Brake drums warped

He could be full of shit, but my dad used to tell me that the worst thing you can do to a set of brakes is drive stop and go and then hit a mud puddle because the rapid cooling would warp the rotor. That being said, I've never personally had a warped rotor or drum and I abuse my brakes on the regular. The only time I've had brakes oscillate or shimmy was because of a cheap set of brake pads, and one other time because of a worn wheel bearing. I've also had two vehicles that pulled one way or the other when braking, but that had nothing to do with the brakes and everything to do with suspension geometry from worn bushings.

 

Vibration under braking at 8000 miles. Dealer resurfaced the drums, was smooth as silk. At 35000 miles it came back. Deciding if I want to bitch and try and get it warrantied or just buy new drums and shoes and hopefully be done with it. Only bitch I have about my third gen.

 

Would need more info for the trans temp, details such as what trans you have. Why would the service advisors know the trans temp range on your vehicle, that would be a technician question and they would likely need to look it up, considering how many different transmissions there are techs cant be expected to know the specs on each one.

 

They may not be able to remember the specs, but they better know where to look them up.

 

True the techs can look it up but service advisors likely would not know how to, most SAs don't even know how to reset oil light or turn auto running boards on or off. Are you gonna tell us what tranny you have if you still want the temp spec.

 

I took it to the dealer in Barstow and they were Johnny on the spot and got it for me.

 

If I remember correctly, the warning light will come on at 285F. Seems pretty high, but I've pulled my camping trailer up to the Sierra and the temp got up to 255 with no warning light.

 

With temps running in the mid to upper 200 degree range, I’d say a BATFC (Big Ass Transmission Fluid Cooler) would be a great investment to keep those temps down, keep your transmission internals from cooking and help to preserve the longevity of your transmission.

How long will your transmission last when it’s running at extra high temps? You can find a lot of info online and decide for yourself.

Transmissions do overheat. Why let it get close?

It’s a fun and easy project to install a larger cooler. And they don’t cost very much.

The small stock external trans cooler isn’t dissipating a lot of BTU’s during heavy towing, hauling or climbing and isn’t keeping your transmission in a lower temperature operating range, especially in really hot weather. That’s a fact.

Why not keep your transmission cooler with a bigger cooler?

You can then monitor how cool your transmission is keeping, instead of watching how hot it is becoming.

It’ll probably last longer and will be less likely to crap out on you in the long run.

Stacked plate coolers are sturdy and have no thin fins to bend.

P.S. Outdoor temps while driving through central California were reaching 115 degrees last June. I hadn’t seen that in a few years!

 

what cooler is that?

 

You must of never driven a WJ, they are notorious for getting warped rotors

 

My 2018 has had terrible brake judder since new, especially braking gently on the freeway, 60-20mph. I complained at the 5000 service and they didn’t have any technicians available (around thanksgiving). Today, it’s in for its 10K service and they confirmed the drums are warped and they will resurface. Toyota approved the fix under warranty. It’s also getting the brake master cylinder replaced today for a recall - so not very impressed with the brake issues so far.

 

Look into some high temp brake fluid like a dot 4. Starting more than 20 years ago every new car i had warped a rotor or a drum. only after swapping in high temp brake fluid did the problem stop for over 100,000 miles in every vehicle.

Just saying. Once they get warped you can cut out the heat-spots by turning them but it will come back.

I swapped out my brake fluid in the Tacoma after the first 5000k road trip it immediately went on right off the lot.

 

Did that solve your issue?

 

I've done many brake jobs in the past. Drums and rotors can get warped. Temp, shoe/pad material and sticking of calipers/shoes can all cause it. Just think about a frozen caliper causing more pressure to place on one side of hot rotor. Over time drums can also wear in a condition where the open side is wider than the inner like a bell.

 

Applies to:
4Runner, 86, Avalon, Avalon HV, C-HR, Camry, Camry HV, Corolla, Highlander, Highlander HV, iA, iM, Land Cruiser, Mirai, Prius, Prius C, Prius PHV, Prius Prime, Prius V, RAV4, RAV4 HV, Sequoia, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra, Venza, Yaris, Yaris R

TSB attached.

 

I found that and thought about breaking them loose and retightening with torque wrench since it’s easy and free . My truck doesn’t fall into any of the tsb’s though being a 19’ but that seems like a possibility, where as the axle problem was supposed to be fixed on the assembly line before 19’s came out .

 

I believe it's this one. They replace it with the same thing just different full assembly still with the needle bearing. Permanent fix is to just do the ECGS Bushing.

 

800 miles on my truck not a needle bearing here , just a braking issue . It started this about 120 miles in I was saying it may be the previous tsb you posted.