The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

My girl's Rav4 XLE seems to have the LED DRLs like the limited, but the wiring isn't there.

 

Just finished the install, only question I had was what does everyone do for dust guards?

 

The dust boot? Put it back on just like the stock setup. Definitely do not leave it off.

 

How expensive are they? My drivers side one has a tear in it.

 

We have a 2013 rav that appears to have LED running lights in the headlight, but they don’t come on.

 

$7 - $12 each I have seen

 

Correct the SR5 did not come with the LED strip they have the Amber running light in the middle like the second generation

 

Here is the Toyota part number for the OEM rear cover for the 05-15 trucks: 90075-65002, which looks like it replaces earlier part number 81139-06050.
You can purchase here: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=headlamp,,81139

You might find a better price by searching with the part number. There is always aftermarket too, but a bit more challenging to find one that is a legitimate fit and not 'universal'. For the low cost I would go OEM.

 

May be going over the passes tonight to the other side of the state for a long weekend. Winter storm warning is in effect and snowing. Looking forward to being able to test out the All Seasons and my new yellow Subaru fogs in the snow.

 

May your journey be safe and your research productive.

 

Don't forget the Snowshoes to go with those Subaru's.

 

Snowshoe = KO2

 

Does anyone have experience with the flösser 145/100?

 

Not something I'd use on stock wiring

 

I currently have the wiring harness and osram 100/90.
If no one's used them I'll buy a pair and do a side by side

 

Agreed, unless you want to use it as a heating element.

 

Might want to see if @crashnburn80 has tested them already.

 

I have not. There are two things to consider when going to overwattage.
1) The higher over wattage you go the heavier duty the filament needs to be to handle the increased load. Thicker filaments don’t focus as well and lead to reduced hot spots which may not project as far, is why the 85/80w bulbs were so great as they were increased focus high wattage.
2) Bulb life. The 100/90w Osrams have a best in-class bulb life of 200 hours. Competing bulbs by Philips are at 150 hours. Going even higher wattage will further reduce life. Flosser does not publish specs but a similar bulb from Hella is down to 40 hours. If the Flossers has a similar life span that would mean bulb changes every 2.5 months based on 200hrs lasting a year for my use.

So the low beam may not be as good and the bulb life may be drastically shortened. High beam performance will be exceptional though. But without specs it is hard to definitively say.

Also be sure to check the fuse rating for high beam, they will pull 25A. IIRC the fuse is 30A.

 

I have the leds in a 2nd gen and I didn’t have to cut the boot whatsoever and I can guarantee you it’s brighter than that and it may throw light but in my state leds aren’t illegal I’m just trying to see better and I also adjusted them down to make them not shine as high as they we’re with a lift.

 

I suggest reading this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/

Brighter doesn’t actually help if you don’t have beam control. Instead LEDs give lots of dangerous glare which uninformed people may think means they are brighter, and loss of projection and loss of beam saturation, in addition to shifting the beam pattern toward the truck further reducing distance vision.

Eliminating the horrible glare part of the equation, LEDs still fail to perform adaquately. See this thread for an in-depth explanation on why LEDs do not project, even when controlling glare with a projector:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/

Putting drop in LEDs in halogen housings is also illegal in all 50 states. Whether or not you get cited for it is a different matter, but it is Federally illegal.