Are my outer tie rod ends worn?

https://youtu.be/w6jde-OWD-0

Steering wheel is locked. There’s play in the steering when grabbed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock postition. Movement seems to come from the rack or maybe inner tie rod ends?

The outer tie rod doesn’t appear to move independently from steering knuckle. Is this play something to worry about or is it normal? I have no other symptoms, responsive steering, no noises.

I am ready to chalk it up as difficult tires. Many have watched the shaking video and told me they’ve seen worse. However, I don’t want to exacerbate a problem by ignoring the shakes and continue driving. I make regular trips through mountain passes at 70+ and don’t enjoy the shakes. I also don’t need some type of steering failure.

 

Shameless bump so more people chime in? Is my steering rack f*cked?

Edit: Forgot to add that movement of one wheel translates to the opposite side. I believe that points to the inners being okay?

 

I’m experiencing a shake too but I’m closing in on the issue as a stuck caliper piston possibly. I will be installing E/T threads and wheels rings. I recently changed my inner/outer tie rods and mine do not move like your first video at all anymore. They are stiff! However they did not help my shaking issues....



This pic was with old inner tie rod and new outer. I replaced them both though.

For reference I’m running Bfg ko2. And my vibration is at any speeds but randomly starts and mostly occurs when I’m over 40 mph

 

This is my next thing to check too. Have someone steer the wheel and check the rack.

 

I had a lot of trouble with my duratracs keeping a balance when they were newish. The place I bought them from just couldn't balance them period when I first got them. I went back three times and finally went to another place and they balanced them with no problem. I'd try another shop and see what happens.

I haven't had any issues for quite a while now, but I have over 100k km(62k miles) on them now. The wear seems to have agreed with them, but they're just about ready to be replaced at this point.

 

Out of balance should cause a bouncing, up & down vibration. Loose front end components should, more often, cause a side to side shake, or loose feeling. A new truck, or yours with new parts should have "NO" slop or looseness. Hard to describe how much play is acceptable. An honest front end shop may say, (1) Hey, that thing is tight as a new one, or (2) Yeah, I feel a little play but it ain't that bad, (3) That thing is getting a little loose, you may want to keep an eye on it, or (5) Yeah, that thing needs new parts now. Beware, All shops make their living selling parts, & doing labor. Some sell you the parts, install them for you, take your money, when it really is not necessary. Best way to find a reputable shop is word of mouth. Talk to your buddies & co-workers. Good luck

 

Am I looking for the rack itself to move? Which would mean bad bushings?

 

Ermm ...I was thinking out loud there. I read it somewhere in this post.

 

Thats inner tie rod wear, actually concerning amounts.

Usually to confirm I'll pull down on the inner joint/boot while rocking the wheel and usually the play/clunk goes away.

 

If that’s so, why does the movement transfer to the other wheel? I mean that the opposite wheel wiggles just like the one in the video

 

Have you tried jacking it up and holding different components while somebody shakes the tire, hold inner tire rods, lbj areas, uca etc. Sometimes you can feel it and if its an inner tie rod you can usually feel it.

My vote is inner tie rods or rack bushings.

 

Had you been up to 70mph before the first rotation and everything was good? If it started once they rotated, then one of the tires that was on the rear and now up front is putting out too much road force or is out of round. Even if your discount has the old style balancers, they should be able to roadforce them and give you a number. See which one is higher than the rest and start having them replaced or you'll keep chasing this issue. Goodyears are good tires but cause balance issues sometimes. Also, the tie rod play is not normal, you need new ends.

 

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried those balancing beads on these tires? My sister’s father-in-law uses them exclusively on all tire balancing with great success.

I’ve never used them so I cannot attest to their strengths or weaknesses, however I don’t think I saw them mentioned and it may be another avenue to persue instead of replacing the tires.

 

That inner tie rod has play. I recommend replacing both inners and getting an alignment. That play is going to wear your tires unevenly. After getting an alignment, rotate the tires and then see how it drives.

 

I will pull boot and visually confirm.

OEM prices out at $186 each. Any good aftermarket options...?

 

I have seen them used on larger tires. Some people also put balancing rings on inbetween the wheel and hub. I wouldn't use them on tires that small imo. If you're feeling something, either have them switch the balance type (dynamic/static) or one of the assemblies is out of round. There's balancing and then there's roadforce where a large roller applies a ton of force onto the spinning assembly simulating the weight of a vehicle and measures how much pressure the tire is pushing back at the roller. You can have the assembly rotated and beads re-seated but if that doesn't drop the roadforce low enough you need to replace the one with the highest amount. Ask them to roadforce and compare the numbers it gives out.

 

I have a buddy, who has balancing rings on his "98" Dodge Ram, 1 ton. He put them on the first time he put tires on. He swears by them.

 

I always use MOOG when not using OEM. Check rock auto, they usually have the best prices.

 

Some good info here. Seems like they have the answer for you
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/moog-tie-rod-ends-vs-oem.395702/

 

I pulled the boot and there’s no inner tie rod play. Which makes sense because like I said, both wheels are moving along with the steering wheel when I move the tire.

Let the record show, what @Pigpen suggested about torquing the lug nuts helped A LOT. I will attribute what is leftover of the wobbles to the tires.