TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yes when I rev the engine, it goes to max boost when it didn’t used to before, by before I simply mean I didn’t used to encounter this issue, but recently, right after my check engine light came on for those codes, I also noticed the boost issue, at idle a/f ratio is 14.7, while cruising it stays at 14.7 as soon as boost comes on, while driving, 1-2 psi at times it stays at around 13-14 a/f for a little bit before going to around 10-11 a/f with anything more Than 3psi of boost. Hope it makes sense. I have 285/70/17 tires on 4:30 gears I have just the a/f guage boost guage and scan guage.

 

This is the trd tune

 

Sticking bypass. You make have replaced the actuator, but, if that butterfly is sticking/hanging up in the closed position, the actuator can't move it.

Did you futz with it? Maybe trying to fine tune the adjustment or something?

Pull the blower lid and see if everything is working properly with the bypass. Replace the gasket when you're done. PTR29-35094

 

Before replacing the actuator I opened up the lid to see, I cleaned out the inside while it was opened and my intercooler. Replaced the foam seal because part of it was missing and also replaced the seal around the lid, but it didn’t not appear to be sticking, I tried adjusting the actuator to the point where the butterfly would shut, just before the point where it would stick. This new actuator, I adjusted to to where it does not close all the way, it’s slightly open, I did this to try to ensure it’s not sticking, I’m aware I am losing a little bit of boost, and I will re adjust it after but it was just trying to eliminate the butterfly. Should I spray it with any lubricant or something? To make sure it’s still not binding?

 

It really sounds like a sticking bypass @mulisharydr, BUT you must rule out vacuum leaks, as unmetered air will always make an engine act funky, this issues amplified more on MAF equippe vehicles. Take it to a shop and have them check for air leaks, and then if that looks good, replace the stuck bypass valve.

 

I'm still a muscle car guy in a parallel life (2013 Shelby GT500), which is why I had to supercharge my daily-driven Tacoma. First-world problems, I suppose...

I have not personally had wheels widened, but here's what I've read and heard from friends who have:
- Best places to go are Eric Vaughn or Weldcraft.
- Vaughn removes a 1-2 inch wide piece of parent wheel, including bead seat and flange onto which the tire mounts, and replaces it with another longer/wider rim section from a "donor" outer shell. The (two) pieces are turned to interlock and welded together with a single weld. The finished product is machined to ensure a perfect true running wheel. Cost is $200-$300/ea, depending on size.
- Weldcraft cuts the wheel and inserts a band of material to widen, so no "donor" wheel is required. The (three) pieces are machined to interlock and welded together with two welds. The finished product is machined to ensure a perfect true running wheel. Cost is ~$250/ea, depending on size.
- FWIW, I understand both do excellent work, but Vaughn sometimes takes (a lot) longer than planned/promised

 

Yep the only two big names I’ve seen so far are Weldcraft and Vaughn. Another one I saw is Motorsport tech. People buy a lot of wheel spacers from them on here but I don’t know of their widening process. Also read Vaughn isn’t taking orders anymore but not a single wheel failure between him and Weldcraft.

Vaughn’s process seems better but no failure between the two so why bother with which is prettier. Issue I and most people have with widening is the cost and that it increases weight. You can just buy wheels for the price.

 

Agreed. The primary reason most folks do it, and the reason I gathered info on it, is they (I) want to maintain the vehicle's stock look which requires stock wheel faces.

 

I love the look of my ralley wheels but I’m limited to how wide of a tire I can put on the back....

 

I also know I can get the look a like models that are out there but mine are painted to match under my center cap. It’d be cheaper to widen what I got then to get a new wheel then paint it like I have it now.

 

You're in good company! Rally wheels are far and away my favorite on classic Chevys (e.g., Corvettes, Chevelles, Camaros, etc).

Wouldn't be the same.

 

I dunno. Big chunks of carved Al can be pretty awesome.

 

I’m a recovering BMW onset, but still have a 5.7l AWD Durango.

 

NICE! THAT is what I'm talking about! (My first car was a '69 Camaro, base model only so no Rally wheels for me, but I always wanted them.) Settled for Cragar SSTs...

 

Do you still have it?

 

Sadly, no. It had a lot of sentimental value but, having spent the first 30yrs of its life on the east coast, there was too much rust underneath to undertake the restoral I always planned to do - by the time I upgraded the stuff I wanted to upgrade and replaced the stuff that needed replacing, the shop told me I'd buy an entirely new car one piece at-a-time. After much deliberation, I sold it and my '97 Mustang Cobra to make room for a '13 GT500. I still miss the Camaro, but the Shelby is a decent consolation prize...

 

Rust.....it’s a motherfucker!! That sucks man.

 

Now we're talking! First car I ever bought was a C3 Corvette, all stock. Did the engine, trans, rear end, suspension, exhaust, etc. over the years ... man that thing was fun.
There's nothing like the rumble of a V8. Have you guys heard how laughable the new Raptors sound??

 

Gotta pay to play right? I’d prefer the stock look. If there was some company out there that could make me lightweight forged replicas then I’ll jump on that. It’s also a vehicle I’ll be using for other things, like wine tasting. So it needs to maintain a reasonably professional image.

Our roads are also shit. The potholes around here could crack a nice set of wheels with ease.