App for truck stats?

So same as second gens then. Just a low pressure switch. Then the only way to go is something like a sandwich plate under the oil filter to read pressure from... Bummer

 

@Tacoma3rdGen do you know any tricks about the battery voltage output? Mine has never gone over 13.0 volts and I feel like its not reading the alternator output.

I am impressed with your utilization of the app. I find that it is a bit overwhelming sometimes. Especially since I seem to always seem to be driving when I want to fool with it.

 

Thanks... I haven’t fooled around with the voltage outputs yet, but I’ll play with it tomorrow and get back to you. Have you compared your fusion readings with the vehicle’s actual battery and alternator output using a meter? I’ll check that as well..

 

Yeah. I was getting 13.5-13.6 with a meter at the battery.

 

So I made a dashboard with all of the battery and alternator output PID displays for the Toyota specific pack; from left to right, and top to bottom (no edits made to labels):

+B Voltage Value (from Network A Combination meter menu)
+BM Voltage (from Engine menu)

Alternator Voltage - Non Active Test (from Engine menu)
Voltage of Alternator (from Engine menu)

BATT Voltage (from Engine Menu)
Battery Voltage (from Engine Menu)

Below screen shot after connection to OBD2 and BEFORE engine start:



Next screen shot after start, and at idle for 3 minutes



Notes:

All values changed during the run time +/- a few decimal points, except “Voltage of Alternator” which never registered a value other than 0

“BATT Voltage” and “Battery Voltage” are two separate selectable PIDs, and show different values at times... but may be the same sensor, just software responding/displaying slowly during refresh of values (not 100% on that).

“Alternator Voltage Non Active Test” displayed 14.2 BEFORE engine start, but did fluctuate +/- 0.1 on occasion during run time

I’m not an expert on PIDs like some of our other TW members, so I’ll need to do some homework on what these specific ones are actually measuring... not sure if this helps your “never over 13.0 volts” concern, as I’m not sure I’m getting an alternator output either, although I believe the +B and +BM values are alternator related based on displayed value of over 14v. Therefore, I will continue working towards a better answer...

 

The PID currently assigned to my gauge is "Input voltage read by the scan tool". This is listed in the SAE PIDs tab. I dont see the other ones that you mentioned in your post?

 

I checked that one just now... got an average of 13.7v. The other PIDs use are from the Toyota specific “enhanced diagnostics” for a $9.99 in app purchase (must have pack, based on your model year).

Settings -> Purchase Extras -> Toyota, Lexus, Scion -> then select your model year

 

Just to clarify, what app are you running and which add ons did you get? Battery voltage is the main reason I will be getting this.

Just one of those old school metrics I grew up feeling I needed to be able to monitor. lol

 

I thought that I had that. When I go to purchase extras, it just says I have one vehicle supported by these “extras”. I do have the paid version on the app.

 

Check here:

 

Kiwi 3 OBD2 reader (Bluetooth and WiFi capable)
OBD Fusion app on iOS
Toyota 2018 add on

 

Thank you sir

That’s the one I had favorited.. good to know and have the thread to refer back to!

 

Sweet! I guess I didnt have that add on. I found one and got the gauge set up. When I get to go home this afternoon I will see if it gives me a more realistic value.

I have learned a good bit about this app just reading through your posts and trying to duplicate!

 

Also, it may be easier if you build a gauge, and enter the Toyota specific PIDs, Engine PIDS, and at the top (hard to see search box) enter voltage... then scroll down while looking for the ones I used.

 

OK. So it does seem to be reading from the alternator now. Which is better, except that I hate it’s only 13.6 volts.

Thanks for the help, and for making me spend $10.

 

P.S. I was hoping the “what gear am I in” would work. No dice.

 

That is the best charge voltage for basic lead acid batteries. The problem is that it prevents the installation of AGMs since they like the lower-14s. Oh well. . .

 

Well having two AGMs, I would like to see mid 14s. Solar is the equalizer.

 

Look in the Toyota add-in, Engine section, Status of the Shift Status / 1st,2nd,3rd,4th,5th,6th,7th, or 8th

 

The extra bummer is that the voltage is regulated by the ECU, not a simple regulator. It would be nice to slap a MOSFET on there somehow and run an AGM.