New England B.S. Thread

Going from OR to Pro is a bigger upgrade for the Tacoma than the 4Runner. The 4Runner Pro doesn't have KDSS and only starting this year has the option for the sunroof. Stuff that can't be easily added like the grill and wheels. But Toyota wants $50k for the T4R Pro

 

What's wrong with the dining room table?

 

Did you guys kick him out or did he run away ?
Happy Birthday @BostonBilly

 

Yeah, I’ve been doing my homework on that. One company was toying with a 480 kit! I’ve been reading that the Eiger jug has a thicker wall so it’d Take the 440 kit better.

Nothing, as far as I’m concerned, but my wife would likely off me.

 

Question for @Chasespeed and @Pugga and whoever about zone valves again.
We discussed my issues and I only ended up replacing the head and that’s ok now thanks.
The other one was questionable and now needs to go.
Went to Granite Group and picked the new one up. A plumber there said I can just use new guts on old valve body to avoid sweating it off and soldering the new.
Now my question(s) after shutting system off,do I need to drain boiler. Do I have to drain both zones as well or can I just close off the zone I just did and work on the upstairs zone only? Trying to avoid having to go through that process of bleeding other zones and make it quicker.
Also is there any complications I might expect?


Thanks!

 

The short answer is, it all depends on how your zones and valves are set up. For me, I wouldn't have to drain my boiler but I would have to drain all 3 zones down because there's no way to isolate the single zone and only drain that one down. All of my zone valves are in the basement, just off the boiler. You only need to drain the water level in the system below the level of the valve you're replacing. For me, my boiler is on the floor and my zone valves are in the ceiling of the basement so I could keep the water in the boiler itself but would still have to go through the full bleed procedure at the end.

For clarification, when you say 'replace the guts', I'm assuming that's the valve body that's actually in contact with the water, meaning water will come out when you pull the body apart? Mine, I can't replace the guts without sweating on a new body. I can replace the head easily, but not the guts of the actual valve but, every valve is different. Pretty awesome if you can avoid sweating pipes.

 

Happy birthday Billy @BostonBilly

 

Valve work, good stuff. I use to fix them for power plants

 

Happy Birthday @BostonBilly

 

Valves are close to boiler and overhead
First floor has two sections on that zone( front and back of house) upstairs zone is all by itself.
Motor is easily removed and four screws underneath remove guts. Will get water if I open that up.
Second pic not that great but the valves are behind and to the left of expansion tank and overhead like I mentioned
Two shutoff valves for first are to the right

 

Happy birthday billy

 

If you have a valve at the beginning and end of your loops, you could isolate that particular loop and not drain those. That’d help you some, but you’d still have to empty the loop you’re working on and bleed it. Mine doesn’t have shut off valves so it’s not an option for me, but looks like you might have them.

 

Ok looks like I can
Now , do I need to shut off water to the boiler?
Seams like if I don’t I’ll have a great big mess
And that seems like a pretty stupid question to me but I thought I would ask anyway

 

Near Newport RI.

On my way home from work I noticed a car stuck in the mud, buried up to the frame.

It appears that they had parked at a local walking path and didn’t realize how muddy it had become during the pouring rain. (Probably doing something nefarious)

They had been stuck there for a very long time. I turned around, drove through the muddy field (Hooyah Toyota!) and winched them out.

It only took 10-15 minutes, but I was astonished to watch no less than 100 cars drive by and ignore the desperate need of a another.

 

You should see if you have any of these down in the basement

 

Anyone have any connection for a deal on Milwaukee tools? Need a 7/16 hex impact just the tool no battery

 

Had no need for it so I gave it away

 

I miss those days sometimes..... Havent serviced one of those valves in years.
Last set was overhead on a CHW loop in a library.

And as I sit an contemplate a career shift, or a full in career change... I think back on the monotonous work... And realize its not so bad...

 

I wish I had a connection. Just got me some 12V stuff. Drill & Impact driver package and this awesome little 3/8" stubby impact gun. The gun is friggin awesome and I would recommend it to everyone!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...HuBcmtleNBZzC4M_S3saAj08EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Unless you have shut offs for all the loops before and after the boiler, and the shut off is between the zone valve you're replacing and the boiler on the supply side, then yes, you should shut off water to the boiler. I'm assuming shutting it off so just a quick valve anyways so there's no real benefit to leaving it on during this operation other than the off chance you'll end up getting really wet.

Nope,mpretty sure I would have noticed that head knocker!