AZ BS Thread 4²0

So the key benefit to bypasses is they are zone dependent. So depending on how hard you are driving, the terrain you are in, the truck will be able to perform optimally in all situations.

That being said, I ran my mid travel setup with no clickers and no bypasses for years without anything but a spring rate change. I only considered LT when I moved to flagstaff and had the cinders in my back yard which is basically a giant playground full of whoops.

If you are sticking with a stock travel setup, you probably don’t need to spend the extra money on bypasses, but I would recommend getting the compression adjusters if you are going to have varying loads. Another thing to look into is the newer internal bypass shocks. I don’t know how pricing compares, but that would put you in some sort of a middle ground.

 

Bypasses are always going to have way more adjustability and be better for dialing in ride. But your not going to turn tubes based off of where you are driving that day.

The clickers are cool, I have them on my tundra. I like that it’s easy to adjust them, but once I found where I like them I haven’t touched them in months. I probably would have just skipped them if I did it again.

In all honestly bypasses are going to be way overkill for you and for 90% of people who put them on these trucks. Most people don’t take the time to properly set them up.

I’m looking at running a 12” bypass in the rear of my truck now, but that is simply due to the fact that I forgot how much I like to go fast and I’m increasing the weight I carry in my bed quite a bit.

I would say at a max just do clickers. The more important thing is to make sure you get a 2.5” shock with a redo on both the front and the rear.

 

Call Shawn at Kent Metal Fabrication 480-232-9076 see what he can do for you. He makes my 1st Gen seat trim reinforcement plates for me.

 

@Nitori

Like everyone else is saying, skip the bypasses and go clickers if you must. I have them on my King setup now and it's worth the money IMO.

As for the spare tire, I mounted mine up in the bed with a Y-Strap and it works fine for me. I hardly move anything big enough to need the entire bed so the lost space really doesn't matter to me.

 

I don’t see much in the way of internal bypass other than OME which seems like they get a lukewarm review from most people, and the Fox/TRD pro stuff which would be nice but it doesn’t offer any height adjustment.

Makes sense. I understand that both clickers and bypasses are overkill but I really do want to experiment with sway bar setups, and having damping control is super important for such a vast change in effective spring rates.

So then, I already have Fox 2.0’s with clickers in the rear, do I upgrade to 2.5 or should I just get a valve stack worked up for lighter tires and bring them to you for a quick rebuild and hoses of sensible length? Certainly would be kinder on the budget!

 

Awesome

 

You know that’s not really holding your tire “down”. I’m sure t doesn’t move much, but that isn’t holding it in place.

 

King offers them, but not sure about an oem replacement for the rears. Definitely an option on the front.

As for what you’re going to be doing, the 2.0’s are probably ok. 2.5’s would be nice to have, but I’d try a revalve of what you have and see how you like it. You’ll save a ton of money and can drive the truck more to see if it is really necessary.

 

Nice man what did you score??? My girl attended one of those back in the day and got like 50 free meals of like 7.99 value or less. Lived like kings for a good minute.

 

Very true, mine is pretty well strapped down but it can still get airborne if I hit shit pretty hard.

 

Well I'd agree it's not holding it down as much as if I added some D-Rings in the bottom corners, but it hasn't moved in the last 2 years. I'm fine with that.

 

I’ll drink to that

 

Another good point I thought of towards keeping the 2.0's and re-valving is the fact that my wheel/tire assemblies are actually lighter than stock. Not only does lighter weight mean controlling a rear axle with a smaller piston is easier, but the valving they give you is probably assuming you're running taller AT's or MT's. So valving for 80+ lb tires is gonna be way different than 56-ish lb tires.

Plus I can get rid of those stupid length hoses that have been bothering the shit out of me since day 1.

 

It might suck to do some urban overlanding, but man that's legit! Shit makes me want to roll out there!

 

Favorite spot for a proper cocktail as long as it's whiskey

 

Where is this?

 

Magnums cigar lounge 7th st and union hills. Looks like a beer store from the outside but it's so much more.

 

I know exactly where that is! Use to wash my truck at the car wash behind the Walgreens across the street.

 

Never been in there. Going to have to check it out.

 

Unlike

Edit:

I don’t like Amar. I think he’s a crook.