Need Shop or Mechanic for ARB Rear Locker Install SE Pennslyvania

Yes.

Both of my lockers have leaked through the seals twice. Constant blowing of air throug the diff breathers. This, obviously, is an internal seal failure, thus pressurizing the diffs.

I just put a Dana 60 in the rear of my truck. I opted to go with an air actuated OX locker (not an option for the stock rear) over the ARB. I’m kind of over ARB lockers at this point TBH.

After I installed the Dana 60, I was testing it looking for leaks. When I found none, I hit the front locker on. I heard the tell tale hiss from the diff breather, knowing immediately what it was.

Like I said, the front locker had just been rebuilt in Oct. That’s when I called ECGS and Chase told me about the current issues with ARB.

He said he’d be willing to swap in an Eaton E-locker, but they aren’t as strong as ARBs.

Since I’m now in the process of putting 37s on steel wheels, with weld on beadlocks, that are 130 lbs each, I obviously don’t want a weaker front diff.

I’m torn, but I think I’m going to give the ARB one more chance once the new seals come out.




Another thing to consider, is wiring your lockers to eliminate isolator switch feature.

You may already know this. But, the way ARBs work is as follows:

-The compressor must be turned on before the rear locker will work.

-The rear locker must be on for the front locker to work.

I rewired mine so that the front locker can be used independently of the rear locker.

I live in NJ. We drove out to Moab the last two years. That’s 2,300 miles one way...

The first year, my rear locker seals went bad while out there. It leaked so bad that it would not actuate, even with my 2.5 gallon tank. It would’ve been nice to still have been able to use my front locker.

This past year out there, I hit my bed on a rock because the rear slid into it (oh well, it was a good excuse to build the flatbed). If I could’ve used only my front locker, I believe the rear would not have slid.

Anyway, they’re now independent of one another. This is as simple as running 12 V directly to the switches, instead of getting the power from the other switches.

 

Good info, thanks again. I’m just doing a rear locker, so I’m fine with turning on the compressor first, also I can use air without the locker on.

It says there’s two o rings on the seal housing on the inside, I’m guessing those are the issue. If so, I’ll contact ARB to see if I can get the updated new ones before any install.

 

I’m still setting this up for the install, want to do it right the first time.

There’s others that have blown internal seals in the ARBs.

Are you running a regulator to the lockers? ARB says you can run up to 150 psi which seems extremely high for just two small o rings holding all that pressure.

Also, I guess my question is what’s the lowest psi that the rear locker will actuate?

I know this should really be in another sub forum.

 

Another member experimented with this. I would tag him, but he was banned today by @T-Rex266 for having an opinion.

Anyway, 97 PSI I believe was what was required to actuate the ARB. It was 90 something anyway.

This led me to moving my regulator in front of the lockers in the system. Only to find that the OX locker in my Dana 60 requires 140 or so PSI to actuate.

To answer your question, yes you can put the regulator before the lockers. 90 something PSI is what it should take to actuate the ARBs.

 

Thanks for the info. I’ve read owners using as little as 50psi, but this may be older versions and some years ago.

 

My ARBs would not actuate until over 90 PSI. For what that’s worth.

Put the regulator in, lift the tires off the ground, see what it takes.

I’d have to see it to believe 50 PSI.

 

Ok it’s just what I read.

If you blow the seals and the locker doesn’t actuate, can you still use 4X4 as it were stock?

 

Yes. If the seal blows, it just pressurizes the diff while the locker switch is in the on position. You’d hear it blowing out of the diff breather and your compressor would run constantly.

Once you switch the locker off you have a normally functioning open diff and 4WD .

 

Thanks again for the info, I’ll definitely use a regulator. Looking at the ExtremeAire compressors, they’re not much more than the ARB twin.

https://www.extremeoutback.com/product/14/ExtremeAire+Magnum+12+Volt+Compressor++Part#+007-222.html

 

No problem. Good luck with it. First I’ve seen of those compressors.