2LO Plug & Play Harness Discussion

Thank you everyone for the information. I am convinced I need this haha.

 

In my case, the boat ramp I typically use has a hard left turn on asphalt at the top, still on an incline. My boat/trailer combo is right at 6k + whomever is in the boat so in order not to smoke my clutch I am always in 4LO. I always have to stop and put it in 2HI to make the turn and then pull out, uphill around the turn. THis is going to make the whole process a single clutch operation. Or, overload and snap an axle sending the whole mess into the lake.

 

Pending price and how dificult to install I want this also .

 

Take a look at the PDF in the other thread I linked in the first post. Ignore the part about splicing wires since all you will be doing is plugging in four connectors. The switch can go wherever you feel comfortable getting at, but my preference would be one of the empty center slots below your HVAC controls. If you have basic hand tools it should not be an issue.

 

I have the premium and tech package so no empty spaces under the hvac . I have a 2016 so I have an open space under the cubby hole by where the switch for the 400 watt 12 volt is with no rear window slider switch. Also , are there plugs to plug in under the truck by the transfer case and rear end ?

 

Gotcha, That location is doable but will require longer wire (obviously).

The plugs for this mod are behind the passenger side kick panel/glove box. I believe I have located the correct plugs for the e-locker, but I haven't looked for the T-case ones.

 

Cool , I just read the other thread pfd. This should be great for manuvering my pontoon boat in and out of water/driveway etc. Get me on the list please , I have the OR model with the E locker and an AT.

 

Added pictures of the two aironboard.com switches to the first post. The "new blue" is definitely a better match. The regular blue is quite bright as you can tell from the lens flare. I think either would be fine, but it is unfortunate that they are in short supply.

 

I like the new blue too @lapoltba

I gotta have my switch to the left of the steering wheel too. Damn. No open places in the middle.

 

I expect there will be enough interest in both locations I can offer both as an option. The third option would be no switch included with just a length of wire at a lower price.

The other switch I am waiting on only had one blue to choose from and I don't know what shade it is. Those wanting the new blue from air on board may have to get the no switch version and wait for it to be available if they sell out.

 

It really does not matter to me what color the switch is . So long as all is plug and play and for by the 400 Watt 12 volt switch left of the steering wheel . I do not need the locker if that was an option , just 2 wheel low.
Just curious though , If we switch into 2 wheel low , what would all have to happen to then go to 4 wheel low ?

 

@BigWhiteTRD will have to confirm, but I believe you will have to go back to 2wd as described in his pdf (after deactivating the mod switch). Then go to 4 lo normally. I do not believe the ecu will engage the front disconnect after you go to 2 low even if you release the switch.

 

And......







sub'd for pricing.

 

So I only tested the 17 AT, so there MAY be other sequences that people find work.

The one method that I am sure will work on everyone's 3rd gen is to deactivate 2lo switch and switch truck back to 2hi. Then switch back to 4lo, etc as desired.

On my truck, deactivating 2lo switch, and power cycling (shut off and turn back on) would also work. But I dont like doing that as I dont like shutting off and restarting, and my mode changes are iffy when sitting perfectly still. (Therefore this isnt a 'recommended' method.)

Other methods COULD work, but I haven't tested them... like maybe remove power momentarily from ecu, etc.... I am not planning to try anything else. The recommended method is the safest for the truck I believe (thinking of some recent thread with exploded front diffs, etc)

 

Put me on the interest list, this is a great idea. I have a 16 OR manual, and dont care which size switch as I'll be drilling a new hole for it anyway

 

I love the new blue.

 

Alright guys, sorry for the lack of update.

I don't have too much to say other than that I should be getting the switch from the other vendor Wednesday. I *THINK* both switches I am getting/have to check out use the same connector. If that is the case what I may end up doing is just providing the wiring with the connector ready to go and letting people order the switch to plug in. That way everyone can get whatever they want and still have this be a PnP deal. It will make the kit itself cheaper, and the only cost difference is in shipping of the switch you buy which isn't bad anyway. If that is disagreeable to too many people I'll be democratic about it and make a poll for switch color. I realize people need/want either left or center switch locations. I really am trying to make this as easy as possible, and since the switch is the only variable for everyone, having you source the switch yourself may be the better route. Again, if the plugs are the same, I can supply the harness 100% ready to go.

I have also found a nice way to ditch the bulky relay terminal block. I have already ditched the idea of a custom PCB/relay board as it would be cost prohibitive. My first thought was to solder directly to the relay, but that isn't the greatest plan. Relays do go bad, and I don't want the entire harness to be junk when one does. There is a solder-able terminal block available for that style relay so that, if needed, you can buy a $5 - $10 relay and just replace it.

Still waiting on a price for labor. I am seeing that this guy may be too busy to actually do this for me/us. I have a few other contacts to ping. At the very least if I can find someone with an automatic wire stripper/cutter to get all the wires taken care of, I can crimp them all.

I am getting very close to post in the for sale section, however I don't know if I am going to be running afoul of the rules since I will only have my "test" harness for pictures.

Due to the large initial outlay of cash I will be asking for a deposit to cover at least some of the required materials. It will be fully refundable if anyone changes their mind. I am doing my best to keep the total cost as low as possible for everyone.

 

Still in for a full plug and play w/switch that you have procured in your "testing phase" color doesn't matter

 

I can do "doesn't matter" as long as everyone is on board. Shit, it it was just me I would have a hidden crappy toggle switch under the dash....

 

Updated the first post with this info and updated some minor details.

I am inching closer to having a price for everyone. I know that is a big factor for some of you.

I was able to finish up building my test harness tonight. Before anyone says anything, yes the wires are super long between the connectors and relay. It was intentional. This was a quick and dirty test to prove out the concept of PnP. The better half is out of town this weekend so I have garage time all to myself. When I do the test install this weekend I will check wire lengths and figure out how to make it all pretty.

Here is what I ended up with. I tested the relay and switch with a 12V power supply I had laying around.