Kicker Hideaway Remote Start Cable

Where you guys connect the blue guy? It's the remote start cable. I'm mounting behind back passenger seat. Only 16 inches of blue cable. thanks!!!

 

Mines constantly powered via the battery but I do have it on a toggle switch if I do decide I don’t want any bass.

 

So chuck the blue cable?

 

I ran a wire from my battery, to a switch which then Runs back to the blue wire. Idk it’s just the way I’ve always done it because I am lazy. It shouldn’t be too hard to find a 12v aux power though, I’m sure someone will chime in with a better option.

 

It all depends on how you made your other connections. Many of us used Metra harnesses and connected to them. You aren’t going to find any where for the remote amp turn on wire behind the seats.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-premium-upgrade-kicker-key-180-4-amp.541375/

Maybe try posting in audio not 3rd Gen.

 

For the auto-on feature I tapped into the usb port behind the arm rest console. The USB port is obviously just 5v but the power going into is the necessary 12v. I had to add cable length of course.

Check out my post for the rest of the photos.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...or-less-than-250.510424/page-24#post-16098847

 

Dude ur the man.

Is that auto on required? Why doesn't it just turn off when the power to it stops?

 

Because it is wired directly to the battery, the remote wire just lets it know when you want it on via the key turned on or switch or whatever you have supplying the blue wire. It’s just a way to kill the power draw of the amp more or less, for what it’s worth I leave mine on all the time and I never had any issues even after days of not turning the truck on.

 

It’s called a remote turn on wire. Not remote start wire.

 

What a sassy female response from NY.

that's why we love ya.

 

I wired mine to the 12v charging outlet, half the dash was already apart from the install anyway.

 

Like @Hstone556 mentioned, because it's wired directly from the battery. The unit will remain on 24/7 (as long as your battery has juice). I know some folk do that but I would not want it to be drawing power 24/7. I want it to turn off when the truck is off.

Having said that, I wired my CB radio to the battery (and used 2 fuses) and it can be turned On if the car is Off, but that's by design in case I can't turn on the truck and need to communicate in an emergency. Plus I don't use my CB much so I always turn it off by its power switch when not in use.

It's very simple to do wire the auto-on feature. Just lengthen it with a longer cable, use a clothes hanger to route it under the carpet into the back of the center console and then just tap the wire to the positive wire going into the USB port. If I remember right, I was going to tap the ground to the black wire (hence the blue wire tap on the wire) but I decided to get my ground from somewhere else. That's it after that, the sub will only turn on if the truck is on or the ignition switch is triggered.

 

Awesome thanks man!!!

 

Didn't work. I didn't have that rear USB in my TRD OR 2019. I tried the 2.1A USB in the center console, but it wasn't strong enough. Crutchfield suggested I try a fuse and that worked fine. I just pinned the wire under a fuse (ACC I believe).

 

Hmm. Interesting. I'm not an electrician but it may be worth exploring connecting it to an add-a-fuse. That's in case the amp goes wonky, you don't want it messing anything up. In my case if it goes wonky and it blows the USB port fuse it's no biggie but you don't want it messing with the ACC fuse.

Then again, it should be a passive cable so maybe it doesn't matter. Might want to ask around the forum to confirm.

 

I’d like to suggest using a relay to power it up from a keyed power source . Taping in like the pics posted above is not the way to do it . I’m a certified mechanic and have been for over 20 years . There are a multitude of ways to get power including the existing power source to your head unit which I might add is already fused .

 

I used the head unit and Metra harnesses to get the remote turn on signal. Two reasons for this. One I can remove every single component and the truck can be returned to factory condition with no indication that anyone had ever changed any stereo components. Second I am not a hack. Once you start hacking you create problems. In my world scotch lock connectors are the staple of hacks and those who don’t know the proper way to do things. Down the road you will get corrosion where the scotch lock pierces the wires insulation and then stuff starts acting up or dying completely. Proper harnesses and proper soldering don’t suffer these problems. Amazing that people complain about things being done right when they hire work out or buy things but then set the bar low when they are the ones doing the work.

 

@Exracer2 you have pretty much the same system I will. I got different speakers, but a Kicker Key coming this week. How'd it come out?

 

Good call on using the metra harness . I’ve seen some pretty shtty work in my day , some of which have burned vehicles to the ground and others have cooked ecm’s and other related modules . There’s no place for scotch locks or mar connectors in automotive electrical repairs . I won’t even use a butt connector . For the extra two minutes work , solder and glued shrink tube are the safest bet.

 

I love it. Extremely small packaging for the Key which makes it easy to put anywhere. I actually stuffed mine into the tangle of wires behind the head unit.

I will say it again. Get the metra harnesses that are noted in the thread I posted earlier. It makes everything go so much smoother. Then you can tap the remote turn on right from the head unit for both the Key and the Hideaway.