What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

The tire calculator thing says it’s barely a 33”


(Look at this big ass slash pile, shit would burn for days)

I think I a cheap spacer lift would be a lot easier than a body lift

 

That's not what this one says:
https://www.crawlpedia.com/tire_size_converter.htm

 

Erm wut




I’m sure every manufacture/ tire is a little different anyway, so it doesn’t reslly matter

 

That's wierd, it gave me different results. I must have fatfingered it

 

Some people think the tall skinny’s look weird but I also think most people that end up with them, like them.

I think a temp spacer would be way easier than a body lift, even more so if you plan on ditching whatever you go with after you sas

 

When I did the SAS on my S10 (granted it's an entirely different platform, but still) I went with a 2" BL to clear the back of the front fenders at stuff. I would have cut, but that area is also the firewall/floorboard.

If I added a 1" BL to the Tacoma, I'd leave it in place after the SAS build.

BL would be far easier, as it's just about a dozen bolts (ok and some grounds) and can be accomplished relatively easily with bottle jacks and cribbing. Also, installation won't require an alignment.

The far greater concern will be the steering geometry after the SAS- but that is easily addressable via Trailgear (for example, this: https://www.trail-gear.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/7324/s/steering-kit-sas-tacoma/)

 

255/85r16 is a true 33 in tire




285/75r16 is a popular "33" but is really a 32.8" tire, but close enough to 33

 

Yes, keep reading, we have covered this.... ;P

 

let me have my moment

 

I believe reducing the pinch weld is somewhat an unspoken suggestion after lifting.


Mine required it, as the tires would catch the pinch weld when stuffed and turning.

 

I did for multiple ressons. I got one of Roger Browns, he made some nice wide pucks.

 

i like it. Mind me asking the cost for it?

You can also get the hitch license plate holder. think you'll need some lights for the plates.

 

Ordered a complete set of 5 wheels and tires.

These wheels:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pcw-51-5883f

These tires:
https://www.treadwright.com/collections/filter/products/mt-guard-dog-31-10-5-r15-6ply

I've used the Treadwrights for going on 15+ years now, on 6 different vehicles. In all, about 10 sets of tires among them- never a major defect, nor a blowout. I've had no problems from them whatsoever. I'm particularly a fan of the Kedgegrip feature- they are VERY grippy in the wet.

Not bad for just shy of $900.

 

What killed your alternator, was it the mud?

 

Maybe the "gentle" water crossing?

 

Nice fix! I always admire people that fix the item, rather than just throwing it out and getting a new one.

FYI: those would be the brushes. Commutation is done by the armature rotating via induced EM force.

 

I was just about to say the same, the two zones the brushes ride on, on the armature, are the commutator bars since the alternator has a separately induced field current.

That was a fix I was sorta proud of after the much simpler task of swapping the two alts seemed like it wouldn't work due to design difference between the V6 and I4 alt cases.

 

Well done, gents!

I am about to change to the GM alternator, strictly because it's a simple fix, they're readily available, and I have a spare sitting around from my V8 swap into the S10, when I upgraded that unit.

 

Those are solid units, I really like my Jaguar sourced Denso 120A alt. It is a one wire setup much like the GM ones, and the other two just turn off the battery light. But it is self exciting unlike the stocker so it's pretty reliable and it doesnt vary voltage with the ECU either, it is internally regulated and strives for 14.2-14.8 all the time which AGM batteries love. My only gripe with the GM (bosch style) alts is the remans are so often poorly done that they seem to wear out fast, we've swapped a few on the trail before.

 

Looks like you've looked into this more than I have. I may have to ping you when I do the build.

I am aiming to be able to fit a larger framed alternator into the engine bay, (I think, but don't quote me, it's an AD244 series as opposed to the CS130 I originally mentioned as being stock from the 89 S-series). I know I was able to bolt it into the S10 with addition of a few washers as a spacer, and changeout of the plug. It does have a larger diameter, but not convinced it can't be made to fit.

At any rate, the stock alternator in a Tacoma (3.4) is around 70A. Stock S-series range from 70 to 119A. Stock 01 C1500 are around 130A. Obviously you'd want to do the Big three first, even if keeping the stock bits.