TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Short 5 minute drive impression of TRD tune vs. URD UCON:

TRD tune is slow to switch to rich mixture on boost (from watching my boost gauge and wideband AFR). In 5th gear it even waits to 5psi.
Stoic to rich transition is much smoother than URD, which is almost an on/off switch in comparison. Rich to stoic equally as smooth.
No audible knocking on boost when stoic or rich.
URD likes to go to 10.5-11 AFR on boost. TRD is more like 11.5.
*best part* Cold start crank time is so much shorter on TRD. No sync-up time like the URD.

So far, TRD is like an iPhone. It just F'n Works. URD is more like a cranky version of Android.

This is just my truck and observations so far. After some good driving, I'm sure my spark plugs and tail pipe will tell the truth.

 

I originally had no cats at all and the smell was a bit annoying. A 3" cat was added after the merge when @Roostfactor made my Y-pipe equal length. It still has a smell to it, but it is much less noticeable.

 

My UCON isn't nearly as cranky as some of the other guys have reported, but you're pretty much spot on.

I think the TRD tune holding off on enrichment isn't a bad thing really. My UCON does that as well, but it switches a little sooner. Scott told me once that when to switch from stoich to enrichment is more a function of engine load than boost. Which is why we sometimes see 5lbs of boost before its starts dumping fuel in.

 

Just got these badboys today. The question now is what locations are you guys running the stock o2 sensors? With 2 bungs on each header and 3 more on the urd ypipe (one for afr gauge), that's 2 extra bungs for stock sensors.
I think most with the the JFR ypipe have the rear stock sensor bungs in the ypipe too correct? Should I plug the forward-most bungs on each side of the header? Not really fond of an unused potential leak source.

 

@JacksonTacoma Which headers are those?

The thing I don't like is when I'm freeway cruising at 78 or so, and I go up a slight hill and it goes rich. When it flattens out the load is still high even though it is back running in a slight vacuum. Then it stays rich until I knock the cruise down 1mph or so or kill it completely and coax it back to where I want to be. Really annoying.

I think that's the main problem for the supercharged tune. It would be sooooo much easier to properly tune it with a MAP sensor instead of guessing (or 'calculating') what the engine load is.

 

@Voodoo Rufus URD equal length 12-15

 

Nah man. That would be way too much work. I think all tacoma TRD sport models are 4x4. I like having 6 speed manual trans, 4x4 if I choose, being low and fast

 

Get some extenders and put the wide band at the header merge. Plug the first port in the mid tubes. JFR has them where ever you order them, but at a minimum there will be two ports for the down stream o2's

 

Nice. I just know there was someone who swapped in a Sequoia center diff onto their Tundra to make it full time AWD. Was wondering if the same was possible on the Tacoma.

 

I’m sure it could be. But I’d never want to run AWD all the time. I like my LSD on clear dry roads.

 

That's how my current setup is: sensor at the ST header merge, cat, then downstream sensor and afr in ypipe.
It seems the mid tube bung on these headers is a poor location for an afr sensor if that's what the intention was

 

Mine are at the collectors. With plugs in the forward holes.

We could go with a stand alone ECU. @Torspd knows a little about that route.

 

I think its there mainly because that would mimic the stock sensor location in the stock manifold before the cat. The long tube's merge is so much lower than the stock merge and wide band location, that most folks need extenders.

 

This sums it up pretty well from my experiences as well with the TRD tune and UCON. What pulley size are you running?

 

I feel like the FJ's manual setup is full time all wheel drive. That seems like it would be pretty similar to the tacoma as almost everything else is shared.

 

Gotcha. Just read through the instructions and the front o2s can go in either header bung. Now I'm thinking why not run both the up and down o2s in the header locations and not need any bungs installed on the primaries of my JFR ypipe except for the AFR sensor in the ypipe merge. No need for plugs

 

The more holes in the pipes the more bung plugs they can sell ya.

 

I wouldn't do that. The merge is a better location for the wide band, as it feeds back information that effects A/F ratio. The merge will give you a sampling of all three, while being slightly further away from the heat source. That's where you want your sensors. If you install your stock wide bands in the upper bung, the truck only sees what the middle cylinder is doing. Make sure you get your y pipe with at least the two leading bungs for the stock o2s. You can always plug them if you don't use them.

 

I thought about that but it would be interesting to know how much afr variation this is from cylinder to cylinder and if it fluctuates enough to matter reading one cylinder or all 3. Also curious just how much those sensors affect afr adjustments for each side of the motor. Are they limited in adjustment range per say.
You're right that the safest bet is the upstream sensor in the merge.

 

Be aware with urd headers the collector o2 bung is very close to the trans lines. The nut can be loosened and the lines can be manipulated. Dont try and bend the lines without backing the nut off. Ask me how I know....