Powering an Audio Control LC2i from an amp and sub questions

Hoping someone who is knowledgeable about this can chime in in.

I want to add a sub but I'm not interested in either removing the rear storage bins, cutting them out or going with something like the kicker hideaway.

So far I'm leaning towards one of the following: The JL Audio 8" micro sub in a ported box with the built in amp
http://www.jlaudio.com/acp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93330

Or this pioneer sub

Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10", 1.200 Watts Shallow-Mount Subwoofer

https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-S...656&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+subwoofer+box+10"

in this box

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-UDSW...90SK8QXR3Y2&psc=1&refRID=V2BWVSREB90SK8QXR3Y2

with an amp

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-UDSW...90SK8QXR3Y2&psc=1&refRID=V2BWVSREB90SK8QXR3Y2

Either way I'm pretty sure I want to use an Audio Control Lc2i to restore the bass the Entune unit rolls off as volumes get above 30 or 35.

So a few questions

1. Does anyone have any direct experience with the JL and/or the Pioneer subs above and if so can you comment on how they sound? I am looking at both because I've seen reviews on Crutchfield and Amazon from people who claim both fit inside the passenger storage bin in 2016 and up Tacomas.

2. Instead of building a T harness to send a signal to the LC2i - can I just use t taps to grab a signal from the rear speakers to send to the LC2i or is that a bad idea? If it's a bad idea is it worth getting something like the ********* "add a sub" wiring harness? How else should I be thinking about getting a signal to the Lc2i?

3. Either the JL self powered sub or the Pioneer amp will need an 8 gauge power supply. Assuming I run that from the battery and fuse it properly is there any reason I can't power the LC2i from the amp (ie: run a power lead from where the 8 gauge is connected to the amp to the LC2i) or do I have to run a separate power supply from the battery to the LC2i. I would look to ground both the Lc2i and the amp to the same grounding location.

PS - already did the subaru tweeter and kicker door speaker upgrades.

My goal/hope is to add some low end to the already decent mid bass I'm getting from the kickers. I realize whatever I put in won't have the same punch as some 12" or 15" subs but that's fine.

 

I can only really speak to point #2. This was my application in my 2nd gen: I used posi-taps on the 2 front/2 rear outputs off the back of the head unit run to the lc2i under driver seat, then ran RCAs to a powered sub in the same spot. Lc2i was powered off an ignition only circuit on the dash fuse box using an addd a circuit. Lc2i has like 2 modes of turning on, either by signal from the stereo or being connected to something with accessory power if I recall. Pulling power from the amp may keep it on full time but I’d have to look at the manual again.

Sold mine a while back and now run an aftermarket stereo that has produced higher quality bass from my powered sub that was noticeably better from day 1.

 

See replies in bold

 

Justin - thanks for you feedback. I wish you were closer as I'd have no problem paying you to do the install. I went to a local car audio shop and frankly they didn't seem to want to make a sale - "nothing we have will fit". So I'm likely going to try and do the install myself. I did manage to install a generic pop and lock off of Amazon so I hopefully can do this as well. Do you know which plug and wire in the passenger kick panel have the front right speaker wires? And which is positive and which is negative?

Thanks again.

 

In the passenger kick panel, you’re looking for this connector. This bundle of wires going up into the white opening you can see on the top right, which leads into the door.

I believe the wire colors are
+ grey (pin 6)
- purple (pin 7)

 

Awesome thanks very much

 

I am in the same position as you where I need to install some kind of subwoofer package. I’ve been stalking a few sites for the last few nights. Plenty of options and opinions out there. I didn’t see any measurements for the speaker boxes you have listed above. Have you looked at the Cerwin-Vega VPAS10? It is a 10” sub/amp combo which dimensionally will fit in the rear passenger compartment. Here are the dimensions 2.56H x 9.65W x 13.58D. I’ve read about 70 reviews and people love it. I know companies change, but Cerwin-Vega used to be quality products.

Maybe @destin_meeks can shed some light on this. He’s been an audio guru for quite a few other threads.

 

I’ve already posted a few times in this thread

 

This thread answered my question about powering an LC7i. Good to know I can just grab juice/remote/ground from the nearby amp!

 

Check out this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-speakers-sub-amp-and-the-spacial-dilemma-a-jbl-story.447977/

 

I have the JL Audio 8" sub and I freaking love it. Its super tight, goes WAY low and extremely clean. It does NOT boom, but the bass is solid at all volume levels. If you want boom, you need a bigger woofer, but for my purposes, the 8" has more than enough bass in my Access Cab. Music of choice is Yacht Rock, 80's retro alternative and EDM, specifically trance, techno and progressive house. I'm a former nightclub and Rave party DJ, so I like my beats.

Highly recommend this sub!