Taco (gen 2) write up...350k crossed & jamming to 400k

THE BASICS:
-2013 v6 auto 4 door quad cab white 6’ bed 4x4 with factory tow package
-I am the original owner. Purchased new at Santa Cruz Toyota (CA)
on Oct 31st 2012 with 2 miles on the odometer.
-Current mileage as of 10/1/18 is a hair shy of 295k & I put all the miles
on the truck. Of the 295k current miles, only 1000 miles was
in 4x4 (rough estimate)
-This Tacoma has always turned on, never failed & always got me to
where I wanted to go. Never any major mechanical issues.
-I have self-maintained the Taco for 295k miles
EXCEPT- tires/wheel balancing performed by
America’s/Discount Tire Co
in Santa Clara, CA & Bend, OR
-The factory DUNLOP tires the truck came with can be acquired
& installed for $400-500 by the above-mentioned company.
I replace my tires yearly right before winter.
Total cost for tires for 6 yrs/300k miles = $2.5k roughly
-My yearly maintenance cost- $1.5k (including a new set of tires)
total service cost for 6 years/300k miles = $9k roughly
-This Tacoma helped build my home in southern Oregon. Countless trips
to home depot & hauling materials.
-This Tacoma has safely transported my kids & I on countless
journeys/adventures
-I drive 50k miles per year
-The truck runs like new ATM, & in my opinion
better than when I 1st purchased
-I have not modified the truck, other than the paragon bed cover
(awesome cover BTW), it is completely stock
(even the tires- I go with same DUNLOPS the
truck was fitted with from factory)
-I only use OEM parts/fluids (except for gear oil- Valvoline synthetic)
-I live at 4200 feet above sea level in a 4-season driving environment
-The Taco has not been in an accident thus far
-I have spent roughly $40k on gas to get to 295k
-The truck has been to the following cities at least once if not numerous
times- Seattle, Tacoma (had to go home, lol), Portland,
Medford, Bend, Boise, Salt Lake City, Reno, Las
Vegas, LA county (too many cities to name),
Orange County (too many cities to name),
SF Bay Area (too many cities to name),
Sacramento, California in general
(too many cities to name), basically all over the
West coast!
-The truck has performed over 250 roundtrips from Chiloquin (Oregon)
to SF Bay Area (200,000 miles) & of these 200,000 miles
20,000 miles occurred in the ‘hero run’….this is where I
drive from southern Oregon to SF Bay Area, then turn
around & drive back to southern Oregon in one day. I
usually cover 800-900 miles in one day on the ‘hero run.’
I have done this ‘hero run’ over 25 times. So, this truck is
able to drive 800+ miles a day with no issue, over & over
again.

MAINTENANCE DETAILS/ADVICE/MISTAKES
-With a modest investment in tools ($300-400) you can have all the tools
needed to maintain this truck on your own.
There are no special tools needed, but make sure to
acquire a 24mm socket.
Most expensive tool would be a torque wrench.
This is the most important tool to own if doing auto work.
I truly believe my truck is running so long & so well because
I regularly (& possibly) over maintain the Taco & I torque
check all my work. Torque values for every bolt/connection
on the 2nd gen Tacoma can be easily found online.
-I have never changed front shocks or had an alignment.
The truck stops fine, corners well & drives straight down the road.
The rear shocks have been changed once at 150k.
Plan to change the rear shocks again at 300k.
-The factory battery lasted 5 years & when replaced was working fine.
In six years, I only deep cycled battery twice by leaving
headlights on without knowing
-The rear brakes are factory original
-I generally change the cabin air filter once a year.
-I install new wipers right before winter every year.
-I have swapped the power steering (as best/much as possible) fluid at
90k, 180k, & 240k. For the last 150k miles I have noticed a
whining noise that the steering system makes when yoked
far left/right. This noise was not there when I initially got
the Taco.
-I try & wash the Tacoma at least once per week. I pressure wash the
undercarriage during each wash. I have experienced no rust
issues. Twice a year I buff/polish the exterior paint along
with wet vacuuming the interior carpet. At 225k miles I
removed the front seats to reach all the spots that cannot
be accessed without doing so.
-I changed the 1st serp belt at 160k & again at 225k. I noticed a slight
wobble on the 2 belt pulleys at 160k, so I decided
to replace them. They were fine at 225k. I believe I may have
damaged them running the original serp belt for 160k.
-I changed the factory front rotors/pads at 150k, then again at 225k.
I am due to change them again at 300k (5k miles away ATM)
-I ran the tranny 1-1.5 qt short from 90k-240k due to my novice auto
mechanical skill set. At 240k mile service I did it
correctly using built in feature for DYIers.
You will only be able to extract 4-5 qts of fluid
of the 12 qts in the tranny when servicing.
-I only change the front diff fluid once per year right before winter arrives
-I only change the transfer case fluid twice a year (every 25k miles)
-At 90k, I only pulled 1 gallon of radiator fluid out because I was
unaware of the two additional peacock valves of the sides of
the motor. You can pull 2 gallons when done correctly.
-I opt to change the engine air filter every 30k (manual says 15k)
with factory OEM filter
-Again, with my novice auto mechanical back ground, I only lubed the
propeller shaft zerks 3 times in the first 160k miles. My last
U-joint starting clicking at 160k miles due to this &
I ended up replacing the entire prop shaft &
carrier bearing ($1000 cost for parts).
I lube all zerks now when I change oil every
5k miles (as is specs in the manual).
-I have always used the OEM factory oil filter (every 5k miles changed
with oil)
-At 500 miles I did an oil change using standard oil
-At 1000 miles I did an oil change using standard oil
-At 1500 miles I did an oil change using Castrol full synthetic
-At 5k I did an oil change using Castrol full synthetic beginning the
standard oil change every 5k miles procedure.
The 3 early oil changes were an attempt to remove engine
break-in particulate metal & shavings.
-At 90k miles I switched to Mobile 1 full synthetic until now
-I have always used 5w-30 grade oil
-I didn’t change air filter for 1st 90k miles. At 200k miles MAF failed.
I believe I shortened the lifespan of the factory MAF by not
changing the air filter for so long. I was prompted to change
the MAF due to an engine check light which produced
a 0101-error code calling for a new MAF. I tried a bosch
aftermarket MAF which produced the same error. I then paid extra money for the Denso Factory OEM MAF & the
issue was resolved.

COMMENTS/ISSUES/SUGGESTIONS:
-Windshield broke at 2k miles. I never replaced. 295k miles & still
driving with busted windshield.
-There should be interior b-pillar protection for seatbelt slap back
damage.
-There is no dipstick on the tranny, making the service of the tranny a
real nightmare. Major shortcoming in the R&D dept Toyota!
-Both the drivers left foot rest pad & driver left arm door rest broke at
100k miles. Toyota should beef up these major driver
contact points for long term rigidity.
-If you turn off car from passenger seat (with headlights on)
& don’t open the driver door the headlights stay on (how I deep
cycled/drained battery twice). The auto light feature logic
should be included on front passenger door.
-Minor electrical issues. The interior bulb that illuminates the gear
indicator next to the gear shift burned out at around 200k.
From 100k miles to 250k miles the driver side head light
Filament burned out 6+ times. I can only suspect water got
sucked into one of the wires (of the 3) & created a short
point. I ended up buying two aftermarket heavy duty
pigtails & cut off both headlight wires & replaced.
I silicone crimped/heated & insulted the new connections.
Its working great for the last 50k miles with no premature
bulb failure on the driver side.
-Strange metal on metal slapping noise that emanates from the engine
during light acceleration in 5th gear most notably when going
uphill. This noise is intermittent. When I first
purchased the truck, I feared this was a major flaw
& the truck would never make 100k, let alone 300k.
I guess it is the nature of this truck with double cab
& 6’ bed configuration. Many owners online complain
of this same strange noise. Most interesting is that
mainly owners of the quad cab/6’ bed have this issue.
My way to stop this is by shifting into 3rd gear &
working back up the 5th gear as the truck builds up
speed.
-Engine pinging in warmer climates is annoying & may damage motor.
I live is colder environment, so I have been okay on this I
suspect. When I travel south or during warmer
summer days I notice the pinging. I notice
elevation also plays a factor in this issue. Likely
why I experience little pinging, as I reside at 4000’

MAINTENANCE DETAIL BREAKDOWN:
500 miles (swap oil w/standard)
1000 miles (swap oil w/standard)
1500 miles (swap oil w/synthetic)
5k (oil change synthetic)
10k (oil change synthetic)
15k (oil change synthetic)
20k (oil change synthetic)
25k (oil change synthetic)
30k (oil change synthetic)
35k (oil change synthetic)
40k (oil change synthetic)
45k (oil change synthetic)
50k (oil change synthetic)
55k (oil change synthetic)
60k (oil change synthetic, new tires)
65k (oil change synthetic)
70k (oil change synthetic)
75k (oil change synthetic)
80k (oil change synthetic)
85k (oil change synthetic)
90k (oil change synthetic, swap brake fluid, 1st air filter, 1st spark plugs
1st rear & front diff fluid swap, 1st transfer case fluid swap
1st air filter, 1st radiator service 1 GALLON ONLY, lube zerks,
power steering fluid swap)
95k (oil change synthetic)
100k (oil change synthetic)
105k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap)
110k (oil change synthetic)
115k (oil change synthetic)
120k (oil change synthetic, air filter, spark plugs,
rear & front diff fluid swap, transfer case fluid swap,
radiator service 2 gallons, tires, tranny fluid/filter, lube
zerks)
125k (oil change synthetic)
130k (oil change synthetic)
135k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap)
140k (oil change synthetic)
145k (oil change synthetic)
150k (oil change synthetic, 1st front rotors & pads, swap brake fluid,
rear diff fluid swap, transfer case fluid swap, spark plugs,
air filter, rear shocks)
155k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
160k (oil change synthetic, 1st serp belt/2 pulleys, replace propeller
shaft/carrier bearing)
165k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap, lube zerks)
170k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
175k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
180k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks, air filter, spark plugs
rear & front diff fluid swap, transfer case fluid swap
radiator service 2 gallons, tires, tranny fluid/filter,
power steering fluid swap)
185k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
190k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
195k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap, lube zerks)
200k (oil change synthetic, MAF replace due to 0101 error code, lube
zerks)
205k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
210k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap, transfer case fluid swap,
spark plugs, air filter, lube zerks)
215k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
220k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
225k (oil change synthetic, front rotors & brake pads, swap brake fluid
serp belt, rear diff fluid swap, lube zerks)
230k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
235k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
240k (oil change synthetic, air filter, spark plugs,
rear & front diff fluid swap, transfer case fluid swap,
radiator service 2 gallons, tires, tranny fluid/filter,
1st battery change, lube zerks, power steering fluid swap)
245k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
250k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
255k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap, lube zerks)
260k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
265k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
270k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap, spark plugs,
transfer case fluid swap, air filter, lube zerks)
275k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
280k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
285k (oil change synthetic, rear diff fluid swap, lube zerks)
290k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
295k (oil change synthetic, lube zerks)
300k upcoming……

UPCOMING 300k MAINTENANCE DETAIL SPECIFICS:

1. Rear shocks $150 & Tires $500
   
2. Serp belt $30
   
3. Radiator fluid swap $50
   
4. Front brake rotors & pads & fluid $300
   
5. Rear diff, front diff, & transfer case fluid $90
   
6. Sparks $30
   
7. Air filter $20
   
8. Oil & lube (mobil1 5w30 full syn with factory oil filter) $35
   
9. Tranny service (gasket, O-ring, filter, fluid) $150
   
10. Remove & replace as much power steer fluid as possible $10

TOTAL COST $1365

SUMMARY:

This 2013 Toyota Tacoma is the best automobile I have ever owned. Reliable, fun, powerful, versatile, value holding, well-engineered, built to last, safely get you around in any terrain or weather scenario….I could just go on & on…. But the truth is with all its multi-faceted capabilities roughing 20mpg & costing about 30-35k, there is no better truck. Period. I am taking this steel horse to 500k. Maybe even to 1 million if she is worthy. Not only did this Taco take me places, It also took my novice understanding of auto mechanics to an intermediate level. Being my own mechanic is a great life experience & the Taco helped me achieve this new mental clarity. It was a challenge at times. The first brake job, swapping the serp belt, & not to forget the drive shaft R&R. Its been a great 6 years & 300k with this polar white Tacoma!



UPDATED INFO- I am currently nearing 307k miles!

 

thank you kindly!

 

Read this:
https://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/2...en-time-let/5hGKTE87nhRQJU8UY0UMeI/story.html

 

I see you have taken to changing rear diff fluid every 15K. I have thinking out doing mine annually which is about 15K for me as well.

 

Wow, real nice write up. What a great truck this has been. Keep it.

 

Also, welcome to TW.

 

Welcome.

Keep it.

I sold my bought new ‘07 w 351K miles and have regretted since.

 

Sounds like you already know the answer. Why are you considering a 3rd gen?

 

Wow.

The detail you have on your maintenance is amazing. Sounds like you learned/know how to really take care of a vehicle. Keep it if you're happy with where it's at (sounds like you are)

 

What do you like about the 07 over the 15?

 

Nice! Keep driving and see if you can break some longevity records!

 

Good job on keeping it going so long.... cant believe those front shocks arent hashed at 295k though...stock shocks even Bilsteins only last at most 60k

 

My history w it and that it was an OR. Only needed the locker a handful of times but it worked perfectly when needed.

I do like my ‘15 though but don’t think I’ll be keeping it as long. Hoping Toyota does something to improve the AT in the 3rd Gen. or I find a good deal on a late model 2nd Gen AC OR.

 

For your use I would keep it and run it. Maybe save the estimated payment on a new vehicle for a year and reassess then.

 

My vote goes to getting a new vehicle, whether that's a 3rd Gen or something else. Enough time has passed that the newer vehicles have more safety options, especially if you're commuting this much.

 

As an owner of two second gens, I'm curious of your tranny services. Did you drain and fill, drop the pan or do a full flush of the tranny?

All things considered, I say drive another year to see if you like the 2020 3rd gen coming out (3rd and a half gen?) and then maybe wait another year for Toyota to iron out the bugs on that revised platform. Plus, I'm selfishly curious to see how far yours will go. Good luck!!

 

at 90k, 120k, & 180k I pulled the drain plug (pulled out as much as possible), then I released the tranny pan/bolts....a total of 4 quarts came out (roughly). I replaced the filter held in with a few 10mm bolts & also changed the o-ring associated with the filter. I throughly cleaned out the pan & three magnets (while checking for major metal chunks...have never found any, btw). I installed a new pan liner gasket (factory oem) & refilled with fluid with a hand pump (fill point is up high on side of trany on passenger side of taco). I used my hand to guestimate the correct temp (around 140-150 f) to begin bleed off procedure. (when you refill the tranny put a in .5 quart extra so you can see the bleed off occur after warm up). at 240k & 300k I did the trany service the same but I used the computer to tell me when to bleed of trany instead of my hand (there is a great write up on the trany service procedure here on TW that can help any DIY'er & it served as my guide numerous times)

I have never fully flushed or power flushed my tranny (I understand that can damage sensitive components/seals). There is roughly 12 qts in the tranny assembly, but only 4 comes out at most during tranny fluid swap.

I cant wait to see the 2020 revision
& I would def wait until then if I was to jump into a gen3 taco

I want to keep going & plan to....its just nuts driving an auto this far....never had the pleasure to do so in 25 yrs of driving

 

I just got a new rav4 (2018 model) with new toyota safefy features so I feel ya on your comment, kinda why I want to get a new taco...some of the safety features are great, but a few are underdeveloped (like lane keep, rather go though the pothole keep)

 

they are starting to show wear at 305k, finally, lol....Im going to swap them once winter passes...I think I got my moneys worth....I avoid potholes like a religion, maybe thats why I got so many miles out of the stock original factory shocks....thanks toyota for building me a great truck!