What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

sounds about right to me. half of that is parts cost almost.

Think something like that from Tom Woods is 700ish.

 

Some questions.
Has the truck had any front end accidents that could throw the alignment off?
Do you have a diff drop installed? That will also throw off the alignment.

I have a diff drop on mine so that cause my plate alignment to be off. However it was an easy fix. I used a carbide dermal bit, cost about $15-20 for just the bit, and made the holes in the plates a little bigger, back holes. I also used some washers and a SS spacer, from HD, for the back of the IFS skid. I have both my transmission and IFS skid installed on my Apex bumper. I would align and bolt the front first. Then you can make the holes in the back bigger, use spacer/washer if needed.

How you tried contacting the TG in Fresno CA? I want to say that’s their main HQ. I been there a few times and every time they been helpful in finding a solution. I can see how not being local can be annoying dealing with big heavy parts.

I can confirm the skid plate hardware were not exactly correct, they still work but the bolt style was wrong. They gave me new ones.

They told me they are working on the ALLPRO products line and fixing them as it comes to their knowledge. They would pull batches/parts, recheck, and replace.

@Teke

 

Seems like a better deal than I got for replacing my one rear most u-joint. Cost me nearly $400 but he did have to remove the driveshaft and do some "diagnostics"

 

No front end accidents and no diff drop. I attached a picture to a later reply of what I am dealing with. If I align the rear two bolts I can clear the steering rack but none of the front bolts line up. If I align the front bolts the rear bolts don't line up and the plate hits the steering rack. It is almost as if it was cut short or the tabs aren't long enough, or in the correct spot. I have talked to TG and they have been terrible at getting back with me. If you call AP you now get a TG rep so there is no calling one or the other. I might just end up seeing if they will give me some money back and send me new tabs to have welded on.

 

You're totally right... I figure he's charging $120 for the CB (can get it for 70) and $40 a piece for the U-joints (can get Spicer for around 20 a piece)

What's nuts is you can buy an entire Spicer rear driveline (with CB and Double Cardin) for like 100 bucks more than what he wants.

 

yeah. Oh well. If thats for 2 drive shafts and includes balancing, thats a good deal I think. Though I doubt they need rebalanced.

 

I was curious about re-balancing them because they are salvage yard drivelines and I don't know their history.

 

Have you tried sticking in a fat screwdriver and using some leverage to align the holes? I've done this in many situations and it seems to work.
The bigger the screwdriver the better. here's a picture of wat I'm talking about. and while you got it in place you can screw in the other bolts.

 

Got my CB radio and Antenna all set up! Tuning tomorrow before I hit the trail!

 

Picked up my rebuilt Kings from ADS today, they look like completly different shocks

 

Damn son! That's good work

 

Power washed the bottom of the rig for almost an hour to get the clay off the dang thing! Wow -- looks like a new truck under there!

 

Nice, did they give you new bearings and spacers for the eyelets? Don't see them in the new pic

 

Yup, got em sitting on my desk

 

Tested out poser/mall crawler mode after installing king rears.
Going to relocate shock mounts in the very near future just need to find someone in my area that can do it.

 

My ignition key was going to come out maybe one or two more times before it was permanently stuck. Finally got around to pulling it this evening. Some creative filing and the removal of one tumbler, and it's back in action. I know, they are only $30 on Amazon, but I just wanted to see if I could fix it.

It'll go at least a year, I think...

 

So I have a squealing noise coming from the transmission when in neutral and goes away as soon
as I put the clutch in.

Is this a bad input shaft bearing?

The rest of the transmission works just fine.

 

It's normal squeak sadly. That's the throw out bearing

 

*raises hand*

Another member of the chirpy/squeaky TOB club here

 

So I finished removing the U-joints. Thank you @Adude and everyone else for the recommendations. A drift puch was much less hassle.

I also might have found the reason they were giving me so much shit last night.

I don't think the holes in the yokes are supposed to be egg shaped.


I may need to replace this one with the one I pull off the truck. Not sure if I can get the caps to press back in right.

Any recommendations?