yoke bolt holes aren't even close to lining up with the bolt holes in the centering yoke, so I might have to back up and punt. I'll get into it this weekend.

Unfortunately Dana doesn't publish the bolt hole pattern for the splined yokes, so it's a roll of the dice. They only make ONE 1330 centering (socket) yoke casting (in greasable and non-greasable variants) and do not make a 26 spline end yoke that will bolt up to it.

The next best option is to use a 26 spline companion flange (https://www.danaaftermarket.com/aut...6&cat3=323&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART)

and a CV Flange Yoke (https://www.danaaftermarket.com/part/id/1005091?pn=211631X&cp=0)

And either weld them together or make an adapter plate. That would work, but the companion flange by itself is $170 and the CV flange yoke would be in the $90-100 range, so expensive and still requires fabrication or welding.

 

I’ll be doing this swap,,,,,,

The carrier bearing is terrible. I’m surprised there haven’t been a bazillion hate posts on TW. Toyota and Dana Spicer should be bitch slapped for releasing something so pathetic.

 

Did you ever get this dialed in?

 

Did you go with the same parts list I created and posted? Some of those parts you were having issues with look totally different than what I posted. Also the source I used has all the specifications and drawings for dimensions so you should be able to match this stuff up pretty easily.

 

2-4-6111x splined yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...x_pinion_yoke_u_bolt_style_fits_dana_30_.html
211179x Centering yoke to bolt to splined yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2292_dana_spicer_211179x_cv_centering_yoke_ford_bronco_f_150_f_25.html
2-26-527 DC H-yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9..._double_cardan_cv_h_yoke_1330_series_fit.html
2-28-2187x ball stud weld on yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1..._ball_stud_yoke_1330_series_to_fit_3.0_i.html
5368 Neapco tubing adapter https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3931_neapco_5368_increasing_bushing_3.0_inch_to_3.5_inch.html
You may be able to adapt your non-greasable stuff to my list but Denny's DS is a great source since they have specifications. Also look at the yoke I linked it is a non threaded one. If you would like I could compile a list of compatible parts for your non greasable set up. That would be compatible.

 

Look at the parts and specs I published they do and there are specs for the bolt patterns and I have a different yoke.

 

How much length did the shop end up having to hack off your DS to make the DC fit?

 

I just came across this thread today and appreciate the work you guys have done.

I’ll hit up my local shop with the info provided and see what they can do.

Right now my DS is shot, with play inside the second shaft. Most likely part of the slip joint.

 

Try greasing it. There are aftermarket slip joints available but it may be cheaper to source a used one.

 

I’m not sure grease will help at this point, but I’ll look into it.

Is there a zerk fitting I’m not seeing, or do I need to pull the boot?

Not to mention, I still have a vibe issue that needs resolved and looking for a permanent fix.

 

I spent all day trying to do this and I’d love to see you put a list together. The first two parts in your list won’t work together, btw, one is for 1.125” (Ford Big Cap) 1330 joints, and the centering piece is for regular 1.062” 1330s. For the life of me I can’t find the flanged centering yoke used in that $1300 drive shaft either.

 

Unfortunately I can't provide an exact measurement, they never shared that with me. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out the total additional length of the DC setup and get the amount the rest needs to be shortened by.

If you want, I can get some measurements on mine and compare those to stock, and work the equation backwards.

 

Yeah if you could do that, that would be awesome. All I need is the flange to the weld just before the DC joint set up and I can get the stock measurements.

 

Yeah, I've got a legit full schedule this week, but I'll do my best to remember this weekend and get you some info.

 

I had to back up and punt, sent all the 1330 parts back and I'm going to a 1310 center CV.

As stated previously, the splined pinion yoke listed by ovrlndkull (2-4-6111X) is for the larger 1 1/8" diameter 1330 caps, that won't work with anything else. The only 26 spline (Dana 30) pinion yoke Spicer makes for a 1330 joint with 1 1/16" bearing caps is the one I tried (2-4-3581-1X).

Of the 1330 parts I ordered, the problem is compatibility between the pinion yoke (2-4-3581-1X) and the centering yoke (211996X non-greasable or 211179X greasable). The pinion yoke is designed for u-bolts, so the bolt pattern is larger than that of the centering yoke. No way to make that work with off-the-shelf Dana/Spicer parts.

The flange yoke used in that custom shaft is just that, custom. There's no bolt-together off the shelf parts combination that will make a 1330 center CV work. There's a solution (post #543) I posted using a companion flange and a flange centering yoke, either welded together or joined with a machined adapter flange, but the cost made me rule out even trying it since I know the 1310 setup will work and I need to get this done and move on.

 

Hmmmmmm interesting I'm going to go and check on this. I'm going to order parts and try and put something together then source a DS to do this on.

 

Sorry it took me a bit. I measured from the flange at the diff to the weld right before the DC joint starts. Length is 37 1/16th, before the 3.5” to 3” adapter is welded on.

 

I consider you guys the driveline masters of the forum, so I'll ask my question here.

Yesterday we put on the

$42 Spicer 211590-1x Center Bearing

Spicer 211590-1x cb. We made spacers for the install (as per the thread), but for starters I bolted the cb up in it's correct orientation. I didn't put the angle gauge on it, but eyeballing it the angles look terrible. It looks like it's sitting way too low. But for shits and giggles we took it out for a test drive, and the truck is almost completely vibe free. Keep in mind, this is the first time my truck hasn't had vibes in over 2 years, so it was a bit surreal.

My question is, as long as there are no vibrations, is there any danger to running "bad" angles on the driveshaft?