Run to the Hills! - Jason's Completely Stalled Colorado GTFO Build

But I’m good Hope everything’s awesome with you as well

 

That’s good, man!

Life is good here as well. Moved to Longmont in June and I love it here. The only downside is that I have to work on my truck outside for a while, but it’s totally worth it.

 

Dude, we’re pretty much neighbors, we go to Longmont more than south now, we figured out it’s closer lol

 

I just jack up under the LCA by the lower ball joint, Pull the lower bolt out of the strap and it's out of the way. No need to loosen the clevis at all. Pretty easy really.

 

Put the bolt in so it can be pulled toward the cab. Easy to put in and pull out, tire or no tire on the hub.

 

Yeah, I love not having to go anywhere south of Lafayette for much of anything. And we’re super close to 66 and Lyons or 34 in Loveland, so there are trails really close by.

NOCO Rocks!

 

Steering rack, complete with poly bushings and new inner and outer tie rods, is back in the truck and hooked up.

Finally starting to get this bitch back together.

 

Cranked up my driver side coilover a couple turns to help the taco lean from my big ass. I wanted to make sure that I did it before adjusting my limit straps, so I should be good to go now.

No pics so y’all have to imagine me gronking on the collar while I cringe because I’m expecting the whole thing to just explode and kill me.

 

Dibs on the truck.

 

Is there any issue going from stock LBJs with the rubber shield thingy to the ones without? Same torque on the BJ but and the four bolts?

I bought ones without because they came with new hardware. Being flanged bolts, I’m assuming I DON’T want to use those with the dust shield or whatever the hell it is.

@Blackdawg @Digiratus @drr @Squeaky Penguin @Reh5108

Thanks in advance, gents!

 

Thats a weird looking SFA

 

Nope it's fine. They introduced that in 01-04s I think. My 95 and 97 don't have them. I just reused the ones I had on Igor. Just a sheild from punctures

 

Thanks, Monte!

 

Managed to get the limit straps dialed before I had a bunch of other shit in the way. For now, they’re set up to limit droop about a half inch before the ultimate droop limit when the shock is topped out. I figure they’ll probably stretch a bit, and eventually I’d like to see them limit out around a quarter inch before top out. I’ll probably check them again at the next oil change and see how they’re looking. At least I have max droop measurements to reference later when they’ll need adjustment.

I also ordered 7” straps that will be here next month. As you can see, with the clevis mount where it is, I’m already damn near maxed out with the 8” straps, so 7” should be perfect.

Also, I slapped on the new OEM lower ball joints. Easy peasy.

 

I've not used flanged bolts (yet) with my shields but I plan to with the next new BJ set. @drr I think Dan told me he is running McMaster and Carr flanged bolts with his without issues. Torqued just fine.

 

Excellent.

Thanks, Mike!

 

seems like a lot of pre load man, I have a arb, should I get 700#?

 

Yep, what Mike said @jubei
If you got new OEM hardware it should be bolts with captive washers. I just like the larger bearing area of the flange head bolts, and they’re a little cheaper.
Can’t go wrong either way though.

I think they just barely twisted that rubber shield when torquing, it wasn’t an issue at all.

https://www.mcmaster.com/95735a635

 

I would try 650s first with your ARB. My tube bumper isn’t super heavy, but my winch adds a good amount of weight up front.

The preload is what King sent from the factory when I had 600# springs on there, and it’s only a shade over 2” of lift after the jump to 650s. I’m super happy with the ride, but I might entertain pulling some preload at some point, but probably not. I’m a large dude and I think it helps with my specific situation.

Thanks for the input, Dan.

My new LBJs came without the rubber shield and with flanged bolts, but my original units had the shield and bolts with captive washers, which makes sense, since you don’t want the bolt head to catch the shield and muck up the torque.

I think I might just run with the included flange bolts and without the shield and see how things go. I’m not sure how effective that shield is anyway, but I’d love to know what others have seen that way. I respect that you have had good results using the flanged bolts with the shield, but damn, the idea of losing torque on those bolts makes me pretty skittish...