What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I recently wrote up doing this myself as part of fixing a front diff leak at the CV seals.

Photos and write up of the process: My Front Diff is Leaking (...and Fixing It)

As far as tools go, you don't need much:

• whatever you need for lugs
• needle nose pliers (for the CV cotter pin)
• flat screwdriver and hammer to remove hub
• 35mm (or 36mm works too) for cv axle nut
• 14mm for LBJ
• pry bar (to separate CV from diff)
• mallet (to whack CV out of hub assembly)

 

Anyone have any advice about a trans filter? The only OEM filters I can find listed (for A340F) look like this.

This is the filter I'm trying to replace.
Apparently there are multiple filters that have been used for the A340F. The only filter I can find that actually looks like mine is Wix https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-58884/
Should I just go with the Wix? Is it even worth doing an OEM?

 

Wix is a great brand, did you know they were the ones that made the first mass produced oil filter for an engine? Anyway pick up a can of Permatex Spray a Gasket (not the copper one) to help seal the gasket and hold it in place. That stuff is a constant source of joy in an otherwise crowded and messy shop. Great for other jobs where a cut gasket is used too.

 

I've always thought Wix was a good brand. Just didn't know about a trans filter. Hopefully this thing will be in there longer than I'd run an oil or air filter lol.

 

So...

My Carrier Bearing, CB stake nut, and one of my U-joints arrived yesterday.
The 3 other U-joints are expected to arrive on Sunday.
Ordered a rear main seal today, expected to arrive Friday.
I ordered the twin sticks today (not sure how long it'll take to get them)
Ordered a trans filter just now, expected to arrive Monday.
Ordered a mild shift kit, expected to arrive Wednesday.

Headed to Toyota tomorrow to order a trans output seal... And I'll check on the trans/Tcase bolts/washers and the nuts, bolts, washers for the front driveline.

That will complete my list of items to do the 4x conversion... This pipe dream may just actually happen

 

Did you do the tcase output seals too, they're a pretty common failure point.

 

No, I didn't but I guess I'll be inquiring about those tomorrow too.

 

They're super easy, same tools as the driveline and tranny output. Just need a seal puller, if you buy a cheap one (which is fine) file down all the sharp points on it so it doesn't gouge a mating surfaces when you dig a seal out

 

I have a Lisle seal puller. Needed it for the cam seals, crank seal, and the seals on either side of the diff.

Probably not the best seal puller, but it does a good job without f'n things up lol.

 

Ill get the distilled water tomorrow and hopefully the t-stat

The shroud is getting trimmed slowly.

I also got the burping kit

 

I didn’t, do those bolts go bad? I can just grab some grade 8 bolts to replace

 

Whomever told you there are multiple variations was probably correct. I ordered on from RoackAuto for a 1995. At that time, it was the only one offfered for A340F. It did not fit, plus it only had a few of the bolt locations being used(see pic). They told me it was the correct part. It was close, but it hit in several locations.

I ended up just cleaning the original real well and re-using it.

 

Fyi, Grade 8 are Standard bolts. You will probably end up with Grade 9, which are metric, IIRC.

Definitely buy the bolts from a reputable hardware supplier. ACE or Lowe's are my usual suppliers if it is just piecemeal stuff I need.

Be sure to verify the bolt lengths. If a blind hole, err a little on the short side. If it's open on the opposite side, you want at least the diameter of the bolt protruding past the threads.

 

After you replace that, put a Magnefine in line filter on the cooler return line, and never deal with this again...and get BETTER filtration in the deal.

 

Thanks I remembered it being simple

 

Do you know the part number for them?

 

Is this what you're referring to?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...tem,radiator+fan+clutch+bearing+bracket,11548

 

You are exactly right Ben, the LBJ bolts are nowhere near their yield point when torqued correctly.

They are M10x1.25, Gr. 10.9 (which is roughly equivalent to standard Grade 8). The chart you've shown is for "working torque", which is a little less than 70% of the yield torque (85% of the proof load, which is ~80% of the yield stress).

For those interested in replacing them at less than dealer cost, the same bolt is available at McMaster Carr for around half the price. These ones include a flange head, which eliminates the need for the captive washer:
https://www.mcmaster.com/95735a635

 

The clearcoat on my hood has flaked away so I black Plasti Dipped it. That has dried up and flaked away after half a summer in the WTX heat. So for $22, less than the rattle can PDip, I’ve tried my hand at a vinyl wrap. It was too cold to do it outside so I did it in my kitchen. Overall it went well until I got down to the front of the hood. I wasn’t able to pull and stretch enough to get the wrinkles out on my countertop. Lesson learned there and I’ll do better if there’s a next time.

 

Yes, you want the Aisin one.