ckrockets build thread (daily driver/overlander rig) - Jack's 2010 4X4 DCSB Silver Streak Mica

Fabrication of axe and shovel holding bars:

stainless steel bolts & brass washers w/ wing nuts

9/2017

***lower right corner you can see the scrap from using hole saws (1" & 1.25" with different offsets to elongate the slot specific to fit the shovel & axe handle diameters)

9/2017

 

Shovel, axe, and traction board mounts:

9/2017


9/2017


9/2017

 

Bed rack perimeter light mounts:

KC C-series LED pods

10/2017


10/2017



Base plate welds:

10/2017

***max heat, very slow wire feed, to allow maximum penetration of the 0.25" base plate (pushing limits of 120V welder)

Update 6/18/19: via the TW Anything Welding thread and the expertise of the guys there I discovered that the above welding technique is called "globular transfer"

 

The main bed rack fabrication was basically complete at this point. I moved on to the next step, designing a swing away tailgate. Back to SolidWorks to create a model.

10/2017



Frame:

10/2017



Hinge:

10/2017

***the most critical component of this entire build I would say, by my estimates it would have to support 250lbs when extended (stand off's 0.25" plate, 1" tubing 0.25" wall)


bracing & spare tire mount support:

11/2017



gate frame weld:

11/2017



test fitting:

11/2017



240lb static load test (passed):

11/2017

 

spare tire mount extension and bracing welds:

11/2017


lug plate with template:

11/2017

***the placement of these threaded holes was extremely critical, created this to scale template in SolidWorks, taped to plate steel then auto center punched hole locations, used drill press incrementally drilling up using 4 drill sizes, then hand tapped


perfect alignment and fitment:

11/2017


welded and test fit:

12/2017

 

Back to the swing away tailgate SolidWorks model to integrate Hi-lift jack and Jerry can mounts:

12/2017



Hi-lift jack mount (1" square tubing) welded and test fit:

12/2017



Spring loaded latch:

12/2017

***note SS bolts and brass washers for hinges


Jerry can mounts welded and test fit:

12/2017

***the way the sheet steel needed to lay on the framework of the gate I needed the cuts to be extremely straight, I knew I was not going to be able to maintain a straight enough cut using a 4" cutting wheel even with a guide, so I opted to have a local metal supply who had a press cutter to cut specific sized sheets for me, all I had to do was radius one corner and debur edges then straight to welding

12/2017


SS slider plate for spring loaded latch:

1/2018

***I have a really nice 28MB video of the latch in action if anyone has a way to upload it, send me a message if you know of a way.



1/2018

***orientation of the retention bar in front (1" angle iron) and the H-lift jack above will not allow removal of Jerry cans for theft prevention

 

Swing away tailgate and rack removed from vehicle at this point. I can actually remove and install the bed rack by myself, the swing away tailgate needs an extra pair of hands to align and drop the hinge bolts in place.

Since the main purpose of this rack is to hold a RTT I dedicated myself to using a Tepui Kukenam 3 Ruggedized by integrating into the rack fixed mounting points for this specific RTT. I emailed Tepui they were very helpful in giving me very precise spacing measurements of their mounting rails. I didn't own the RTT yet.

propriety fixed mounting points for Tepui rail mounting system:

1/2018



The rack and tailgate welds received a dressing using a 3" wire cone brush on a 120V angle grinder (3-4 hour job completely wore out brush) before being dropped off at the powder coater.

 

While the rack and gate were off at the powder coaters I took the opportunity to install a key piece of the build. I spent a lot of time researching what bumper, winch, lights and rock rails I wanted on TW.

CBI Moab 2.0 front bumper w/ brush guards
CBI rock rails
KC Hilights 6" Pro-Sport Halogen lights
Warn M8000 winch

1/2018

***Installed CBI rock rails, Install very straight forward but time consuming (4 hours), one man job with use of floor jack and jack stands

1/2018



*** install was straight forward with no issues but very time consuming (6 hours), Wife helped me balance bumper on 2 ton floor jack as we slid it in place and put the first bolts on (only required her help for about 15min, the rest was a one man job)

 

Have a good weekend everyone, much much much more to come next week.

 

Following. This is awesome to watch the progress.

 

Cool...

 

Powder coating only took about a week, this phase of the build was complete.


1/2018

***2000lb De-Sta-Co latches






***D-ring hitch bar, and Koch Head Hitch Pin (4011823)



***interestingly this spot near my house in the Pisgah NF basically stays in perpetual shade during the winter, snow will stay there a week after it melts everywhere else, makes the perfect place to go play

 

Perimeter lights installed (not wired up at this point).

KC 3" C-series LED Pods (Flood 332) X 3:

2/2018

***It was going to be some time before I could get these wired up. I was concerned the connector contacts would get corroded (from road salt spray), so I used Mission Automotive waterproof dielectric grease to fill the plug cavities.






***note the perfect spacing with the tools and LED pods, that was completely thought out in the design process, same for the traction board side

 

Since my factory tailgate was gone I had lost my backup camera. I put some thought into how wanted to mount a camera, inevitably choosing this location and method.

OEM camera (ebay) and wiring harness (online Toyota dealer)

3/2018

***flat bar bent and welded to form bracket (held by bottom spare lug), camera sitting on rubber mount (camera required some careful modifications to it's housing)



***I wanted the camera to be plug and play so I opted for the use of an OEM camera and wiring harness (had to extend wiring harness a few feet).

 

I did a lot of research on TW on where to mount the Warn winch controller, many different good ideas out there, I chose this location for many reasons.

• no need to extend power wires
• use of dead space
• protected location
• access to switch port

But it would require a custom made bracket. The bracket worked out so well I entertained the idea of making these brackets for sale. Any interest?

4/2018

*** no modification to the truck needed (use of existing holes), slotted mounting point donor piece from factory bracket

 

Let the electrical begin! The physical aspect of the build I most enjoy.


Everything seen was sourced from Amazon, except the OFC power wire and Al battery terminals (GPcaraudio).


4/2018

***double crimping tool (w/ double crimping terminal connectors) is the greatest thing I never knew existed until this build!


It was roughly 3 months to my planned overlanding trip to MT/ID and it was at this time I knew it wasn't going to happen.

I still had to purchase a suspention lift, RTT, refrigerator, and various other items. By my estimates it was going to take another $5500 give or take on top of what I had already spent. I had a chunk of it but no way I could come up with it all in time. To maximize the trip, at minimum, I needed these items. I had to admit defeat and reschedule the trip for summer 2019.

This is where my build takes a strange detour. I now have 14 months til my MT/ID summer 2019 Overlanding trip.

 

Man I love your truck super awesome job on the bedrack an Swingout.

 

Got the main power wire (for what ??? ) routed, terminals, main fuse block, and winch power hooked up.

4/2018

***a hydraulic terminal crimper tool (TMS WL-YQK-300 $50ish) is worth every penny, the crimps are the best method (cold weld) possible, highly highly recommend

You'll notice I have the OEM positive and negative connections running to the after market terminal blocks. The negative I just crimped a new terminal lug to it, the positive side I modified by cutting on the existing terminal flattening it out so it could be bolted to the aftermarket terminal block. Even was able to modify and use the OEM red cover. I'll snap a pic and post tomorrow.

 

Spent the next couple months working on installing the electrical for lighting and etc.

OTRATTW switches:

4/2018



Temporary terminal, buss, relay, and fuse block placement. 3/4" MDF (47.5"x19") back wall panel secured using factory threaded holes along the center brace:

4/2018



Sunglass pocket switch mounting, researched on TW:

4/2018

***14ga wire not a good choice for this, next time I'll use 16ga




Anytime backup camera switch mod (researched on TW) & interior winch power and actuate switch (researched on TW and other)

4/2018

*** IN & OUT switch: this was an interesting mod took quite a bit of study & research to figure out exactly which wires to apply power to within the controller, not as straight forward as one would think


Switches powered up and backlit:

4/2018





Let there be light!:

4/2018

 

Ditch light install.

SDHQ ditch light brackets
KC 3" Amber C-series LED pods

5/2018

***straight forward install of brackets, no modifications required, highly recommend