What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Tacoma1845 · Jan 22, 2019

CoastieRon said: ↑

Happened at my dealer too. I called and raised holy hell. Brought it in and they cleaned it.
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I called and raised hell too, to the service manager. He said he was going to see who worked on my truck and have a talk with them. He also offered to clean it, but at that moment I was so pissed I pulled it off and cleaned it myself. He also told me the next time I bring it in to deal directly with him. This was the first time I've ever had someone change the oil in my vehicle and may be the last.

Hellvillain · Jan 22, 2019

TRDjoe15 said: ↑

Long Island ferry to new London?
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Port Jeff to bridgeport, yea

gwynn1975 · Jan 22, 2019

Got my C4 Fab LoPro bumper, Warn M8000-s and Extreme LED 20” Amber/white combo lightbar installed today

a_hol · Jan 22, 2019

Introduced the pup to the truck for the first time!

PacNW_Taco · Jan 22, 2019

gwynn1975 said: ↑

Got my C4 Fab LoPro bumper, Warn M8000-s and Extreme LED 20” Amber/white combo lightbar installed today

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That is definitely a satisfying mod to complete. Winch, bumper, lights. Hell ya!

bgreyc · Jan 22, 2019

gwynn1975 said: ↑

Got my C4 Fab LoPro bumper, Warn M8000-s and Extreme LED 20” Amber/white combo lightbar installed today

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Awesome looking bumper, love the Combo light! I have been looking at these, great example!

Daddy_Firebird · Jan 22, 2019

Easthill Bob said: ↑

On ebay search or find seller dangoodbuy.
Dan should be able to fix you up with some plugs. I just bought some to fill the 2 holes in my tailgate when I'm not using my work platform just to keep out any dirt and debris. They were a little pricey for what they are for plastic but were exactly what I was looking for. They look factory once installed. You'll need a fairly accurate measurement of the holes to get a good snug fit, measurement with a pair of verniers would help. Search "rigid plastic hole plugs" to find dangoodbuy and check out "search sellers other items" once on his listing. You should be able to find what you need there. Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the recommendation! Searching now..

gwynn1975 · Jan 22, 2019

bgreyc said: ↑

Awesome looking bumper, love the Combo light! I have been looking at these, great example!
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Thanks!!! I’m really happy with how it came out

18Tacos · Jan 22, 2019

Threw on my 2” spacers and took it for a spin. Looks great but way too dark to get pictures tonight.

greg8765 · Jan 22, 2019

gwynn1975 said: ↑

Got my C4 Fab LoPro bumper, Warn M8000-s and Extreme LED 20” Amber/white combo lightbar installed today

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that looks so bitchin! i want one so bad

pdenajim · Jan 22, 2019

Not much but this arrived for my taco today. Not sure when it will installed though.

Papadave418 · Jan 22, 2019

Got my Kings and Deaver HD’s on last Saturday, what an amazing difference from stock. Great group of local TWer’s helped with wrenching.

Deleted the bags

Akmedic2018 · Jan 23, 2019

Update over this last weekend I installed my full ome kit along with had Toyo AT 2 285/75/r16 mounted and balanced with an alignment. Also got my Tepui Ruggedized Kekumen RTT installed.

What do you all think?

emonomics · Jan 22, 2019

pop.tremuloides said: ↑

Simply DROVE it home!

Around 150 miles on it to bring it to work for a retirement. Crappy WX hit here in Colorado so this is what I did to my TACO!

45 mile drive, tons of snow on the route home, simply got me home safely!

Brand spanking new and had zero issues!
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But was there a plastic cover on your front emblem?

TXTRDOR · Jan 23, 2019

Cruz on our outing last weekend. First time testing out the new tire/suspension setup, and the wifey grabbed this pic. She’s a happy girl.

Soul Surfer · Jan 23, 2019

tandemgeek said: ↑

SOUND CONTROL / OBSERVED RESULTS

As a follow-on to the Sound Insulation material installation, today was the first time I had the truck out with both the door and full-cab treatments. Let me just say right up front, if you expect to yield Lexus LS - level noise control you will be disappointed. If you expect to simply reduce "all cabin noise" by 50% again, you'll be disappointed. However, if you are looking to eliminate a LOT of high-frequency mechanical noise, a LOT of high-frequency road and external noise and have a far more relaxing driving experience with better sound production from your sound system and/or the ability to carry on a conversation with your travel companions at a normal discussion volume, you might be pretty happy. I'm pretty happy.

Observed Results: The butt-dyno yielded the empirical results cited above, in terms of how much sound pressure in decibels (dBA) changed due to the addition of the sound insulating materials here's how it looks at first glance bearing in mind that I'm using the same $13 sound level meter to record ambient noise.

So, referring back to my entry on 30 December for the baseline, here's where it was:

Right Front / Passenger Seat: It ranged from the mid-40's at idle to a high of 70.5 dBA at highway speeds, hovering mostly in the low- to mid-60's at just about any speed above 40 mph. Mid-50's below 40 mph.

Right Rear Seat: It ranged from the high-30's at idle to a high of 80.5 dBA at highway speeds, a noticeably higher amount of noise vs. the front seat which is consistent with what my wife Debbie observed when she rode in that seat a couple weeks back. Given how close the rear seat is to the rear wheels and acoustics under and around the cargo box, the higher sound levels are what you'd expect. I'm also expecting a big drop in the rear seat noise once the back wall, riser and floor are sound insulated.

Left Rear Seat: Similar to the right, but the high was only 76.4 dBA, which could be because the fuel tank sits on the left side of the truck and likely attenuates some of the rear road/tire/axle noise.

For today's drive, here's what I found:

Right Front / Passenger Seat: It ranged from the high-30's at idle to a high of 63.5 dBA at highway speeds, hovering mostly in the mid- to high-50's at just about any speed above 40 mph. High-40's to low-50's below 40 mph.

Right Rear Seat: It ranged from the mid-30's at idle to a high of 70.2 dBA at highway speeds, hovering in the low- to mid-60's most of the time.

Left Rear Seat: Didn't bother checking, as the results were presumed to be consistent with the right side, front & rear passenger seats.

Bear in mind, just at low idle with the windows closed these trucks normally develop about 42-45 dBA, which is on par with the noise in your average kitchen with appliances running. We have an air purifier / ionizer in our kitchen that raises our ambient noise level to about 50 dBA. A hand-clap in the kitchen will score about 85 dBA. So, this is the sound pressure range we're dealing with in the cab of the truck. As another point of reference, your heater fan will generate a lot more dBA than your sound system when played at normal listening levels. To move the sound meter above, say 80 dBA, in the cab of the truck moves the music into the really loud / turn that shit down level.

Bottom Line: Getting a 10% reduction in sound level dBA is not insignificant. Moreover, if you bound the observed dBA range from the baseline test between just the low to high observed levels to something on the order of 35 to 45 dBA, seeing reductions at the high end of 10 dBA is about a 25% reduction to the dynamic sound pressure levels in the cab.

My Analysis: Again, going on what I learned during my research on this subject which is best summed up in a very concise article at a practical level on the Sound Deadener Showdown website, it takes more than just using one type of material or technique to attack noise in a vehicle. Going from my experience in other areas dealing with wavelengths, you'll always be hard-pressed to do much about low-frequency noise in any vehicle application: low-frequency = long bandwidth and there's just no room for thick sound deadening materials. It's those low frequencies that typically drive a lot of the measured dBA's, but those frequencies are not the ones that typically get on your nerves or that you'd like reduced: it's the higher, shorter bandwidth frequencies and that's where this particular application of 25% vibration dampening with something like Noico 80 Mil or Dynamat & Butyl rope + >80% blockage of airborne sound using 1/8" (1lb per sq in) mass loaded vinyl (MLV) bonded to a decoupler like 1/8" neoprene will yield some good results. 100% blockage just isn't possible in an automobile cabin for a variety of reasons:

Certain structures and shapes just don't lend themselves to applying a 1/4" layer of semi-ridged MLV & neoprene such as the raised reinforcing ribs under the front seats of the Tacoma.

The material must nest in behind interior trim pieces to allow the outer perimeter of the trim as well as fasteners to contact the sheet metal, often time requiring cutting down molded-in plastic spacers on trim pieces or just surrendering to leaving untreated structure behind difficult trim pieces, e.g., the back corners of the double cab and footwell kick panels.

Certain spaces behind trim and under carpet do not allow for any additional material stack height such that full, side-wall-to-sidewall floor coverage isn't possible, e.g., I had to trim back the MLV from under the B-Column trim so that it could be reinstalled and there is zero clearance between the seats and transmission tunnel such that even the seat mounting rails had to be pressed down into position to get the mounting holes aligned with the threaded bosses in the floor. The plastic storage bin is still a work in progress where hopefully compression under the rear seats will continue to push the bin further into the sound control materials to reduce the stack height such that the pressed-in fasteners will actually hold tight.

Many sheet metal surfaces are simply not accessible / practical to treat due to other structure, wiring, control and related equipment, e.g., firewall behind the dash, roof panels on trucks with the moonroof.

Windows are the true limiting factor; they're like screen doors for all but the higher frequency noises, they reflect & amplify all noise within the cabin and there's no practical / affordable way to treat them. Case in point, just opening the moonroof shade increases the observed dBA by 5 dBA.

Just the overall difficulty factor / limitations of the materials in general. I'd score this type of installation as a 7 or 8 on a scale of 10 for even the most experienced do-it-yourself types. None of skills or tools required to full disassemble and remove the interior of a vehicle are overly complex. They just require patience, research & reference materials so you don't tear-up or short-circuit anything, a good memory or detailed photos to aid in reassembly and prior experience working with automobiles in general and interiors, such as having done stereo system installations, etc. As for working with the sound control materials, no real experience is needed for Noico / Dynamat installation: it's even easier than putting up wallpaper, which is also true of Butyl rope. The MLV and neoprene requires a different set of skills and experience working with auto or some other type of upholstery, building speaker boxes, etc. But, if you've done auto restorations or resto-mods, it's not a big deal: it's just work.

The End.
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SEAT SPACERS / BED CUBBY CAPS

In other news, I received my aluminum spacers from Dennis (aka, olecoot) yesterday just in time for the front seat reinstallation just days after ordering them via PayPal. Given that I just installed a 1/4" of sound insulating materials in the floor, the bushings also helped to correct the seat rail height and disappeared in the carpet; perfect!!

Arriving and getting installed today were the Bed Cubby Cabs from Mike (aka, micawillia) also mere days after sending in the order form. They were exactly what I needed to seal-up the storage bins in the bed; saved me the time, effort and expense of trying to fabricate something similar. This is doubly important for me in that our bed is dried-in with a topper and lined with a BedRug, so no need to have uninvited dust and moisture thrown up by the rear wheels migrating into the bed! Great product. I went belt and suspenders and over-taped the caps with Gorilla Tape for the long-haul.

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Nice job.

These end caps are available from Toyota to fill in the small gaps at each end of the Factory header rail.

HelloMyNameIs · Jan 23, 2019

Soul Surfer said: ↑

Nice job.

These end caps are available from Toyota to fill in the small gaps at each end of the Factory header rail.

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Do you know if these come as a pair? I don't see that stated on toyotapartsdeal.com.

HelloMyNameIs · Jan 23, 2019

tandemgeek said: ↑

No, they are two different part numbers and sold separately @ ~$26/each side plus tax, see below. 62542-04010 & 62541-04010

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Thanks!

CoastieRon · Jan 23, 2019

Tacoma1845 said: ↑

I called and raised hell too, to the service manager. He said he was going to see who worked on my truck and have a talk with them. He also offered to clean it, but at that moment I was so pissed I pulled it off and cleaned it myself. He also told me the next time I bring it in to deal directly with him. This was the first time I've ever had someone change the oil in my vehicle and may be the last.
Click to expand...

This is what they did to mine:

They made a mess, put the access cover back upside down and backwards AND lost a screw.

Soul Surfer · Jan 23, 2019

HelloMyNameIs said: ↑

Do you know if these come as a pair? I don't see that stated on toyotapartsdeal.com.
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As mentioned and in the first picture they have different part numbers for each side.

tandemgeek said: ↑

No, they are two different part numbers and sold separately @ ~$26/each side plus tax, see below. 62542-04010 & 62541-04010

Click to expand...

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