What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

@Fish12South helped me put his old 5100’s on my taco yesterday. Fun mod day and raised the front end up a few inches and no more rubbing.

 

Which OBDII reader did you get? Does it work with Bluetooth or just WIFI?

If someone wants it bad enough they will steal it. I would speculate that the Meth heads going around steeling tailgates are not watching how to videos first. HAHAHAHA --- I cut washers on our laser to keep my cables from being detached as well. The spacer washer is behind the big washer in the photo, it keeps the cable from binding up. I just hope they do not cut my back up camera wire before they realize the need a T25 Torx to get mine off. As well as the hose clamp that's tightened from under the truck.

I need to do this mod!!

Nice Bay!! Super Clean, Love it!

 

I've had Betty for a year on Saturday. 18,830 miles of smiles in the first year! Love my Taco more now than when I bought her!

 

Ha that’s what she said!

 

I held my tailgate at about a 45* angle while tightening the hose clamp. Pain in the ass to try to loosen when I took my gate off to drill a hole for the pop-n-lock wires.

 

Or this, I sell them for 15 bucks, 3/16 steel, super beefy

the one in the photo is 1/8 in

 

Some sort of rip stop material. Formerly known as TrekArmor. Apparently they’re quite popular in the Jeep community. https://youtu.be/Ldaand1N3rU

 

Did you use a lock nut? If not i would use a lock washer or lock nut and some thread locker or youll be rattling again soon.

 

Not sure well a nyloc nut would stand up to the heat..? Probably just go for a lock washer

 

Yeah i though about that after i recommended it. The heat would prob melt it. Lock washer and thread locker would be best.

 

Changed the oil. Anyone else's maintenance not coming on every 5k miles? My trip B which I use for monitoring between oil changes was at 59xx and still no maintenance light. I went ahead and changed it and reset the counter but this seemed to happen the last 5k as well. 2013 v6 for reference. Also now after a little over 1 year of ownership it seems to be losing half a quart of oil every 5-6k miles. Its consistent every oil change so I am not super worried about it, Just realized after I typed this that the old filter drains about a half quart when I remove it and the new filter goes on empty. Makes it nice when changing the oil, all the used oil fits in the 5 quart I just emptied.

 

What about gearing? Your truck will crawl hills with the bigger tires.

 

Hey Slv2ndGen,
I have finally started on this. Do you mind a few questions? I don't have a cubby between the two up front lights. Did you solder wire to the lights before you mounted them and let the wire hand down? I notice you used the fasteners that came with the lights. Did you consider rivets? How did you get behind the light to attach the nut to the fastener?

 

Recently installed the Bilstein 6112s and Camburg UCAs with Wheelers steel braided brake lines front and rear. Rear suspension on the list when taxes come back!

 

What notch you got the front at?

 

Gear Tech Customs Tacoma Splash Guards from @cnote4l

I recommend the upgraded mounting clips, better than OEM.

 

Spent most of the weekend in the garage doing a 60k service. The list is long..

• New spark plugs
• Gear oil in front & rear diffs as well as the T-case
• Engine oil / filter
• Power steering flushed with new ATF
• Rotated the tires
• Greased both driveshafts
• Tightened the sliders
• Attempted to lube the belt idler pulleys
• Topped off both my AGM batteries
• Dropped the gas tank skid and cleaned out what felt like 5 lbs of wet leaves and other crap

The old plugs were factory (3 Denso, 3 NGK). I know everyone has said it before, but Ill say it again - get them changed often. Old ones looked good, but the gap on the Densos was 0.010" over and the NGKs were 0.015" over . Truck still ran fine, but hopefully it will be even better now.

Oil that came out of both diffs was pretty dark, but no evidence of water which was awesome. After going through a bunch of deep water last fall I was a bit worried about the rear. Also, when I pulled the fill plug on the rear there was a huge rush of air as the pressure equalized, so thats just one more reason to get a breather kit on there. Both diffs also had a big clump of metallic sludge built up on the drain plug magnets. Pretty sure the previous owner skipped gear oil changes too..

Transfer case on the other hand was pretty good. Oil that came out was still amber-ish and semi translucent.

Power steering was way dark after getting it out. Didnt look too bad in the reservoir, but I think the white plastic made it look better than it was. Pulled the return line and let it run into a gatorade bottle as I turned the wheel back and forth. Engine off, wheels just off the ground. Took just over a qt. to get nice clear red oil out of the return line.

And lastly attempted to spray some fluid film on the belt idler pulleys after developing a small squeak during cold starts a few weeks ago. I had a new belt, but didnt get time to put it on. Managed to get enough on there that it seemed to work but we'll see how long that lasts. Probably will just end up going all in and replacing the pulleys and belt this summer.

Old Densos



Old NGKs



Rear drain plug


Old power steering fluid at the bottom of the jug

 

I'm not sure if I used a lock nut. That probably would have been a good idea though. I did use a dab of blue locktite though

 

If you have no cubby for access behind the bed just solder some extra wire to the leads to hang down (before you install the light in the bed) where you can join them under the bed where you are able to get to all three. I did not install nuts on the screws behind the bed, instead just drilled a hole slightly smaller than the supplied screws and let them self tap. They torqued down very well with my handheld electric impact and have not moved since.

 

Another week of snow, another wash. The skiing is all time right now in Utah!