TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

We still have all of them too. We did, indeed, carefully max-out the weight, and polish the axles and inside of the wheels. We always did well in the speed category.

 

my t56 is notchy as fuck in the gto. hoping a shifter will help that out some.

im looking at a LSA blower at least to join the club

 

so, i just caught up on quite a few pages and have one question that I dont think im 100% clear on:

can anyone post the EXACT replacement header studs for a 2011?

I am about to take the truck to get the headers installed (I know I know, I intended to do it myself but I do not trust my welding "skills" to cut my OEM cats off and weld to the Dough Thorley Short tubes; cant afford to mess those up). I found a classic resto shop that said they can definitely do it, and they thought I needed headers custom made at first (which they do) and the owner has a older gen tundra with glass front end, MT suspension and stuff (from what I could tell from a pic) so when I was telling him about my truck, he was all into it.

anything besides studs and the headers that I need to be thinking about? I figure he can drill 2 holes (1/header) for the O2 sensor as well, before the cats.

Please give me your thoughts haha

 

Dumped the stock ones and went with some Vibrant hi-flows. Unless you have a vigilant visual inspection, I’d change the stock ones out. I’m running the URD y-pipe so o2 bungs are there.

 

I am familiar with the notchiness in those cars even though I owned an A4 at the time. A quick shifter will help. They have known synchro issues with the Tremec T56, and their rear diff mounts cause a lot of shock on the rear ends due to the voids in them.

Those cars are plagued with sloppy drivelines and shoddy suspension design. Bad ignition cylinders, take your pick, GM had the chance to build something great and instead they outsourced all of their parts to the lowest bidder and built a subpar car due to it. It is a criminal shame man. Its ultimately why I got rid of it. I am still heartbroken by that to this day.

 

i plan to fix some of those shortcomings with aftermarket stuff. its a nice basic car overall and i enjoy it for that. nothing techy or overly done on it. they are unique cars

 

That's actually what I really loved about it was how basic and meat and potatoes it was. Similar to the originals. That's actually what appeals and appealed to me so much about the Tacoma now and when I bought it. It is very simple and purposefully built. Meat and potatoes.

 

I picked up everything, plus owning a drill press makes life easier.

 

So I’m running the Steeda just fine, bolted right in. I know one person had issues with weld quality, but mine was fine. One washer under the stock pulley got everything lined back up.

 

I did have second thoughts after inspection of my steeda closely. I'll go roush when I get there. Need driver mods now.

 

Hit 9lbs on my way to work this morning. Temps were a boosty 35*

Got the P0103 again, so i guess that means i was making some power

 

Yeah, I can only hit 11 sub 30. Had to settle for 10 psi this a.m. Still pulling harder than it ever has.

 

You have the 2.5 right? Whats your elevation?

Im running a 2.6 @2000ft

Mine felt pretty good this morning too, still waiting for a day in the 20s though

 

Update on the TRD tune driving: It definitely holds on longer to closed loop/stoichiometric operation a lot longer, sometimes several seconds. Granted my temps are 30-50F, but I can boost to 5psi for a few seconds before it goes rich. Still don't hear any knock, but there is a noticeable butt dyno kick when it goes rich (11.5-12 AFR). Kind of leads me to believe that even 5psi is pretty conservative on 91oct and on the engine at these temps. I can actually drive it like a normal vehicle again compared to the UCON, which required me to drive on eggshells to not go full rich.

Hopefully the OVTune can react quicker to load changes compared to the TRD tune. Open to closed loop switch should be quicker in my mind.

 

Ive noticed the same thing. Mine will start making boost, but i never hear any knock. I ease into the throttle, until i see it go into open loop, then i go hammer down. Probably nothing wrong with going WOT sooner, but it makes me feel a little better to see the AFRs richen up first. I have noticed if you mash the pedal quickly, it will go into open loop much sooner, but it makes me nervous doing this because of the stoich AFRs early on and it builds boost fast

 

600’

 

This is why I’d like to regear. Keep it in the rpms.

 

I have 4.10s in mine and it still does the same thing.. if anything, it makes it worse (ie takes longer to go to open loop) because now the engine load is less due to the taller gears.. As far as i understand, the TRD tune goes to open loop based on engine load

 

Anyone get the p2214 code? I’ve had that as pending for a while and it finally has popped as a hard code. Also it happens right at start up and when cleared it doesn’t come back.

 

p2214 or p2241? i have had the 2241 and its front AFR/o2 sensor related

Also, how many miles on your truck?