“VOLVO MAF” conversion 1997 to 1998 3.4, supercharger upgrade,

Just did this on a frankenstein truck. 98 4runner motor/harness/ecu into a 93 truck. It is supercharged. The MAF I bought from ebay has a damaged IAT sensor so I will have to update this if I have any issues with a proper working MAF. But so far AFRs are good, 14.7 at cruise and 11.9-12.3 at WOT. Definitely has more pep.

So here is the ecu I am using to add to the list.

 

Is the ECM from the same donor truck?

 

Yes. Body harness is a 93, but ecu and engine harness are 98 manual trans 4x4 4runner.

 

That won't PnP into a 95-96 though. Totally different harness plugs.

 

Got my supercharger back from the rebuild,

My timing on full boost is 21 degrees for the v6

Yours should be higher than 10 pounds

 

I'm about to do the MAF conversion on my 97 3.4L that is naturally aspirated. By just re-pinning the wires, will I end up getting a fuel mixture error code? I'm going to put in the 99-04 airbox so that the air intake pipe diameter will be correct at the location of the sensor. I haven't measured the diameter of the intake inward of that section. After I re-pin it, would I end up needing something like this to correct it? https://www.urdusa.com/urd-maf-sensor-calibrator/

 

I have a 97 and I did not need any recalibration as long as it is it's the newer ECU from 97 forward not 96

 

Hmm. I don’t understand. I can’t even moderately accelerate without going under 20 degrees.

 

Also what rpm was this at?

 

My timing at full boost varies a little but around 20-21 at full boost at 5000 rpms.

If your in single digits at full boost your missing out on a lot of power.

 

I've recently had an issue that i've been chasing my tail on, that relates to a few of these symptoms that you guys have posted about (knock CEL, wacky FT's, single digit timing). 99 SC V6 with the "new" style maf (always had it).

After my truck sat for about 6-8 months, once I got it running again it was throwing CEL's for knock sensors. Replaced the harness, it went away for 2 minutes then came back. Replaced the knock sensors with "OEM DENSO" units, solved for a few days then came back. Trying to rule out buying $400 worth of sensors from the dealer, I tried cleaning my maf, checking for exhaust leaks, etc etc. which got me rolling a little better, but still not what it was.

Im starting to wonder about replacing my MAF sensor with a new unit, and wondering if the ones you guys have had trouble with (outside 95-96 ECU issues) are just on the fritz as well. Mine has at least 100k of my miles on it...

 

Ive put in probably 20,000 miles on my swap.
Zero issues, runs absolutely perfect with the Desno sensor

 

Question about the wiring. I'm about to do this and saw that there are two wires that are white with the red stripe. Which one do I reposition?

 

If I remember correctly you move all of them except the far right red and white wire,

So the hiccups I had with this setup was trying to figure where the tab was to press down to release the pin wires.

There is a tiny tiny single plastic tab directly under each of the tiny 5 metal clips inside the connector. You get a eye glass screw driver or a little larger and push each one down and then just pull the
wire out from the back.
There is a white plastic clip that you pry off starting on one side.

When you repin the wires each wire has to go in the exact same way it came out. The tiny prongs point down when you reinstall the wires. When you push the wires back in there will
be a click sound and it locks in. If these are not put in correctly the white plastic clip from the front will not fit back in after all the wires are repined.

 

I saw that this had given codes on the 96 and earlier trucks. Mines a 97, but I was looking at the label in the door jamb after we put it the body back on the frame and noticed that it was actually made in December of 96. 50/50 chance this’ll work without any issues? Lol I’ll find out after the frame swap is done I guess...

 

If you don't mind, make a note of your ECM part # and then report back if the mod works or not. I'm curious to see the results.

 

Well, the ghetto attempted fix to the oil airbox promptly failed. So now that I now the truck runs, I went ahead and did this. My truck is made 12/96 and this conversion works without an issue as of the last 50 miles. I don’t want to dig out my ecu but it’s a super easy switch and easy to reverse too. Took maybe 10 minutes total including changing out my air box and the air intake hose.
Thank you so much for this thread! Saved me so much money and wasted time!

 

Just ordered the Volvo MAF duct and the Denso MAF linked above, but was wondering if anyone has any concerns about these Ebay MAFs selling for $20 or less? Seems like the Toyota price is around $150, how can these Ebay sellers sell them for that much cheaper?

 

That’s the seller I got mine from last year, zero issues,

He has sold 500 plus of these with no neg feedbacks, comes In The Toyota box too

 

Awesome, that's very reassuring, thank you! Can't wait to do this mod!