TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

See my prob with the d60 option is you can’t get it in 5.29 which is what I plan to jump to for 37’s. That and I’m sua and would have to cut off the spring perches and shock mounts anyways. And would want wider to match my LT front and eliminate the need for wheel spacers. And by the time you build it up with gearing and a locker it’s not much cheaper than a custom 9” from Currie. That said if your gearing option is available and you still have stock suspension configuration it does seem like a great option.

 

I guess I could see in an MT but if you are AT then 5.29 seem too tall for 37s. However, I understand it is greatly dependent on where you live, how you use your truck, towing and personal preference.

 

thanks, going to try it out now

 

Using a plastic trim tool as opposed to thumb nail may help...any body got a part number for that piece by chance??

 

Countersteer type x think they're only 21 lbs

 

Well with the AT the correct ratio to get back to stock is closer to 5.13, but that’s not an option either with the d60 and I don’t believe it is an option for the front diff either. I’m 4.56 with 35’s and already wish I had 4.88 so I can only imagine when I go to 37’s I’ll certainly want more than 4.88. My worry is going that tall of gearing with the stock axle. I’m afraid I’ll just start breaking stuff. I’ve been told the 5.7 tundra axle will fit under our trucks and maintain wheel speed sensors and abs stuff plus be wider to match up with front LT, which would be the cheapest option to find from a junkyard. But again the highest gearing they offer is 4.88 for those. We’ll see how much I hate the 4.56 when I jump to 37’s and see if the tundra axle is a viable option or if I’ll have to pony up the big bucks on something custom.

 

Absolutely love those wheels. I just went with the Icon Compression, well because I am an Icon whore, and the only thing I don't like is the weight. Going from 16x8 Konig Countersteer offroads that were 18 lbs with 285/75R16 MT/R's to the 17x8.5 Icon Alloy Compressions that are 28lbs with 285/75R17 KO2's was a noticable difference even with 4.88's. But I did get an extra 300 rpm decrease at highway speeds. So only 2900 rpm at 80mph.

 

I thought I read somewhere that Nitro now has a 5.29 for the Tundra axle. Quick search says it should be available around April.

 

That could be a deciding factor for me. Next would be to figure out how to swap the tundra front diff in, but that would be a little tougher than rear axle. I’m not jumping to 37’s until this fall/ winter so probably wouldn’t be regearing again until next spring.

 

@BassAckwards it worked! used a pick to break the dirt built under cap, then it unscrew counter clockwise as you stated! removed the pulley but got rained on, need to put new one back on when the rain stops. thanks!

 

You just need more horsepower.

 

Need suggestions on how to get a TRD SC tune that I never knew I needed.

1. Dealership says they don’t have the option on Techstream and can’t help.

2. After waiting for what I mistakenly thought was an SC tune file, @OVTune informed I needed a TRD SC tune first. He said he could do it but I would have to unlock some things first and then mail it to him. Not specific on what I need to do and no phone number to ever reach out and too busy with everyone to help individuals. It is my daily so simply mailing away my ECU isn’t really an option either.

3. Now what?? Am I just screwed or how did anyone else get a TRD tune? I have the OVTune handheld. Am I just stuck with going the UCON route?

Thanks for any help. Not sure why this is such a mystery after all this time. So frustrating having all this untapped potential sitting in my garage to just stare at.

 

@loginfailed knows the exact process. It’s in this thread, but I can’t remember how far back.

 

Try a different dealership. The local one here flashed mine and a friend's following S/C install.

 

Sure thing, glad it worked out for you

 

Isn’t that what the sc is for? I’m working on letting her breathe a little with a y-pipe coming and then deciding on headers.

 

Try this procedure:

1. Disconnect battery
2. Swap new ECU into truck
3. Paperclip across pins 4 & 13 of 16-pin DLC3 (AKA: OBD2) connector
4. Reconnect battery
5. Hook up battery charger
6. Turn on ignition
7. Wait 30 minutes (use a timer, has to be at least 30 minutes)
8. Turn off ignition
9. Remove jumper from DLC3 connector
10. Try to start the truck

If it starts you’re done.

I've done this as well. Straight out of Dwayne's build thread

 

I sent my ECU off and had it reflashed by a member that was willing to help me. After i got it back, i had to reset the immobilizer in my truck to get it to start. Thats the procedure i posted up above. I've done this 4-5 times now without any issues