TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

In my experience ovtune was better for smaller pullies 2.7 and up. Below that FPR was required and the TRD was better

 

So when I read about the features in the iOTech software, I feel like you ought to be able to expand all the tables, etc.

https://i0techtuning.com/

I just want someone near me to be certified to install/tune with this stuff. I'm not excited about going in alone.

 

I did, I totally did. After how this last year or so has evolved with all the info being that a 2.7 does no harm with minimal added mods, it has convinced me to go ahead and do it. I like to play it safe I guess. To me with more mods can bring more issues (like these codes you guys are now throwing).....I wanna avoid that, I just don’t want those headaches on my daily driver.

 

was totally kidding, but i figured you probably did say that at some point lol.. Definitely a safe bet to sit back and watch and learn from others. Gives you a much better idea of what you can do reliably

 

So you believe with ovtune and adding a 2.7....I will not need the FPR mod?

 

Oh I know man!! Lol I’m just a puss. I’m gonna be shaking doing the handheld ov!!! I know it’s easy, I’m just nervous venturing away from safe lol

 

Watching and waiting is key. I am glad I did that when I was in the supercharger group buy, other wise who knows I may have installed the bullydog tune with out knowing better then ended up SOL if it didn’t play nice with my truck.

 

Once you cut the case, you’ll see how easy this is. I think 2.5” and fpr is very smooth. My afr’s have been great. I’m really liking my new valve body. Part throttle shifts are so quick. I like to open the window and listen to it.

 

The only thing I hate about the FPR mod is the pig rich activity it induces at part throttles because of the open loop/ boost raising fuel pressures at the same time actions.

 

2.7 was borderline too lean for me without FPR. The dyno for 2.7 - no FPR - I posted way back in this thread shows my AFRs were just over 12 which I wasn't comfortable sticking with. I then did FPR and it was way too rich so I went to 2.5.
If you do a quick change hub, I have a 2.7 you can test out to see if that or 2.8 is safer for you.

 

Thank you very much.

Mine is a 2011 but purchased in AUG 2010 so Ill go with the first option.

On the flipside: I just bought a 1974 Corvette Stingray today so the truck is going on hold after the headers get put on and ill be dumping money into the vette. Cant wait to start this new chapter!

 

That’s how I ended up at 2.5. I thought 2.6 was a little too rich.

 

Probably too late. But...



Non air injection. Which your 11 should be.

I'd also do the nuts. 90178-A0048 x 12

 

I appreciate it.....if I do this it’ll be 2.7. No use going from 2.825 just to 8. I’m gonna be a dare devil!!

 

I also should have specified: will I need the longer, ARP header studs with the DT short tubes? I checked out my studs and they all look really good and uncorroded.

 

Urd intake was my code slingee

 

If yorure not throwing a code you're not having fun. Your truck is just doubting its diet.

 

I ran the 2.7 without for just fine. If you frequent the rev limiter meth is a good vitiman.

 

Well. I ran the 2.7 on a stock fuel pump too. Meth made that happen too.

 

Is it because it pulls a lot more air? Or what do you think sir?

Truck is looking good btw, did you get new wheels?