Oil Change

Thanks guys and again, sorry for the repeat posting of this thread, I am new and still learning and I hope in the coming months or years I will be able to help a new guy ore girl, the postings are very interesting and yes I am going to get that oil out at 5K. I am old school

 

There’s 20W blends on the market. But, most oils shear down in weight, especially in 10k miles. That’s why most 0W20 oils are synthetic (full/100% difference is another discussion)

 

I changed/flushed mine at around 1200 miles & at 5k, and every 5k miles since. I also change my PCV valve every 2-3yrs or 36k. That may make me "that guy" (0W-20 full synthetic) but it maybe better than the "other guy". I'm guessing some of life's lessons are hard to shake off :/

Other guy...

https://autoweek.com/article/car-news/toyota-owners-spar-over-engine-sludge-problem

"Toyota understands that customers can sometimes be confused about how to properly maintain their vehicles. We're confident that this program will remind customers of their responsibility as well as reassure those who have had regular oil changes that they have nothing to be concerned about."

Toyota and Lexus owners manuals stipulate oil changes every 7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first, under normal driving conditions, and 5,000 miles or four months under severe driving conditions."

"I might not have done oil changes every 4,000 miles," she said. "I have some at 4,000 and some at 6,000 - but I have had oil changes. But they wouldn't accept my Jiffy Lube receipts."

"Similarly, Robin Burpee, a 38-year-old homemaker in Mendon, Mich., says she was refused warranty coverage for sludge damage even after showing her dealership, Sunshine Toyota Inc. of Battle Creek, receipts for regular oil changes. Her leased 2000 Sienna XLE broke down on the highway in November and had to be towed."

But don't read too much into it, if TOYOTA says 10k, you're golden.

Cheers!

 

Yeah you’ll never hear about the Toyota sludge issue debacle from 1996-2001 on here. Both V6 and 4cyl all because of lack of pcv(entilation)

 

A lot has changed since that article was written in 2002 talking about model year 2000 Toyotas...

 

I understand and I am like you, better to be safe, I should of posted a poll question instead of asking as I know everyone is different, I do not understand the flush part, My Dad used to run a extra quart through without the oil plug and let the first one run out, is that what you mean by flushing?

 

The flush is just a drain old oil, R&R oil filter & re-fill with fresh new 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Sorry for the lack of clarity

 

OK understood.... I am a electrician and by no means a mechanic. My next thread will be help on Intermittent wiper control, down the road I want that installed

 

True, but this has not changed...
"Toyota understands that customers can sometimes be confused about how to properly maintain their vehicles."

If it had, we wouldn't be having 4 threads every week about oil??

Just a thought
Cheers!

 

I'm a once a year guy, simply because I don't put enough mileage on my Taco. I'm glad I got it done with lower mileage for it's break-in period too.

 

Same here, my '17 Corvette Grandsport required first oil change at 500 miles to keep the drive-train warranty valid, it takes 10 qts of Mobil1 synthetic.
I've changed my 1996 Tacoma oil at approx 7500 miles since new and it's got 412,000 trouble-free miles on it.

 

Oil sludge issues like the Toyota 3.0 and the Chrysler 2.7 stem from design issues. Oil can’t fix bad engeering. We replaced many of those engines back in the day that we had maintained in house.

But you also have to keep in mind that oil has come a long way since then too.

Here is the nuts and bolts if it. If you want to know what’s happening with your oil...get an oil analysis done buy one of the many labs specializing in that. Without one the decisions being made are based on speculation.

I run 10k oil change intervals with high end lubes that have legitimate specs far exceeding that which Toyota calls for. I still back them up with scientific data gained from getting oil analysis done.

It’s the safe and smart play...

Many will say that one should simply follow the manufacture recommendations...and that's the smart play. Perhaps...Perhaps not...we forget that they make mistakes as well...and we the owners are often left holding the bag. A great example is the timing change and fuel dilution issues GM faced and is still dealing with on their 3.6. They had to recalibrate the oil life indicators on the effected vehicles shortening the interval...this after 10s of thousands destroyed their engines. Or ford changing the oil spec on the gas super duty 6.2 from 0w20 to 5w30 due to excessive engine wear. The list goes on.

I say verify it and go from there.