2005 Double Cab SQ Build -- 3-way|Q-Logic|Pioneer|JL Audio|Zapco|Rockford|Dayton

First the final product



I’ve been into car audio since high school and have had different types of systems in all my vehicles. I had a 4-year hiatus while I was stationed in Japan but now that I’m back in the States and have what I consider to be the last truck I’ll own I wanted to go bigger than I ever have on a system.

So I previously had a simple setup installed in my Tacoma that consisted of CDT CL-62BE components, JL 10TW3 subwoofer and an Alpine 5-Channel V9 amp running everything. The components were bi-amped and their crossovers were adjusted with the network mode on my Pioneer AVH-2300NEX head unit. Everything sounded “good”, a definite upgrade over the stock JBL system, but was lacking midbass and overall volume.

I started looking into what might make for a decent SQ setup with volume being the second priority. I did a whole lot of research and decided to go with a raw driver 3-way front stage and a dual JL 13TW5 subwoofer setup all tuned with a DSP. I figured this would be a good intro to DSP tuning so I didn’t go crazy with the drivers. Obviously some HAT or Audible Physics drivers would’ve been better but I’m not planning on entering any competitions.

The components (8" midbasses were on backorder at the time):


I went with the Rockford P1000x1bd because it’s typically underrated and fairly efficient, I alos got a refurb unit w/ warranty at a good price. I was really torn on my 6 channel/DSP setup. My first plan was to use the AudioControl D6.1200 as it had a DSP and amp all in one which would simplify wiring and still have tuning capability. After playing with the software turns out the Left and Right channels aren’t able to be EQ’d separately. I then was looking at the Helix P Six but that bad boy is pricey. It’s certainly the standard but I couldn’t justify the cost based on my desired outcome.

My final choice, I think, is a good compromise. The Rockford DSR1 has all the features of the 3.Sixty.3 (minus to desktop app) without the price and the Zapco ST-6X has 100wrms x 6 @ 4 ohms which should be enough tuning capability and power head room for what I’m trying to do. Gains were set with an O-Scope for accuracy. I have REW and calibrated Dayton USB mic for tuning.

Headunit:
Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

Amps:
Zapco ST-6X
Rockfor Fosgate P1000x1bd

DSP:
Rockford Fosgate DSR1

Drivers:
Peerless NE25VTS 1” soft dome tweeters
Dayton Audio RS-100P 4” midrange
Dayton Audio RS-225 8” midbass
JL Audio 13TW5v2-2 subwoofers (1 ohm final)

Wiring:
0 AWG OFC welding cable power/ground
12 AWG speaker
NVX/JL/KnuConceptz terminals/distribution block and interconnects
Tech Flex and heat shrink all around


First up was running the power wire and redoing the positive terminal. I used a JL terminal as it had three 0 AWG inputs. I previously had 2 AWG for the big 3 so I left all that in place and upgraded the batt ground to 0 AWG. The runs are short and shouldn’t affect my voltage too much.






I then went on to tackle the amp mounting situation. I didn’t want to lose the under seat bin but there’s no way anything would fit without some serious chopping. To keep the OEM parts intact I decided to remove the bin altogether and fab up some racks using 1/2” high density plastic.

The plastic was so easy to work with and made for a sturdy mounting surface. Due to the sub amp’s width I found that angling it allowed the optimal space to still fit under the seat and hook up the wires. I’m not 100% happy with how the power wires are but you’ll see how that turned out.




The 6 channel rack was a lot easier after I figured out what I needed to do. The amp is much thinner as well. I designed it to allow installation/removal with everything still attached. I used rivnuts on all the mounts to attach the amps and rivnuts in the sheet metal to mount the racks. The DSR1 is also mounted underneath the Zapco to keep it out of the way but close to the hookups.



Here you can also see my initial wire runs. I modified it later on. The amps fit under both seats with room to spare though.


I had sound deadening on the doors and back wall but not the floor pan so while the interior was out I laid a ton more. You can also see how I changed the power wire routing. I used 0 AWG all the way to the amps even though it wasn’t necessary because I’m an idiot but there’s no kill like overkill. I’m looking into some reducers that tuck the wires closer to the amp. It’s looking like I’ll need someone to machine them for me though.


To save time but still get a decent soundstage I used the Q-Logic kick panels. They’re decently thick plastic and fairly dead but I added more sound deadening behind them. Using 5.25” grilles hid the 4” driver well and blended nicely with the panels. The tweeters were a pain to fit due to the large flange.




One thing Q-Logic doesn’t mention in the install instructions is that there might be this big ass plastic piece back there. You can not install the panel on the driver’s side without removing it. Full stop.


Luckily it’s removable. Simply undo all the connectors that are mounted to it and use a pick or small flathead to unlatch all the plugs that are on it. Remove the blue frame, reconnect all the plugs and you’re golden. I used acrylic batting to stuff the space behind the panels as well. The batting helped coral all the connectors.




The passenger side goes in without any modification.


I already had some adapters from my previous install but made some new ones with threaded inserts. I also stacked a plastic ring on top to get the 8” driver out enough to clear the window. I glued everything up and later sealed all the mating surfaces with silicone.







I was pretty stoked seeing all this together


The door panel grills weren’t gonna work now that a much larger 8” driver was behind them. I cut out the plastic along the original molded lines and used a method I saw on YouTube via Mark at Car Audio Fabrication and pressed some mesh grills. They’re not perfect my any means but they don’t look too bad for my first set.








I swapped the stock battery out for this X2Power *cough* Northstar *cough* Group 27F battery. Plenty of reserve power and CCAs to handle my setup.


Like others before me I mounted the remote knob in a switch blank. The DSR1 allows you to have the knob be either the bass, punch or main level control, all configurable from the app.






(cont. on next post)

 

That is one beautiful build my friend. Great tip on the speaker grill pressing too. Looks custom af.

 

On to the sub boxes. As some might’ve guess I went to the legendary Mr Marv for my enclosures. He’s the only one offering a box that fits these sub behind the seats with zero figment issues. They absolutely live up to his reputation. If you’re wondering about getting a set DO NOT HESITATE.






I made some custom brackets and used threaded inserts to mount the enclosures.







Continuing the Tech flex and heat shrink theme I made harnesses and terminals posts for the subwoofer wiring.




I widened the subwoofer’s mounting holes to accept the 1/4-20 hardware I got from Parts Express. The aluminum drilled easily.


Turned out that the hardware was a tad long due to the 1/2” birch. I picked up some shorter bolts from Ace Hardware shortly after.


Perfect fitment


I covered the boxes in bed liner, as is tradition.






While waiting for the paint to dry I color coded all the wiring on the 6-channel for easy identification.


I also used some 4-pin weather pack connectors to make removing the kick panels and easy task in the event I need to take them out.



And finally all done. Took about two weeks of work on and off and waiting for bits and pieces to arrive in the mail. We had a small snowmaggedon here in the PNW which delayed stuff as well



Fully stealth


Bam!


Lots of room back there. Could probably fit the JL grilles.


I used some leftover plastic to keep the seat bottoms from sitting on the wires. Like I said before I’m hoping to clean this part up a bit more.


And that’s it! Thanks for checking out my build journey.


edit: I re-did most of the original post so I could attach the images rather than have Imgur links so that they'd be permanently visible.

 

Well-done Dave. Thanks for sharing!

 

Nice build! My build is sort of similar.

I did not have any clearance issue with the RS225, but mine is a 2014 so the door panel may be different. The RS225s really kick out some bass!



I did’t do kick panels, but might have if I had known about the Qlogic panels. I modded the little sail panel triangles to house the Peerless/Vifa tweeters.



For mids, I took the easy route and just put 3.5” Daytons in the stock tweeter location.



Sound deadening all over the place. Multiple layers of different products.



I went with the DM-810. No left right EQ but it’s easy to adjust through the desktop app on my MacBook. Tuned with REW and miniDSP UMIK-1.



For amps, I used a JAD1200.1 running two 10TW3s in an enclosure I made myself, a JAD800.4 running the Dayton 8s and 3.5s, and a Fosgate PBR300 running the Peerless tweeters. The processor and amps are in the cavity under the seat.

Head unit is an Alpine ILX-207.

In the future I’d like to re-visit the rear cavity area. I’d like to get a clean 6-channel make a nice plate to cover the area maybe with some plexiglass windows and backlighting to illuminate the area when I flip the seats up. Just to simplify and clean up the look.

 

Thanks you! I’m glad you posted here. You’re build is the reason I was able to confidently choose the RS-225 for my doors. I was worried about fitment but when I saw your install I went for it so thanks for posting about it when someone asked about 8” mids in the doors

The Q-Logic kicks are available on eBay and Crutchfield. eBay had the better price including shipping when I bought mine. They’re a huge time saver but you’ll still be making some concessions on fitment when you use them. Mine don’t “perfectly” line up or match the other plastic color exactly but they probably saved me 3 whole days of Fabrication time.

 

Awesome job! Thanks for sharing!

 

Impressive setup!

 

Very nice build. You 2G guys are lucky you have more space than us 1G guys. Trying to fit multiple subs behind the seat in my dcsb is no easy task, but I have some ideas and shallow mount subs that I think will do the trick!

 

Thanks! Yeah compared to the earlier model we’ve got space for days. The TW3 line of subs from JL is also super shallow and actually has more Xmax than the TW5 and is more suited to a ported enclosure. A lot of people use the sundown SD3 and I’ve seen several comments about the Alpine Type-R shallow subs being legit as well. Not a whole lot of options for good shallow subs if that’s all you can squeeze in there but they’re a good compromise if you don’t want to or can’t fit a traditional subwoofer.

 

Had a single 8" Type-R in the back of a Forester and it was super clear and actually hit pretty hard on 350 watts. Loved that thing.