3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

Don’t try to remove the orange caps, they don’t come off and you will do more damage than good. I just used some sealant for the 7th port when I reinstalled mine, never had an issue. Not sure about the red though, but the actuator definitely comes off.

 

Anyone know where I can find a 7th injector adaptor for the trd supercharger?
Called URD and they want 510$ just for the adapter it self. Thinking about making my own but would rather not.
Here is a picture of the part im looking for.

 

Damn that sucks...wonder why the want all that money just for that adapter. Might be hard to source one without getting a full kit, but occasionally I've seen used kits go for under $500 on here.

 

Yea I found a kit that was missing a few parts for a good deal but now it doesn't seem to be such a good deal anymore. if I don't find this part Ill probably part out out whats left of my kit and buy new kit from URD

 

I have a 99 with a first gen supercharger. Today I was trying to adjust the idle with no luck, so my next plan of attack was to spray some carb cleaner around looking for vacuum leaks. I first hit the 2 ends of the elbow circled in blue below (sorry for the extra red circle, this was the first pic I found that showed the elbow in question) I started there because the PO had a bunch of silicone smeared around both ends. in this pic it looks like it should be 1 piece with the square portion with the TRD logo, I'm wondering if it may have been cracked and the PO was trying to fix it.

Question: should that elbow be 1 piece with the "TRD" portion or are they 2 pieces? and are replacements of this part available? See blue circled part below:

 

There are two ORING gaskets that go on both ends. A lot of people smear silicone around the ends
when they start leaking instead of getting new o rings.
The elbow is one piece and nothing to wear on it except the o ring section sometimes wears from a bad o ring and hitting the supercharger


I just bought new gaskets and did it correctly for me.

 

Excelent! With all of the silicone smeared on there I couldn't tell what it might be underneath. Glad it seems like a simple fix, Thanks!

 

When you put both of the new o rings in you can put a nice coat of silicone to help seal then in better.

The top o ring can get damaged if you put it in and then try and take the elbow out again.
The o ring can roll out and get piched and tear.
Just an FYI

 

Thanks for the caution!

 

I'm brand new to this forum and I'm going to be rebuilding my SC. This thread will be helpful. Thank you!

 

Ridiculous

 

Just bought a complete SC rebuild kit from the high speed lab via an ebay listing they had for $119 shipped! Insane! Normally $169 so hell yes IT'S ON!

Stoked to get this thing rebuilt and reinstalled! I bought this Taco 2 years ago. The listing said "2001 Tacoma TRD Supercharged". It was in a neighboring state to mine. After paying a mechanic I found on Yelp over the phone to do a thorough inspection of the truck, I got my money together to go buy the truck sight-unseen. 4 hour drive later I got there to discover the seller had removed the SC and was not including it in the sale. After giving him some crap about false advertising threatening to bill him for wasting my time and money he relented and included it. It's been sitting in a box in my garage ever since. I just hope I have all the necessary parts to get it back on after I finish rebuilding it. Looks like there's a broken bracket on it in one spot, and the tensioner(?) has a stuck bolt...

 

I just starting reading this regarding supercharger tuning.

http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf

 

Rebuild kit arrived!

So it begins . . .

 

OK, I think we got this rebuilt.

Man, that oil S T I N K S ! I don't know if it's got bigfoot's ball sweat in it or what but the old oil in these things is putrid.

Took my time and went slow. Went through the OP's instructions, following step-by-step, starting with both bearings where the rotors sit. The OP's instruction to "bang them out the back" worked, but not like I thought it would. The one on the driver's side ended up bottoming out with 3/16" more to go and I was scared SH*TLESS that I was screwed. It took a nice chunk of the black powdercoat off to get it out but it finally came with some serious force. The rest was much smoother.

Fortunately for me, I had access to my neighbor's hydraulic shop press, and it took us a few times to get the nose cone bearings correct and the seal to not twist out in the middle, but it finally came together. I reassembled the nose cone and everything back together last night and put the oil in. Ordered a replacement serpentine belt from the parts store (used the numbers from the old belt), and I was able to unstick the bolt (you can see it in the photo above) from the tensioner pulley by putting it in my bench vise wrapped in rags and then pulling the tensioner 'open'. Bolt came right out once the tension was off.

So... new bearings all around. New oil. I received 2 x 4 oz oil containers... although the OP's post AND TRD's own instructions say to use 4 oz, so that's what I used. Guess I have another for my next oil change. Didn't need the syringe at all since I had it off the truck.

Once the belt arrives, I think I'm good to install this thing in the truck. The dealer who sold me the truck had removed the supercharger and put it in a box because it was making terrible noise. But he had advertised (and priced) the truck for sale with the supercharger. So in the end, I won and got the SC and parts in a box. So excited to get this back installed. The truck has been running rich since we got it because it's tuned for the SC.

I don't know whether I should get it re-tuned after I get it reinstalled. I think it would be wise to do so, since I live at 4500 feet elevation and it could have been tuned for sea level for all I know. I don't know the first thing about tuning these things, but first steps first I guess.

One observation - I thought with new bearings, turning it by hand would seem very smooth. It's surprisingly not. In one revolution there is definitely a spot or two where there is more resistance. Maybe that's due to the helix-type pattern of the rotor design?

 

Mmmm there should not be any resistance I don’t believe. Hopefully they are not hitting each other.

How was the thermal coating? Any peeling or wear?
Sometimes with new thermal coating depending on one or two layers the rotors kiss the coating and form a better seal.

 

So i took apart the used 1st gen s/c i got and man did the oil stink.
Anyways im not sure if these rotors are borked or not.

Some guys tell me to remove the coating and itll be fine while other guys tell me to get it recoated.

 

The coating is definitely shot and worn.

The coating is to protect the supercharger from heat,
The coating is a heat barrier and creates a tighter fit for rotors and cylinder walls
for better boost

Just do it right and recoat.

 

How would i go about finding a shop that specializes in recoats?
Is it just finding the right performance shop that offers it?

 

Sweet thanks man, ill check out highspeedlabs. i didnt know if there was going to be a core charge but i see you can trade in your old one.
Any idea what the shipping time would be on that?

Curious, how would the s/c handle without the coating?
Im assuming it would run hot as fuck without it and flatter powerband