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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Feb 2, 2019 at 10:10 AM
    zero4

    zero4 Metal Cutter

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    You mean Aisin. Asian can mean the made in China ones too. :p (sorry, I'm bored)
     
  2. Feb 2, 2019 at 11:51 AM
    Prayn4surf

    Prayn4surf 20 minutes late

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    Gotcha, I thought I remembered a discussion about this a while back mentioning they needed to be replaced...Looks like I stand corrected. :hattip:
     
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  3. Feb 2, 2019 at 11:55 AM
    drr

    drr Primary Prognosticator

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    It's probably not a bad idea to replace the bolts when you replace the ball joint, they go through quite a few cycles of being loaded and unloaded over 100k miles or so. That's a lot of potential for fatigue, stress cracking, etc. If the threads are in rough shape, or there is any deformation, they should definitely be replaced. I just wouldn't do it at dealer prices.
     
  4. Feb 2, 2019 at 11:58 AM
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    It's less Tacoma and more mod
    The bolts would be more ductile than the spindle right? So it's less likely that the spindle threads might deform but they could still easily be damaged by partial crossthread or chipped threads ya? I just wonder what's a more likely spot for failure. From what I heard the spindle is cast steel not cast iron so for all I know the flexibility of either is close.
     
    Digiratus likes this.
  5. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:02 PM
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    Thanks, I'll look into it
     
  6. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:06 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    I went for an OEM strainer, it wasn’t that expensive. I paid $32.99, Let me get you the part number:

    This is for a 3RZ, don’t know if it’ll be different from a 5VZ.

    35330-60020

    Toyota used Orange FIPG from the factory, not a rubber gasket. However I don’t really think it matters what you decide to use to seal it, but someone correct me if I’m wrong.

    Hope you’re doing the rear main seal too while you have the transmission off. Just as good preventative maintenance.
     
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  7. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:09 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    I think mine is leaking. I’m getting what appears to be gear oil coming from the tail section between the transfer case and the transmission. I neglected to change any of the transmission seals when I did my swap.
     
  8. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:10 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    I believe that’s one of the parts of the LBJ that are prone to failure, usually people like to replace it. The set I ordered came with bolts from Toyota already in the same package.
     
  9. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:10 PM
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've never owned a single Toyota that didn't leak from the transfer case somewhere
     
  10. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:12 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Well it leaks less than any other car I’ve even driven, so I guess that’s a good thing. Haha.

    The engine block and the top of the valve covers are covered in like this black soot. I think it’s the PCV.
     
  11. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:12 PM
    SwampYota

    SwampYota Strange things are afoot at the Circle K

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    Same here. Well, the leak anyway. First Toyota I’ve owned with a transfer case.
     
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  12. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:17 PM
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Damn thing wont come out20190202_121542.jpg
     
  13. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:18 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Is that the CV Axle?

    Gotta yank it hard enough. There’s a snap ring in the differential holding it in.

    Can you pry the back of the CV away from the differential? That’s how I would do it.
     
  14. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    This is the version I have with the flat bottom. I never understood why the A340E and A340F had several different filter types since they’re the same thing mechanically.
     
  15. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Ya it's the cv the damn thing doesnt want to yank out and I can get good leverage with my pry bar it's to long I think
     
  16. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:22 PM
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Theres room just cant get it to pop free
     
  17. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:24 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    If you keep yanking on the tube it’ll break the tube out of the “coupler” part of the CV.

    Ask me how I know. Haha.

    I found that the best way is to grab the shaft and the front splined part of the CV and pull forcefully, or just pry the back of the CV out to free the snap ring.

    I’d get a flat head screw driver and try and use that as a prybar.
     
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  18. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:29 PM
    burntkat

    burntkat Well-Known Member

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    Looks like time to get a slide hammer on the job with that CV.
     
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  19. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:30 PM
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    The front half of the CV with the splines yanked out when I tried that15491393692257414806355100059126.jpg
     
  20. Feb 2, 2019 at 12:31 PM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Yep that’s what happened when I removed CV’s from a junkyard 4Runner. Needed the differential thankfully, not the CV’s.

    Either use a slide hammer, or get something small enough to wedge in between the intermediate portion stuck in the differential to pop it out.

    I used a flat head screwdriver to do this.
     

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