Long Travel BS Thread

Cool, that's what I was thinking.

 

I run 125. my truck is pretty heavy being caged, sliders, skids, and such.

 

2nd gen people that cut out your fenderwell, what did you do with the abs unit? Or does anyone know if you can get rid of it somehow? @Basikbiker i remember you saying you did I forgot how you went about it though, do you have to swap masters and boosters and run all new lines?

 

When I did my tundra I just removed the ABS unit, T'd in new hardlines for the front wheels and IIRC just ran the rear line to the second output of the master cylinder. It's a good opportunity to add a bias adjuster, but I had no problems reusing my stock master and booster.

 

Those of you with remote reservoir bypasses in the rear, how are you mounting your reservoirs? Researching mounting options along the frame.

 

I have mine along my frame stiffeners. Tucked up and out of the way.
But I guess I'm kinda special...

 

Haha, yeah your case is special with those cantilevers.
Might just weld a generic cup mount to the frame .

 

https://camburg.com/shop/fabrication/camburg-universal-4130-mounts/

Or these

https://www.kartek.com/parts/weld-o...-for-use-with-hose-clamps-sold-as-a-pair.html

 

Mine are just mounted to the frame with RuffStuff weld on brackets.

 

Fab a cross over, or buy one. Fab a mount off that. Or full engine cage.

 

Looking for some advice/suggestions. Here's the back story:

Had a DMZ sua, with 16" bypasses and a bed-cage, installed at a reputable shop. At the time of install, I was running a 285 tire on a wheel with 4.5" bs. A 1.5" spacer was added at the time of install. Taking it out and fully articulating the rear, I noticed the tire rubbed the bypass tubes. Soon after, I went to a 315 tire. Knowing it would really rub, I swapped sides so the bypass tubes face the bed. I thought this would give enough space.

After last weekend, still rubbing the bypass body. I don't do much flexy stuff. Mostly go-fast type driving and smaller jumps. I'm going to put on a 2" spacer for now, but looking for a long term solution. It seems if I can move the top of the bypass over about an inch, it should give enough space. (Driver side rubs worse obviously, see pics)

Question: should I contact the shop that did the install with their bed-cage and see if they can help with a solution, or even just to let them know it's an issue? Doubtful they'll respond, but who knows.

Thanks

 

Looks like the bed cage and lower shock mounts are off. Both upper and lower shock mounts could be easily 1” further inboard. Just leave yourself 1/2”-1” of clearance to the frame from the shock. I run 2” spacers and do a good chunk of articulating/ crawling stuff and don’t rub my shocks at all

 

They definitely tucked them in the bed. I know they can be in more too after talking with other guys running the dmz kits.

I'll run the 2" spacer for now too.

 

Did you ask the shop that installed it not to cut into the sides of the wheel well

 

No, just told them I wanted the dmz kit installed. I trusted their knowledge and builds, so let them do what needed to be done.

 

I’m already doing that, that’s why I’m asking what people did with the abs box bs or how they bypasses it because I can’t move it much and where it sits now it looks like it’s gunna get really friendly with the tire

 

If you’re having them redo it, here’s aomewhat of a reference to how far in the top can be. This is the DMZ bedcage and they have you completely cut the side of the wheel well to clear the shocks.

 

Is the whole thing shifter to the dravers side half an inch. I'd check that first.

 

looks like a solo logo on the bed cage, moving the lower mount wont do anything, that bed cage is what needs to move, put a 2" spacer and run it, only way to fix it without hacking up that bed cage.

 

Yea it is. The install is super clean. But I need functional. Haha. Friends and I were debating running another mount at the top and just moving the bypass over an 1” on the bed cage. Just a lot of work, that cage is tucked and no way to remove the bed to make it easier.

I was more curious on the consensus of getting the shop involved and see if they’d be willing to address the placement. They have way more resources and a shop. Haha