JFR Equal Length Y-Pipe for 2nd Gen Tacoma, T4R, & FJ Cruisers

There's a few different conversations on this topic. Obviously there is a difference between those later model that have the air pump and the earlier models that don't. I don't have the air pump, so for me and others without, you can simply purchase the ARP stud kit, swap the studs and you could be done there. For ease of installation, I believe some folks have swapped in a couple of bolts per side in lieu of a stud. Leaving a couple of studs out can make it easier to install. It is quite the dance to slide the driver's side into position!

For those that have the later models with air pumps, you will have different length studs in a couple of locations, I think. You can still use the ARP stud kit for all of the short studs, but you will either need to reuse the stock studs, or it sounds as if the URD kit comes with the long replacement studs for those specific locations. Maybe someone else here can confirm that?

 

Here's the hardware I received. Are the 4 bolts on the left what you're referring to for the air injection pipe?

 

The kit comes with 6 cad coated studs to replace the extra long studs needed for the thickness of the manifold.

I used the LS1 ARP studs mentioned.

It’s a good time to install solid motor mounts if that’s something you’ve been considering too. Breaking free the mounts and jacking up the engine on either side makes the headers go in real nice.

 

the 6 studs included with the header are meant to replace the 3 upper stud on each bank, leave the one closest to the firewall out I also removed the original lower stud closest to the firewall on both banks and then just thread them back in once you have the headers and gasket in place I have a 2013 4x4 ORD and did not have to mess with the motor mount, I did remove the air pipe studs and reinstalled them after the air pipe and header fitting lined up. Do yourselves a favor and dress your headers up in an old t-shirt just pkg tape it to the manifold and collector flange when working it in so you don't tear up the ceracote I just cut it off with scissors once I had engaged two of the manifold studs

 

Those are for the header to secondary air pipe connection.
There are two m6 studs on the air injection valve. If you replace the studs with bolts it makes the valve install easier.

 

And then the LS1 studs for the rest?

 

You can use just the hardware in the URD kit along with the oem hardware. As previously stated, the 2012+ trucks with secondary injection have some longer studs due to thicker areas of the oem exhaust manifold where the air injection port runs.
This is different on the URD headers so shorter studs or bolts are used for the URD headers.

The M6 X 20mm bolts I suggested simply make it easier to install the secondary injection valve.

I will take a pic in a few.

 

Ok it's kind of hard to tell but here is an overall pic of the valves and the tube that connects to the valve. It is very important to note that there is another tube under this one which goes to the header. The 4 URD bolts and nuts go on the connection from tube to header.
Also note the stud to the left of the valve. This means you have to lift the valve up to take it off.

The problem is if you can see the bolts in the tube where it goes into the valve. Those are what I replace. There are studs there from the factory and the studs face toward the cab so in order to remove the valve you have to bend the tube off the studs by prying the tube toward the cab and lifting the valve.
With the valve out if you remove the studs then you can drop the valve assembly down into position then connect the tube with bolts.
In this pic you can also see the lower tube to header connection at the bottom center of the picture. This is where the 4 URD bolts and nuts are used.


This is a pic of the drivers side header to tube connection. Since both valves are on the passenger side, there is a tube that runs from the valve on the passenger side to the header on the drivers side.


Hope this helps.

 

Yeah I see what you mean Roost, its easier to position the header in place, then insert a flanges bolthead, rather than wiggle the flange over a fixed stud. Our block is aluminum so I'm taking the steel studs out, then installing 12 new SS ones. Fuck the dumb shit. I have way to much money invested to do anything but a 100% overhaul with the best parts. I always take the hard right over the easy left. Thanks everybody!

 

Here is another pic that's shows the valve and stud forcing you to lift the valve upward. You can also see the bolts coming from the left that hold the tube to the valve. You can see with studs installed there, it's much more difficult to remove and install the valve because the studs connecting the tube are perpendicular to the studs holding the valve.

 

You cant wiggle it over the stud. Everybody will understand when the remove the valves. Just get the bolts like I said or struggle a bit more. Its everyone's choice.

I'm very curious how your system comes out and more importantly how you like it!

 

@Roostfactor did you replace the header/head gasket during the install, or re-use the old one?

 

Awesome pics and explanation @Roostfactor. Very helpful and much appreciated!

 

Felpro is a good header gasket for our trucks

 

Just got a reply from Gadget on the different URD header powdercoat. He says the old coating is now banned in the USA and this new blackish grey is called Tungsten

 

This one?

Fel-Pro MS96913

 

Because the old coating worked???

 

Well, at least I know my banned coating will stand the test of time! However, I do like the darker grey. When Roosty and I installed mine, the recommended air injection bolts made a big difference in simplicity on an already pain in the ass install. I remember we took out the manifold studs, and then fanagled the driver side header in place, then seating the studs all the way. That was the only way we could do it with the steering shaft in the way. Also make sure you mark the steering shaft before you separate them, so you can align everything back up. Also, I would tie the steering wheel down so it doesn’t move and shear the wire or whatever it’s called that controls the steering wheel stereo functions. I bought brand new Toyota exhaust manifold gaskets and have not had any issues since we installed them back in October. I reused the metal air injection gaskets. Hope this helps, and it was all worth it in the end!

 

Holy crap. You’re alive.

 

Two things:
1) Roost, your engine is CLEAN!
2) I'm glad my truck doesn't have the injector tube. Looks like a pita!

Thanks for the info on this. I plan on installing URD headers along with that beautiful Y-pipe later this year and this discussion helps.