Trd offroad stuck in the mud

Whats the cheapest and best way to get out of this situation? Like an inexperienced idiot, i decided to get the Taco a little dirty and ended up getting stuck...without any kinda recovery gear. I believe the frame was bottomed out so thats why i couldnt get out. Fortunately, a friend in a z71 was able to help out. Also i noticed the front drivers side wheel wouldnt spin? I have a 4x4 offroad. I thought the front auto lsd would kick in when i put the truck in 4lo? Do you have to press the ATRAC button by the cigarette lighter?

 

Looks like you learned a lot. I have been in a similar situation. I have learned a lot, not going to that again.

 

How’d that 3rd gen behind you do lol?

 

Straps of any kind even cheaper tow straps that someone else can pull you out with, best would be using a snatch strap. The auto "LSD" is all done through electronics with the ABS and the system locks the wheel without power up. This can only go so far it isn't a true locker like what you have in your rear diff. It can only do as much as the program that is "tuned" into the system. It's not meant for "hardcore" stuff but more for moderate stuff to help make climbing steep loose hills or rocks a little easier but a true locker is much better.

Don't know how fast you hit that hole but carrying a little speed into that situation and keeping that speed up with steady throttle helps. Like was said some good more aggressive tires will help but I've seen tires like yours make it through some sloppier stuff than that and some much more aggressive tires get stuck in holes similar to that. Mud is kinda the unpredictable obstacle when it comes to wheeling it can look fine then you sink to your frame and even the most aggressive tires won't get you unstuck.

Where were you? I see you're in Charlotte. There is a local Charlotte thread. There are quite a few of us that hit URE up pretty regularly when the park is open.

 

Front auto LSD? Open diff as far as I know unless something aftermarket was put in.

 

It's all electronic gizmos!

I like your name a rarity to find another Skip

 

A-trac works pretty good. Nothing would’ve made you get thru that on your own.

 

Cheapest is to learn how to drive in those situations. And yes, avoid obstacles. BUT, where's the fun in that?

Traction and momentum is key:
Momentum: Enough movement to keep you going forward. A steady 1/8 - 1/4 throttle and maintain that unless you start to spin a lot, then back off.

Traction: You lost it for several reasons, the ruts are deep and you picked a terrible line.
- Pick a line that keeps you out of the ruts, if you slide into them (more than likely you will) then back to momentum and steady throttle.
- Search for traction: Slowly turn the steering wheel left or right. If you obtain traction and the vehicle starts to move keep the wheel where it is and maintain throttle. Once you start to lose traction turn steering wheel left or right until you have traction.
- Whipping the steering wheel: Similar to searching for traction but you whip the steering wheel back and forth. This works in gooey slick mud and not so much in ruts.
- Once you slide into ruts, keep the steering wheel in line with the ruts, majority of people turn the wheel hard left or right which reduces the forward momentum. Keep the wheel straight or where it has traction and propels the vehicle forward or reverse.
- Another option is once you have stopped forward movement, reverse out. Use searching technique.
- Once you start moving, don't stop until you are completely clear.

As for the auto-LSD in the front. If you have computer controlled bling, you can use that. The computer senses wheel spin for all 4 tires. If a wheel starts to spin it applies the brake to that wheel to lock it up. This causes one of two options, both wheels on that axle spins or the other on will spin. The differential is a unique piece of engineering in that it has gears that allow for different wheel speeds due to the effects of turning corners. But this causes the "power" or torque to be sent to the path of least resistance. In your case, the driver side tire had more resistance and the passenger tire had less. So the torque will follow the path of least resistance and the passenger side tire spins while the other didn't. If you want to see this there are several youtube videos that demonstrate this very well.

Everyone starts inexperienced. Once you get a taste for off-roading, that's when you start modifying your truck and emptying your wallet and truly enjoying life.

 

Thanks for all of the input. Im actually in Charleston, SC now but still in the Charlotte area often. The 3rd gen isnt 4x4 so that was no help (he actually had to go get his wifes 4runner so i expect him to be trading in the Taco soon).
-mud tires would definitely help but i dont wheel enough to justify the added noise/vibrations/MPG loss/etc.
-Im thinking a Hi-Lift, traction boards?, good recovery straps might have done it?
-i thought i read that my truck has ATRAC in the front also meaning when the pass side tire kept spinning the brakes should have been applied and resulted in the drivers side to spin?

 

As far as I know, you need to activate A-track for it to work. I was pleasantly surprised how much traction I had with the rear locker & A-track engaged. From what I heard it will automatically disengage above 5 mph & reengage below that once t's been engaged.
P.S. A Hi Lift can also be used as a winch, it's a slow process, but it works.

 

Just leave the ATRAC on at all times / button pushed in. It only activates in 4lo. Does nothing when in 2wd or 4hi.
It would have totally helped you get 5mm further in this situation.

When was the last time you did a drain and fill on your rear diff? Might be time for one!

 

You can cut that yellow wire behind the glove box to trick the truck into allowing traction control in 4-low. It’s not nearly as good as a locker but much better than an open diff.

 

The big kids dig two deep trenches with their mud tires. When the stock tired guys show up they end up high centered because their tires won't reach the bottom. Once you are high centered no amount of traction control, lockers, or gas pedal will get a stock truck through something like that.

A man's got to know his limitations. If you want to play in the big kids mud puddle ya gotta pony up the $$,$$$ to become a big kid

 

We need a shoveling emoji for threads like this.

 

Well this is how it begins....

If you don't go off road that much look into All Terrain tires in a size or two bigger than what you have now. BF Goodrich KO2's are a good tire to go off, you can compare others out there. There are a lot. Look at width and height. If you go a little on the narrow side you can stick a slightly larger diameter tire without having to modify the truck. Narrow tires have their advantages and disadvantages.

I have used a hi-lift since I was a kid, that was back the in 1980's. They are great and budget friendly. But you can get hurt with them easily. Be careful and use them at home first. Learn how to jack up the vehicle using solid points on the truck. Watch how the jack reacts to lifting, then adjust the jack. Think about using the jack in that mud-hole with vehicle at a slight lean, there is a big difference. Also, make sure you get a true Hi-lift and not an import one.

Traction boards are great, get some.

Same with recovery straps, but you also need clevis's and places to attach them to the truck. Get two straps, you can them use the Hi-lift as a winch/come-along. You should get a tree-saver as well. I have done this many times.

Once you start looking at equipment, make sure you have a place to secure them to the truck. It is a bad day when things start bouncing around and smashing into things, especially the hi-lift. Roll overs, steep incline/declines, hard braking, big hole unseen in a water hole.

Start the build and make sure you start a build thread so the other can help.

 

Unless you have a purpose built rig, subjecting your truck to "mudd'in for fun" is an exercise in reduced reliability, longevity and expensive repairs. Depending on the dirt chemistry (ie alkali etc), you can introduce corrosive elements into every nook and cranny that was submerged. If you can't wash it off or out, it will be there for as long as you own the truck and will reactivate every time it gets wet. Four wheel drive forums are full of the consequences of play'in in the mud in your daily driver. As noted earlier, all fluids are subject to contamination, seal and CV boot failure due to the abrasive nature of "dirt" etc etc. Have fun and good luck.

 

Someone mentioned tow straps...do not use tow straps with the metal hooks on the end, those aren't rated for the kind of force used in recovery and the metal hook can easily snap off and become a lethal projectile.

Only use proper recovery straps with the loops on the ends and a heavy duty shackle.

 

BFG KO2 is the last tire I would want in mud,OP needs a open tread design with heavy lugs if he wants to play in the mud something like the Wildpeak M/T3 would be a better choice...

 

Very good point. But read the OP post, he doesn't do that much off roading.

In fact here is what he posted: "mud tires would definitely help but i dont wheel enough to justify the added noise/vibrations/MPG loss/etc."