Turbo BS Thread

if its an auto gears dont matter, its just the difference in tire sizes

 

What’s that kit do?

Edit:
Found it
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?category_id=149&product_id=253

 

He's a manual.

 

So... dumb question probably.

What happens to the secondary air injection pump that makes the magical emissions wind into the exhaust?

It doesn't look like any kit out there retains it, so do you just roll around with neverending CEL or is there some sort of delete/simulator out there?

EDIT: I'm speaking of the 2TR but I think the V6 has it too...

 

There's a company that makes a bypass unit. There's a thread on the forum about it, but it doesn't sound like it's all that reliable and that their CS isn't that great either.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...pass-kit-2012-4-0-updated-21-oct-2016.394629/

 

No CEL showing when removed and running Haltech

 

Ah so that's a standalone EMS right? ... I don't know how much more invasive the 3rd gen is but as far as I can tell, it's kind of a gen "2.5" setup with less of the ECU witchery of the 3.5 V6, but still a lot of cross integration with stuff like the automatic transmission.

 

Stock ECU is in there.

 

My original thought, going turbo, was to lower the ratio in the diff to offset the super torquey 1st and 2nd gear. This would be again offset by the power increase from the motor as well.

BUT, theres always another way. The T56 is a solid option if you can afford it, but the 340 with shift kit is fool proof.. I am hoping to maybe one day, getting a G force or other comparable dog box when I inevitably grenade my entire drivetrain

 

This is a good read about the A340.
I'm curious if the "TT" Supra A340 is used in the 2nd Gen Tacoma since it has 23 splines and the other A340s used 21.
http://victorylibrary.com/Toyota/A340E-c.htm

And it's also good to know how easy it is to convert one of these to 4x4

 

I've got the truck running and took it for a drive. What sensors should I be keeping an eye on? I've read multiple places that 5 psi is fine on the factory ecu. However I'm a little bit confused. If closed loop wants to see stoic all the time, aren't I going to run lean while in boost in closed loop?

 

It slows spool up and the truck will feel unresponsive. Could just downshift and get the rpms up.

 

You wont run lean; your ECU will continue to run at about 14.7 AFR in closed loop, even with the extra air.

When boosting, you always want to monitor the AFR readings for leanout, not an option in my book. Stock AFR sensor is wideband but generally you wan an after market sensor for a more accurate and precise feedback. OEM sensor data should be available on OBD-II software

If its running lean, injector duty cyle should be checked. This also should be available on OBD-II software.

You will also want to monitor the knock sensor frequency feedback to make sure detonation is not advancing. If it is, you'll want an ECU to tune in more fuel or just dial back the boost. I don't know if an OBD-II app can monitor the knock sensor output so you may need to get a piggy back or standalone ECU to monitor the knock frequecy

5psi should be ok but a piggy back or standalone is always recomended when running boost...

 

Is 14.7 not considered lean with 5psi?

Im using the torque app and can see afr though the refresh rate seems to be once a second, I was hoping it would be faster. A real wideband is on the list for the future.

The app does have a knock test plug in. How accurate it is I'm not sure.

 

Well yes you can argue it is but technically lean is anything under 14.7 I think.

The knock plugin will let you know when you are pinging but that's too late. You generally want to graph the frequency to prevent knock before it happens.

 

Under boost, regardless of how many pounds you're pushing (ALL OF ITTT), 14.7 is lean.
You want to be somewhere between 11.0 and 11.5 when in boost. This is where having a piggyback or standalone comes in, since you can tune closed-loop.

 

Not exactly true. You are trying to maintain combustion temperatures. The extra fuel is to soak up heat and keep your cylinders running cool. If you go too rich on low boost, you may drop ignition temps below what they should be causing ignition efficiency to fall.

Technically, if you want to do it right, you need to monitor knock sensor frequency and you can deduce where/when ignition is advancing and adjust fuel delivery as needed. Running 11AFR with 5 psi of boost might be a little over doing it.

 

From reading Gadgets UTune, open loop happens when under a certain engine load percentage. Is every motor different or is there a set percent that it'll change from closed to open? Any way to trick it into going into open loop sooner?

I'm starting to think I'm going to need a piggyback sooner than anticipated. My truck previously struggled to get around at 9000ft with all the weight I've added. I feel like I'm going to be in boost quite a bit just going from A to B but I don't think it will be in open loop all the time. I guess once I get some more time driving I'll know for sure.

 

Every engine is different depending on how the ECU is designed. Each family of vehicles should be about the same though. Its a combination, I believe, of throtle position and RPM. Some OBDII software will display open and closed loop IIRC but they generally cost money. Torque app does not have show open or closed loop but does show AFR's, however, it uses the stock sensor inputs and I don't know how accurate or precise the stock sensor is. Its 'wideband' you should get accurate information.

If you have an AFR gauge, you will know you are in open loop when your AFR's go lean (mine drop in the 12-13's).

 

Torque does display open or closed loop. Seems to be accurate based on deceleration it goes open, when on the gas it closes. Just not sure when it opens on acceleration yet.