Colorado B.S. Thread

I just became aware (as in fully aware, as in OMG H*ly Sh*t aware) of the rust issue last week. The kind service lady @ Autonation Toyota in Centenial said my VIN was "unaffected" or "not affected" or "not included" or something or other. Friday my mechanic put my truck on the lift and let me wander around underneath tapping with a ballpeen hammer and inspecting. I remembered my digital camera so I took over a hundred photos. Generally everything looked pretty good. The frame has dirt on it, and there are "brown" spots, looks like patches of surface rust. The gas tank "skid plate" (or whatever that metal is under the tank) is rotting and neets replacement, as well as the muffler. The stock Tacoma side steps are rusting where they are bolted on. So sliders will be in order.

What do I need to do about those surface rust patches? Sand the whole frame down, then apply some sort of rust preventative?

While I like the 4.0L in my wife's 2008 4Runner Sport... I like the size of my 1st gen Taco. The 2nd gen's seem a little bloated to me.

 

For you guys that wrench... do you use air-powered impact wrenches? Or are these 18v impact wrenches I've seen get the job done? For my surveying I invested in some Bosch 18v tools. I started with Bosch because they seemed to have the lightest weight rotary hammer drills (I guess rock climbers like Bosch for their light weight). I've got some Amazon gift cards begging to be used... but how many ft-lbs do I want in an impact wrench? Is 133ft-lbs enough? There's also one with 184ft-lbs, and then their largest is 500ft-lbs. (Milwaukee 18v Fuel and Dewalt 20v impact wrenches generate up to 750(!) ft-lbs... but I'm already invested in the Bosch batteries. I'd switch if it was really worth it.)

 

Lambo -- for the short time while you had them, how did you like the Falken Wildpeak A/T3W's?

 

I get that about cordless tools rock... but how much oomph (torque) do i need to buy? 500 ft-lb Bosch sounds like it fits the bill, but it's pretty good sized and 3.5 lbs. They have a more compact unit that is only 2.7 lbs that generates 184 ft-lb. Is the enough?

 

Mmm first gens look so nice with a lift and tires.

 

I’ve been fine with my ryobi impact that goes to 300ft-lb. there are very few bolts that it won’t take off. And a breaker bar makes quick work of those

 

I use the Dewalt built, Mac Tools branded, 18v 1/2" impact. It has 1200ftlbs break away torque. Other than size and my crap at home compressor I've replaced it as my primary 1/2". When I decide to spend 1k or more on a new 240v compressor it might change back. The big negative on electric impacts for me is the noise levels, wear hearing protection. The 2nd annoying thing is the physical size/weight, years of being used to air tools has me spoiled.

I used to run a Snap-On 1/2 electric, still the current one they sell. It was not brushless and only had about 400-500ftlbs torque. I found I often needed more.

Ugga-Duggas work different/feel different than air. I can feel the rotational mass of the motor, once again because I'm used to air. I do feel that inertia pulls the gun off/back from the fastener so it is easier to round off hardware.

 

@Squeaky Penguin -- were you saying the OME shocks or the 5100's "feel wallowy and under-dampened"?

 

I got lost as to who asked what about 1st gen OME suspension, But I can honestly say that I have been happy with my OME suspension on my 96 Tacoma.
I run the 882's, and i did run the 881's first then the 883's, and the 882's were the win for me.
Also have the Dakars in the rear, no aal or extra leaf.
Truck has always set level and doesn't squat in the rear when loaded. That suspension is going on 3 years now and I have no plans to change it.
The rear OME shocks are way too short and that is the only thing I changed was the rear mounts and currently using longer length cheap emulsion shocks that are working just fine.

That being said, the Tundra I bought came with Bilsteins, ride was ok, but the change to ICON was the shit. Rides on a cloud compared to the Bilsteins.
I believe that @Squeaky Penguin was talking about Bilsteins when he mentioned leaking and bent shaft...but i could be wrong.

Either way, you do get what you pay for. So if you want the best ride, maybe consider Kings or ICON. They cost isn't really that much more for the shocks and the rear springs can be Dakar, or a custom Deaver pack, or what ever else is out there.

 

I've been on the fence about choosing a new tire size for over a week. I really like the idea of dropping a size (255/80r17 to 255/75r17) to get into a C-load tire (Yokohama MT's) and save about 10lbs/tire but I also like the idea of just saying F-it and get into a 285/70 and do a re-gear.

My biggest fear is the 255/75 will look too small with the lift even though, in theory, there is less than an inch height difference from the 285's.

 

Discount Tire's Direct (Ebay store) should have a sale soon if I recall correctly.

 

Check out the work by @tdubd. This bad boy is 8 feet wide!

 

WTH is wrong with me, I had to count the stars!

 

Get off my lawn!

 

That moose is making this face

 

Me too......

 

Need to recheck all my exhaust connections because I have an awful tea kettle whistle but the Stoopid duty is put together and hauls ass with the new y pipe, turbo, CAC, and a fresh change of T6

 

Sorry that wasn't clear. Yes I was referring to 5100s.

For coilovers, I was referring to Kings, Icons, Foxes, etc. Any of the performance 2.5" setups will be worlds better than OME.

Regarding the cost - I was in the do it right or do it twice camp. Or even three times. I had 5100s, OMEs, three different coils, and eventually ADS coilovers. I think I spent more money and time messing around with all those lower cost options than just buying the expensive one in the first place. Of course, it depends on your application, which is why I started by asking how you would use your truck.

Depending on where you're located, there's usually several members willing to help with the install. There's a few more nuances wrenching on a 15 year old truck though. I.E. I can almost guarantee your front leaf springs bolts are seized, and your alignment cams may be as well, making it impossible to align afterwords.

 

How do you deal with those? Cutting torch? Impact wrench? Do any of the "siezed bolt loosening magic liquids" work -- or help? Regarding the alignment cams... does that mean will probably end up needing UCAs?

Thx.