Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

Plenty of AT owners out there that would pay you to swap gears. I was one of them... desperate for 4.30’s because of my 285’s but also not wanting to commit to 4.88’s lol.
However, I’m no longer a candidate since I’m getting an MT

 

that was the question, in fact.

as was mentioned above somewhere, the serrated bracket to which the arm attaches is being redesigned. the vendor said it will only move a non-angled stock (9.8") arm forward about 1/2" at the ball, not much. but the extended length arm i need is non-angled and in the 12-13" range. for straight arms there is nothing between the stock 9.8" and 15", and the ones in between are angled and those won't work. additionally he said there's a lot of experience here regarding extension/coupling nut fitments, and there are no good options since the arm's thread pitch is too close to the extension options.

and then he said, "but the very last kit in stock sold 4 hours before your purchase, and the new bracket is at least 2 months out, so there's nothing for you anyways". CANCELED!

i am not willing to go so far to buy a core and get lots of little parts machined. so instead i'm looking for possibly other shifter options if they are as good.

 

Ah. That is really odd.

I'm kind of thinking of a single part attaching to the core with some

$13 M12x1.25 mm Self-Locking Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nuts, Pack of 6

M12x1.25 threads on the end. Yours would be a bit different than my desire: same angled location as stock or maybe an inch more to the rear and a inch or so shorter.

But, I would think this customization part would be easy.

 

@St.Germain Whats your current setup?

 

a new arm that bolts to the bracket and couples to the core? a custom arm with the right angle, length, and thread pitch would be the perfection i'm looking for, yes. but i would have to talk that guy into selling me a core without the bracket and arm and take that risk, then i'd have to employ someone like @7r41lbr34k3r to machine me both an arm and a knob. and i'm not even sure he's setup to do an arm... that's probably totally different from what his capability is. worth considering but not sure this is gonna happen.

 

You're on to my plan! I wanted to gauge a bit of interest and see if we can get just the core. Weirdly, it sounds like that last part might be the most difficult?

Rick can do milling and turning and . . .

 

wow. ok i'm interested to hear ideas when you have some time. the evolution of my truck is basically slowly replacing all the soft stuff, so i think we're on the same page about this. as i see it the next things to upgrade after the ADM is the shifter itself, and before long the clutch assembly.

 

Yep. That's my most common use of the exceedingly and diversely useful "clutch start cancel" button

God, I love that button

Show me an AT Tacoma that can run in full electric mode

 

I would hope he would be welling to sell the base only. For the 15", it wouldn't be to hard to cut out a section and weld the stick back together. All the fab work would be hidden under the shift boot.

 

Send it!

 

pretty close to literally rolling on the floor laughing

 

that's one idea... hey @7r41lbr34k3r what do you think of that idea? I'm just asking for your experience with metal. this sounds either like a great or horrible idea and i don't know which.

 

Really depends on the material used for the shaft and its weldability(e.g. cold cracking potential), but certainly a viable option if you have it done by somebody who knows their shit.

 

thanks, I'll take that as a No for now. not sure how helpful the vendor would be with that info. hasn't been tremendously helpful so far.

 

Tony and I had a few PM's about this today, figured the discussion was in here so I had a look. He can share all of that with you if he wishes.

We can design/make a shaft no problem (straight being ideal as it would be much more costly to make any sort of dog-leg), but there are a few considerations to be had before moving forward.

I would want to use induction hardened chromoly steel, but cheaper shafts can be made if you takes great lengths to care for a material that might wear a lot faster or even be susceptible to nicks.

I avoided at least 6 innuendos there.

 

haha the entertainment continues..

really happy with this, and thanks for looping me in, and thanks again @tonered

if i do this, and i probably will if i can get this vendor or another with quality to sell me a core, then i will not compromise the details. it's already looking expensive. and yes this would be a straight shaft only. i haven't taken measurements, because i was originally looking at integrating a new knob from you as part of this. the custom knob thing spooked that vendor, but doing a shaft and knob from one maker, maybe you, is a damn fine solution potentially. but like mentioned above, I'm guessing from the core to the top of the knob is maybe around 12-13". the trick is fitment at the serrated bracket fastening to the core, but this isn't a problem if i can get the piece in hand.

edit: and not getting too excited just yet. if i can even talk that guy into selling me a core it will be no less than 2 months according to him.

 

Don't let a thread stop you, I can pretty much do any thread. Looks like they use either 3/8"-16 or 3/8"-24 threads, both of which can be machined with the threadmills I already buy for the M12x1.25. My only limitations are depth, and I am really stretching that part already at about 2.5" deep.

 

ok. if this progresses I'll keep up the questions. i love the custom work all around but am a little shy to coordinate parts from different makers for obvious reasons. appreciate your openness.

 

We'll go one step at a time.

I am perpetually busy with knobs and spacers, but I could take time off to develop something that many would have interest in. Prototyping is my favorite, even if I have people's money ... so I know not to mix the two as I tend to hyper focus at one thing at a time while the rest of the world falls apart around me.