Alabama thread!

it's a darker blue, so you're close.

don't worry, it's all coming out.

 

Well thank you sir.

 

LR fan should be a double switch - light and fan control. Entry light should be its own switch.
why should it be a double switch? the light/fan has pull cords on it to control each one, or I might even get one that has a remote. the switch only provides the power, then the cords/remote control the options. For modernization, you should really consider a light switch and a fan switch with speed control on the wall. Pull cords and finding a remote is not a convenience.

Are the green circles your can lights? If so, you are going to have significant shadowing when you are working on the counters. The can lights should be located over the front edge of the countertop, not the middle of the walkways.
the green circles over the island are pendant lights. the other 5 circles in the kitchen are can lights. the can lights have a lot of throw and should not cast shadows since nothing will be blocking them. You will be what is blocking them while you are standing at the counter.

 

I disagree on the switch for the LR fan. I have never been in a house that had that control on the wall, and it has never been an inconvenience. Every fan in my house is controlled by pull cords.

I understand that I would block the can lights. The only counter space is by the sink (can light above sink, and depending on which side you're standing at the opposing can light will provide light) and then same situation at the island. The fume hood itself has lights and there are pendant lights as well. These aren't can lights that only shoot a beam of light straight down lol

 

I've never lifted my truck with a fork lift, so I can't speak to that necessarily but with all the various mounting locations plus the use of square tubing for the main structure of the sliders, I'd feel comfortable lifting the truck with them.

My mounts are located on the vertical plane of the frame as well as the lower horizontal plane so all loads seen from forces exerted in the up and down directions on the sliders will be evenly distributed on multiple parts of your frame. To top that off, I use all 1/2 inch Grade 8 bolts with 3/16 thick washers at all bolt hole locations on my sliders.

 

lol see above. there will only be two portions of overhead cabinets, on each side of the sink. there will be plenty of light at all countertops even with me standing at them. all of you 8 foot tall 4 foot wide plywood-like MF'ers needs to worry about your counter lighting lol

 

Do we need to return to the "before" version of my kitchen and see the lighting in there?

 

haha thank you for your opinions, I'll comment/answer the best I can to each line.

You're going to hit the disposer switch instead of the DR light switch a lot - if not you, your guests. Reaching over a counter is not convenient for a light switch.
I could possibly do two separate switches instead of in the same plate to prevent hitting one and not the other, but I was trying to minimize the amount of switch plates I have on the wall. I don't think reaching over the counter is a big deal, it's not like a 4 foot stretch lol
Minimizing switch plates is a good thing. However, it is an odd place for that light switch.

Were it me, I'd think about adding a 3-way for the DR by the front door (porch light). Put the second switch in a location convenient to the DR (3 or 4 feet up the wall, closer to the DR).
Putting the DR light by the front door seems weird to me because that's SO FAR AWAY. I would never want to turn the light on from that spot.
I get that. But, are you keeping this house forever, or selling it one day?

I'd move the pendant light switch to either next to the sink or to the island itself.
I mentioned to the contractor that the pendant light switch can be in the island cabinets, I like that option too.

LR fan should be a double switch - light and fan control. Entry light should be its own switch.
why should it be a double switch? the light/fan has pull cords on it to control each one, or I might even get one that has a remote. the switch only provides the power, then the cords/remote control the options.
The switch for the fan can control both light intensity and fan speed. Pull cords are so 1980's...
Remotes are fine - except when you can't find it.

Are the green circles your can lights? If so, you are going to have significant shadowing when you are working on the counters. The can lights should be located over the front edge of the countertop, not the middle of the walkways.
the green circles over the island are pendant lights. the other 5 circles in the kitchen are can lights. the can lights have a lot of throw and should not cast shadows since nothing will be blocking them.
The cans, in the position you have them, will cause shadows - independent of the throw of the light. You see, you will be what blocks the light, when the can light is behind your head.

yes, granite. will most likely be LED lights in everything.
Halogen bulbs put out a much warmer light. LEDs are close, but still not the same.

Also, you want a dimmer switch on the can lights. And make sure your LED lights are dimmable.

 

For the cool people that like golf like @rmepilot this is for you. For all the others....1 you suck for not liking golf, and 2 keep scrolling assholes! After I made my equipment deliver yesterday I decided to say screw work the rest of the day (it was already 1 and I get off at 2 and refused to go back through base traffic) and drove out to Madison Golf Center. For the past 2 years I have silently been looking for a good set of Mizuno irons but with them being so rare in left handed I had given up home. Flash forward back to yesterday and Ill be damned! They have a 2017 used set of Mizuno MP-25's, Project X 6.0 shafts, and almost brand new Lamkin grips! Price tag was $550 but managed to finagle them down since I had some doubts on the stiffness of the shafts (not really but kinda, maybe). $408 out the door and I have me a practically brand new set of my dream set of irons. The far left club marks is from me test hitting them on those stupid green mats

 

there shouldn't be any flexing just by weight of the truck, if it does flex you shouldn't be noticeable. Frames are designed to flex somewhat.

youtube "bolt on slider test" or something along those lines, this one company lifted several different sliders on i believe IIRC a 4runner and dropped them at various heights on a boulder. That was interesting.

 

Really?

Really?

I have fan/light control switches in my house, that I built 22 years ago!

 

I will support this more so now that all the "new build" homes, my house included, all have double light/fan switches nowadays. My house actually had them pre run without actually having ceiling fans in my spare bedrooms. When I switched out the light fixtures and added fans, all I had to do was connect the fan control at the fixture and the switch worked immediately.

 

Those hockey sticks should have a longer end.

 

Well aware of it. Like Blue Whale encouraging kids to (sometimes successfully) to commit suicide. Originator/perpetrators should be drawn and quartered (literally).

 

You're going to hit the disposer switch instead of the DR light switch a lot - if not you, your guests. Reaching over a counter is not convenient for a light switch.
I could possibly do two separate switches instead of in the same plate to prevent hitting one and not the other, but I was trying to minimize the amount of switch plates I have on the wall. I don't think reaching over the counter is a big deal, it's not like a 4 foot stretch lol
Minimizing switch plates is a good thing. However, it is an odd place for that light switch.
If you can identify a better location for the switch for the DR let me know. By the front door, in my opinion, is not a better location.

Were it me, I'd think about adding a 3-way for the DR by the front door (porch light). Put the second switch in a location convenient to the DR (3 or 4 feet up the wall, closer to the DR).
Putting the DR light by the front door seems weird to me because that's SO FAR AWAY. I would never want to turn the light on from that spot.
I get that. But, are you keeping this house forever, or selling it one day?
Selling it, but as a buyer, I would also think a switch that far away is weird as hell.

I'd move the pendant light switch to either next to the sink or to the island itself.
I mentioned to the contractor that the pendant light switch can be in the island cabinets, I like that option too.

LR fan should be a double switch - light and fan control. Entry light should be its own switch.
why should it be a double switch? the light/fan has pull cords on it to control each one, or I might even get one that has a remote. the switch only provides the power, then the cords/remote control the options.
The switch for the fan can control both light intensity and fan speed. Pull cords are so 1980's...
Remotes are fine - except when you can't find it.
I get that pull cords are 1980s, but go into Lowe's and like 95% of the fan/lights still have pull cords. It works, and it's easy.

Are the green circles your can lights? If so, you are going to have significant shadowing when you are working on the counters. The can lights should be located over the front edge of the countertop, not the middle of the walkways.
the green circles over the island are pendant lights. the other 5 circles in the kitchen are can lights. the can lights have a lot of throw and should not cast shadows since nothing will be blocking them.
The cans, in the position you have them, will cause shadows - independent of the throw of the light. You see, you will be what blocks the light, when the can light is behind your head.
there are lights located in every position that would cause concern (over the island and the sink can light). I am not doing under cabinet light as I feel with only two portions of upper cabinets on each side of the sink not much light will be blocked. See photo of previous kitchen lol

yes, granite. will most likely be LED lights in everything.
Halogen bulbs put out a much warmer light. LEDs are close, but still not the same.

Also, you want a dimmer switch on the can lights. And make sure your LED lights are dimmable.
I do plan for them to be dimmable.



See if you follow this, picture the sink wall, in order to get the DR light and disposal switch separate but not have too many switch plates.

in this order, left to right:

door, deck switch, kitchen can lights switch, GFCI outlet, sink can switch, window, disposal switch, GFCI, DR light switch

yes really. Any house I've been in and needed to flip the switch was a single power switch. I'm not disagreeing that new styles have double switches or whatever, just that my experience has never had that.

I personally would hate to have 5+ switches on one plate, it looks tacky AF

 

simply because there will already be 4 switches in that plate, 5 would look even worse.

in my experience and preference the fans always stay ON and the light is the variable. pulling the cord for the light is just as easy as flipping a switch. easier even, because the layout of the living room you'd have to walk behind the couch to go get to the switch or you can just stand up and pull the cord and be done.

 

New Member here! Im from Cullman, and just grabbed a used DCLB Off road a couple weeks ago. Looking forward to getting out on some trails and camping.

 

welcome to the thread!

 

I used a hi-lift jack to lift mine in the garage one time (for those of you that haven't seen before).

 

Yes it was