NJ B.S. Thread

Daham! Straight and to the point!!

 

Not more than a few inches. I hook it to a shackle so there's very little weight pulling down on it. Just ~18" of rope.

 

I'm unhappy enough about having the wires for the starter running all the way forward with no fuse or cut-off.

 

@Bastek

I have a manual Blue Seas rotary switch at the highest point on the firewall in the engine bay. My reasoning is that I seem to dunk the entire winch during water crossings and I don’t want any electricity running to the winch while underwater (this is my opinion.) The switch also controls my rear bed electrical needs: fridge and compressor.


The switches are usually in the “On” position while off-roading. I’ll switch the winch “Off” when crossing relatively deep water, but feel comfortable with the rear bed power still “on.”

During heavy duty, high power draw pulls, the hood is either open or unlatched for quick shut-off access to the switch in case of fire or meltdown.


Reading the horror stories on these recent posts leads me to think I might need an in-cab switch that controls a solenoid that controls winch power

 

Thanks for your input guys. I was hoping that I wasn't the only one thinking about that

 

Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries!

 

My new plates

 

Favorite line:

“Let’s not bicker and argue about who killed who”

 

There’s too many to pick a favorite from that movie for me

 

Maybe late to the game but here's my thoughts on the matter of the extra winch solenoid. My theory has always come down to the KISS method:

1 - newer quality motor starters have redundant contacts to control both the positive and ground to the winch motor, thereby halfing the probability of a run-away winch.
2 - Adding a second solenoid adds more connectors and wire which will cause more voltage drop thereby causing more current in the winch circuit, along with the possibility of hot-spots.
3 - Adding the second solenoid doubles the probability of failure of your winch.
4 - If my winch ever runs away, I would just cut the synthetic line with a knife; the motor draws very little current with no load on it. (this one would obviously not be applicable if you had standard cable winch)

How many people get shot every day, do you wear a bulletproof vest everywhere you go? The probability of failure is VERY small IMO and I want the fewest amount of components inline for a winch, because if I need it I want it to work.

 

What is 125?

 

How many times he changes his mind during each of his projects.

 

KISS method makes sense. You make a lot of sense for that matter as well!
In case of failure, solenoid could be removed from the circuit with ease. Unfortunally tere will be a minimal los on additional connections. BUT...
There is no actual but about it. As stated before, we put a lot of unnecessary modifications into our trucks (which doesn't really matter here), and my truck is a DD and will be for at least a while, aaand I drive in NY. So, I'll feel a lot better knowing that there is no power in those fuseless wires going into my winch in case of faul play or an acident, so there is that.

 

What do people like to say in this thread?

“If you know, you know”?

 

I know your feeling there, certainly nobody wants their truck to burn to the ground especially if you're not even using the winch lol. I would offer as an alternative an appropriately sized fuse instead of a solenoid. Here in the northeast, corrosion and rust is not our friend and I feel any part that requires movement like a solenoid or motor is not immune to these elements.

I would recommend something along the lines of an ANL fuse, sized at 1.15 the LRA of the winch motor. Another thought that just came into my head as I was typing was that if you were to have a "runaway" winch, there is also a possibility of the redundant solenoid contacts melting thereby making that solenoid pretty much useless.


https://www.aimscorp.net/inline-fuse-kit-500-amp-fuse-and-holder.html

or

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5503-Block/dp/B076GZPSVL

 

Inline fuse seems like the simplest solution. 400A fuse should be more than enough for most recoveries. Stick a few extras in the glovebox and a 500 if you’re feeling brave.

 

Listen.

Don’t tell me how to live my life Bruh.