MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Vacuum bleeding helps a lot, so does compressing the slave piston with the bleeder cracked, then tightening the bleeder and letting the piston oull fluid from the res.

 

Did you have to rebend the tube? Some early build 16s are reporting a non flexible line and had to rebend ...yours and mine are pretty similar build dates as I recall...9/15

 

I only had to bend the supplied line.i first connected to the slave cylinder not to tight, then gently aligned it with the feed from the master cylinder being carful not to kink it then tighten both connections.

 

Come to me knowledge and wisdom any pointers to this mod-

 

First clamp off the rubber line leading from the reservoir to the firewall,a pair of needle nose vise grips with some fuel line over the tips works well Go under the truck and remove the heat shield (4 12mm bolts) the one under the exhaust bracket is the tough one and a ratchet wrench is your friend
Next, loosen the fluid lines with a 10mm line wrench,you can then use a regular wrench and your fingers to get them the rest of the way it wont matter which one you do first.
Remove 4 12mm mounting bracket bolts and remove accumulator.

Dissemble accumulator and dremel a channel between the holes and reassemble. Take note,start fluid lines before bolting bracket back to transmission,having a little wiggle room makes it easier to start them and less likely to cross thread them

Or install premade line in place of accumulator. Tip get both ends started but do not tighten,a little wiggle room helps again tighten them after you have them both started

Place container/drain pan under slave cylinder bleeder,open bleeder valve and then go up top and undo clamp and add fluid to reservoir as it gravity bleeds so it doesn't run dry (very important) let it drain for a good five minutes while continuously topping off,then top it off one last time and quickly go under and close bleeder screw. Check clutch operation and reinstall heat shield and you are done.

 

Should note, I have the one of the last kits for the mod already in my possession.

 

You'll still have that ring that can flex, i'd just use the line if it were my rig.

 

Has anyone combined the ADM with removal of that return spring contraption on the pedal assy?

Just curious about the feel....

 

Good stuff ...... Thanks !

 

The one that gives the required free play

 

I dunno if it does that.

 

I beleave so .there would have to be at least one ,if there’s another one wouldn’t surprise me on this truck!!

 

When y’all say fluid... what fluid do I need for this-

 

DOT3 brake fluid.

..and you have a Sport right? That means your fluid comes from the same reservoir as the brakes IIRC. ORs and Pros have a separate reservoir.

 

Well, I can tell you that the pedal continues to travel upward after the clutch master cylinder rod is at the top of it's stroke. Mine was set up badly from the factory, so much so that there was an audible "click" from the pedal smacking the rod every time I pushed the clutch in. SO that top bit of pedal travel literally did nothing except make contact with the cruise control switch.

 

Yessir- 2017 trd sport...

 

To all that are doing this please wear eye protection. You do not want to get brake fluid in your eyes. On top of that there is probably all kinds of dirt and road grime under your trucks.

 

Any particular brake fluid I am supposed to get? Toyota brand?

 

To be sure, check your owners manual. It will tell you which grade and what specs it is supposed to meet. I think some brands actually say "and use for hydraulic clutches". You wont need much. About 1/4 of the small bottle will be more than enough unless you completely empty the system.

 

my return spring is removed, has been for months. ADM tomorrow, and I've planned to have him reinstall the spring since there doesn't seem to be value in keeping it off.