JFR Equal Length Y-Pipe for 2nd Gen Tacoma, T4R, & FJ Cruisers

There’s a good bit of info on this thread, if you want to have your existing shaft redone and also at the same time eliminate vibrations. See solution 2.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-and-two-piece-driveshaft-vibes-be-gone.475797/

 

I read through that before, but was previously hoping for a better solution. Now that I found out my DS is bad (<80k miles ), I’m reliving at the option #2 choice.

 

Thanks again for hosting and port matching my s/c inlet! @Roostfactor

@loginfailed was great meeting you and @elnip

Was very cold but had a great time! Thanks again for all your help pulling the blower and installing the injectors Dwayne

Truck threw the same coil pack codes and misfire codes on the way home. Scott put the stage 1 tune back in it later today to see if that got rid of the codes. Seems to be running good now, but will drive it for a few days to see if they return

Dwayne and John, have either of you noticed a rougher idle on your trucks after installing the 61lb injectors? Mine seems to be idling rough after its up to operating temp

 

No rough idle here. 61’s and stage 3. I would say just the opposite. If you added the larger throttle body, there might be an adjustment time period. Did you replace the throttle body too?

 

No, same stock sized tb. But the s/c inlet behind the tb was port matched so maybe it needs to relearn the idle because of that.

 

I stripped out an O2 sensor while removing the OE y-pipe...

 

Was it rusted or what?

 

Didn't seem to be, but the hex-flats rolled on me when I tried to loosen it. The first one came off easy.

I may let it soak overnight and try vise grips in the morning.

I hate to blow $100ish at O'Reilly's tomorrow, when RockAuto has them for half that.

 

Try one of these from any auto part store

 

I can get a box end wrench on it, I just need some help holding the y-pipe tomorrow.

One-man ops at 2300hrs sucks sometimes.

 

Work of art!!

 

POS...

 

I always remove the O2 sensors while the pipe is still installed.
Try holding the pipe with your feet and using a cheater bar on your box end wrench. A 6 point is best as if it's really on there a 12 point wrench could strip the O2 sensor.
Try not to mix up which side the o2 sensors came from. One harness is slightly longer than the other. No difference in operation.
My exhaust is out all the time but I label my O2 sensor connectors with a "D" and "P" so I know which side they go to.
Gaskets dont matter which way you install them.

I would install the j-adapters (almost snug) before installing the new y-pipe. Rotating the j-adapter all the way around may be an issue after y-pipe install.
I also install passenger side bolts and or nuts LOOSELY first. It's easier to position the drivers side after the passenger side.

 

Of course man! Thanks for making the trip!

Sometimes I have an occasional little stumble but havent pursued it because its minimal.

 

Mine idles pretty good, for me there wasn’t a noticeable difference in idle after swapping injectors.

If you’re getting P0353 you could try swapping the coils around and/or swapping the spark plugs around to see if the code moves to another cylinder.

Cylinder 3 is on the easy side (middle coil, passenger side). So you could swap #1 and #3 pretty easily for diagnostic purposes.



Here’s the link to P035X DTC in the factory service manual:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0050033.pdf

I’d also ask Scott if the UCON is in line with the ignition coil wires. I’d assume it is, but never thought to ask. Since you had that problem since installing the replacement UCON, it’s possible it could be either a UCON problem or wiring connection issue.

The other thing that might be worth trying is to remove the UCON and re-seat the connectors where the UCON and ECU plug in. It could just be a connection issue. Not sure if you’ve ever built a PC before but sometimes when you’re having issues with the computer, things can be fixed by just re-seating the RAM sticks. This is the same idea.

 

Now that im thinking about it more, I think it could be relating to the s/c inlet being ported and that causing more airflow at idle. The manual trans trucks take a bit longer to adjust after upgrading to the bigger throttle body, and I think something similar might be happening here.

Good troubleshooting technique indeed. I am going to give this a try if the codes return again.

I think it is an issue with the tune. I spoke with Scott yesterday and he reflashed it with the Stage 1 tune so that we could isolate if the added power from the stage 2 with the 61lb injectors was causing the misfire and coil pack codes. I've driven the truck 65 miles since it was retuned yesterday , and so far it hasn't thrown a single code and its still running good. Gonna daily it this week and see if anything returns though. If they do, then I will likely start like you said with the UCon connections. I did clean all the connectors on the UCon and the truck's harness with contact cleaner recently before I installed the new UCon, but it would be a good easy variable to eliminate. I have poked around a little in my mac when I was having issues with it not turning on and it ended up being the RAM, so yes I know what you mean!

 

@Roostfactor
@loginfailed
@rjbiii

Excellent time with you guys! Worth every bit of the drive there and back despite working in the meat locker all day...lol. I'd do it a gain to work with these guys!

550 miles back home and everything is tight and solid, (not that I doubted it would be the way John is a madman). I didn't reset the ECU before I left because I had to get on the road.
The more I drove the better it got. I can't speak for mileage as I had a headwind of varying degree back home but my perception is that throttle response is improved, passing power
is immediate and it pulls to redline quicker, the VVT-I switchover is prevalent as your swing to redline. Passing on the two lane roads is point and shoot. Not S/C level but a nice improvement. The sound is refined, hard to explain but it is better.

Before: URD high clearance 3" with Magnaflow, stock everything else.
After: stock manifolds, JFR 'lucky' #13 Y-pipe, Flex, Cat, Vibrant Resonator, URD back

This is a solid option for the T4R and the FJ now as well.

EDIT: I will post pics soon!

 

Was very nice meeting you sir! Your T4R sounds great!

 

Port matching the sc inlet wouldnt cause the issue.