BenWA's 2005+ Power Sliding Rear Window Quick Install Kit

I'm confused....where is the link?

 

Here is a link to the thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-sliding-rear-window-install.589615/

 

This is a fun project! Though I have not gotten it to run but one time. The one time it pulled the wire out of the bracket, my tension wasn’t good anyways. Re routed it tonight with almost full tension... clicked the switch and nothing took place ‍♂️. All your guys info has been awesome. Sooner or later I will get this accomplished. If anyone is looking to do this but scared because your mechanical skill level is low... don’t be mine is very low as well and I’m almost there.

 

Any have problems blowing a fuse after connected? I can’t seem to get it to work. I’m tapped into dr rear window 20 slot

 

If you install the add-a-fuse backwards the two fuses will be in series instead of parallel which increases the current through the oem fuse.

 

thanks that was the issue

 

The add-a fuse has two blades that go into the panel. The blade on the opposite end from the wire feeds both fuses and should be installed into the hot buss. The other blade reconnects the oem fuse to its intended circuit and the wire connects the added fuse to the new circuit. The wire is offset and lines up with the new fuse slot making the other fuse slot the oem replacement. One way to determine which direction the add-a-fuse should be installed is to install it with the new fuse installed but without the oem fuse installed. If it doesn’t work turn the add-a-fuse around. If the oem circuit still has power then you have the fuse in the wrong slot. On my second gen the top row of fuses has the hot buss in the upper terminals which orients the wire to point at the floor. It’s probably a bad idea to put 2 high amp fuses in an add-a-fuse, the current limit on the fuse box terminals probably isn’t much more than 30A. If you need more than a couple extra fuses or some high current fuses it’s a better idea to install an auxiliary panel and feed it directly from the battery. Always hot and ignition hot only are both still options. My own choice is to limit taps to power necessary for switching relays but the power those relays controls comes either from the battery or an auxiliary fuse panel rather than a tap.