JFR Equal Length Y-Pipe for 2nd Gen Tacoma, T4R, & FJ Cruisers

I think you might be on to something here. Noticed a little oil right near the front of the intercooler lid. I wiped it clean, took it for a test drive (high boost) and sure enough its back. this tells me theres a leak on the oring and oil is being blown out of it under boost.. could explain my rough idle because that would be a vacuum leak as well. Gonna order another oring for the lid but is it okay to seal it up with a little rtv before the new one comes in?

 

Well done!!! Your diagnosis is on point. Yes, oil resistant rtv is fine to seal the lid.

 

Sooo.... Y-Pipe initial impression.

Form, fit, and function was spot on.

First start was interesting, because I didn't know what to expect, since all of our trucks are a little different in their own way. If i sum it up into one word, this thing is QUIET. Both of my 2015 DCLB's came with the TRD exhaust installed by the dealer, so I never heard it without one and my '02 T4R was the 3.4l. I think going with the HF Cat and resonator was the right choice, since I plan on LT headers in the near future (if they ever arrive. Cough, cough... URD fail ).

I just completed a short test drive, after re-installing my POS drive shaft and the one thing I noticed, was the TRD drone was completely gone. Again, this thing is very quiet and will definitely complement the header install.

Now I'm looking forward to my drive into work tomorrow, so I can get a full appreciation of this system.

All in all, I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome.

Excellent work John!

 

Thanks! sealed it up, going to let it sit overnight and see if that helps. Crossing my fingers all is sorted! Thatll make Scott's job a lot easier

 

Thank you Rob!

Looking forward to your thoughts after some mileage. A battery reset would be a good idea to give the ecu a fresh start as well.

 

Long night tonight.

 

Feast!!!

 

Chili cook off at work on Thursday.

 

So, did it work?

Those seals are actually pretty expensive. I think they can be $100.

 

Still idling rough but no codes, not sure whats going on.. i found a toyota one for 52 bucks, gonna change it out on thursday

 

What are your afr's when it is idling rough?

 

here you go sir.. both sides do the same thing at different times. One side goes to 13.6-13.8 then goes back to over 15. Seems like the injectors could be the culprit and theyre just pushing a little too much fuel at idle. Then once it's in the high 13s, UCon says oh thats too rich, and tries to adjust to lean it out some. Let me know what your thoughts are on this sir. If i turn the AC on level 3 or 4, it smooths out some. The idle stays smooth above 800rpms. Once it dips below 800rpms, it gets a little rougher. The idle does seem to be a little better today than it was yesterday so the vacuum leak could have been part of the issue, still seems rougher than it should be though

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=353EKI-bheE&feature=youtu.be

 

Check that boost reference port hose. I remember it was hard to pull off and put on. Could have a crack in it.

 

Something else I just thought of. Try taking the lid off again, loosen the two mounting bracket bolts on the driver side and the bolts for the pulleys. Then loosen and re-torque the bolts for the blower. Maybe we tightened the bracket bolts before the blower bolts and you have an intake leak under the blower. If you're going to the trouble to do that, you could also go all the way and replace the intake gasket since we reused the old one.

Just some ideas.

 

Good idea, will check this later today

Also a good idea. Will add this to the troubleshooting list. If i take everything apart, i will also install the new spark plugs that i forgot about on mod day lol

 

Can u check ur fuel trims?

 

Not sure if ucon affects what the obd2 port reads, id venture to say it did so ill have to look at some of the data in a log. What should i be looking for?

 

Guardian has kicked in two days in a row now. Passenger bank went lean today, verified that on my afr gauge. Didnt see what happened yesterday, but im guessing it did the same. Also happened up in Wichita falls when merging on the hwy (confirmed passenger bank leaned out here after looking at datalog). I am convinced i have a vacuum leak or something wrong somewhere..

 

I was poking around in the engine bay tonight and did a few things:

- Hose clamped tubing running on top of bypass valve and tightened both down
- replaced boost port tubing (didnt look damaged though) @loginfailed
- removed/replaced a zip tie that had the tubing running from the intake piping to the FPR slightly pinched
- inspected passenger side injector insulators
-inspected all around lip of intercooler lid- no visible leaks, but this is still a potential vacuum leak if the o-ring is bad
- reset battery for 3 mins

Started it up, still idling a bit rough after up to temperature. Planning on pulling the blower this weekend and going back through everything. Also going to replace spark plugs, intercooler o-ring, and plenum gasket

Kinda bummed im having more problems. Makes me wish id have left everything alone

 

Fuel trims will show u what’s happening when running. If + numbers it’s adding fuel means it running lean. And opposite. While idling if it’s running rough u can take throttle clean or brake clean and spray it where you think it’s leaking and the idle should go up or down. If u can watch fuel trims live while doing this it’s easier too.