Home Improvement Today?

I love how when you look for an item on ebay and you find what you are looking for and the ad for the item says "or best offer". You submit a reasonable offer and the seller counteroffers a price of a whopping savings of $1.06...Granted the item is only $43 but wow how generous...$1 off. But if you buy two similar items from a different person its $37 each...lol.

 

I have some of their tools. but for sawzall, I go with Milwaukee or Rigid. Ive used both and they take some abuse. But are well worth the money, I had a harbor freight sawzall and it didnt last but maybe 2 small projects before burning up.

 

Funny you should mention about the sawzall, I borrowed my neighbors vintage (overbuilt/high-quality Milwaukee sawzall). I was replacing the roof on my garage and was really working his sawzall hard on some sheathing and was smoking the wood, after that he bought me a new Harbor Freight sawzall and I agree about the quality difference.

 

I wasn't abusing the Milwaukee Sawzall and I think it was just the blade being dull, with it being the first time using one too. My neighbor is 85 years old, I cut his grass in the summer and shovel his driveway in the winter, so I think that was his way of thanking me with the Sawzall.

 

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-10-in...AxtN&cjevent=a67aca7a2c9711e9826f01b10a1c0e14

Ended up buying the kobalt above there were some features I really liked because of ease and speed of enacting them. I did have a slight buyers remorse when I saw the rigid 12" compound sliding dual bevel that can make 70* miter cuts but for the extra $150 I didn't feel like making the step up because I'm not going to be attempting to use this to make a living just to tinker around my home. I alsoam going to be building a rolling woodworking table like others have. Posting pictures soon.

 

Next project

Glueing the 4 legs. I'll screw them together after it tries

 

I work as a mechanical engineer up here in Alaska and heat pumps are super rare. I can only think of maybe one or two installations in the past two years where we’ve used a heat pump. And it was purely to appease some “energy efficiency” standards where on the surface heat pumps look great. Until you realize that they’re gonna be operating at terrible efficiencies because of the colder outside temperatures. I wouldn’t put one in anywhere that has a “real” winter u less you could do gas or oil supplemental heating. Most times electricity is way too expensive to do electric supplemental heating

 

Cute van.

 

What all do you work on anyway?

 

Question for wiring an exterior light.

I have a metal junction box and romex with hot neutral and ground coming into the box. The fixture has hot, neutral and a small bare copper ground.

The fixture has a mounting bracket with a green grounding nut.

Am I sufficiently grounded if I connect the hot, neutral and ground to the hot neutral and ground on the fixture. And leave the green grounding nut on the mounting bracket untouched?

I’m thinking this is okay since the box is metal and grounded and the metal fixture is on the mounting bracket connected to the box.

 

Garage questions again... so I the property I will have here soon has a new garage, unfinished, just sticks and exterior walls.

Questions:
How would I...

-best insulate the walls?

-best insulate the ceiling?

-build a storage space in the attic space?

-heat? Most efficient? Gas and electric options?

-wall board thickness? Ceiling thickness? Sheetrock? Alternatives?

Thanks guys. Just so many options out there and endless info when you use google.

 

I used pressure treated siding for interior walls. You can see my post a few weeks ago in this thread. That way you don’t need to worry about getting it wet or the humidity etc

 

Is the roof framing rafters or trusses ?

 

Bare copper goes to the green nut and connected to the other ground wires. That’s what it is there for. Safety!

 

Right, but if you connect that to the ground in the romex and circumvent the green nut, aren’t you technically still grounded?

 

Trusses

 

So the attic area is unlikely to have been designed for any heavy loading on the bottom truss chords

If you plan on trying to keep it warm in the winters you guys get , just forget the attic storage idea and insulate the walls to code with fibreglass batts or Rockwool batts and do blown in fibreglass or cellulose in the attic space , minimize any penetrations through the vapour barrier in the ceiling , ie no potlights and if code requires an attic access , make sure it is air tight and insulated

 

Yes precisely.
I wasnt looking for heavy weight storage. Basically a couple empty coolers and camping gear. More or less just concerned about how much loss of insulation I would get by slapping a couple sheets of plywood down on blown in insulation.

Thanks

 

Blown in insulation needs to remain uncompressed in order to be effective so for small items you could build a suspended platform near your attic access as long as the full depth of insulation was uneffected by the platform or access to it